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HybridZ

fusion

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Posts posted by fusion

  1. I got this diff as an extra when I bought my 280z.  I was told it was an R200 LSD.  I am going to sell it but want to be sure I know what it is.  Can anyone help identify this?

     

    Also, what is it worth?

     

     

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  2. I drilled out all the spot welds on my spare tire well on my 76 280z and removed it to make room for a different gas tank.  It is in mint condition, no rust at all.  What is something like this worth?

     

     

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  3. 2 hours ago, grannyknot said:

    I'm still using them and they work well enough, ideally it would be nice to find a lift that pushed up with a bit more force but the lifts are so small that there isn't a lot of selction in the size. They do give you a lot of extra room in front the the Rad support for cold air intakes.

    Here is the long version, page 8, post #191, https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/50240-thinking-about-installing-an-bmw-m6-engine-in-my-z/?&page=8#comments

     

    Thanks man. So the struts you are using are 43lbs, would you recommend like 50lbs would be optimal?

  4. Has anyone ever installed a double din dash unit in an s30?  Looks like a 9 or 10" unit would fit really nice and you get bluetooth, audio, backup camera, gps, etc.

    I am trashing the HVAC and was thinking this could fit in that spot perfectly.

  5. On my 76 280z I am putting in a turbo 5.3 and the FMIC will force me to remove the tension rods.   I was just planning to use a prop rod, but I stumbled across a couple of old threads that discussed using gas struts.  This would be really nice if it worked and wasn't super expensive.

     

    https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/57247-hood-lift-shocks/

     

    https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/91439-hood-strut-conversion-for-s30/

     

     

    Most of the links and pictures are dead.  Has anyone else done this?

     

     

     

  6. I am going to be installing BC coilovers on my 76 280z.  This question is for the fronts only.  I have seen/read a lot of install information.  It seems some people fully disassemble the strut, spring, gland nut, etc and then cut the tube.  Others just cut right through without disassembling anything.  Would be really nice to not have to deal with the spring compression and gland nut hassle.  Any thoughts?

     

    Thanks

  7. Got a link to those spacers?  I couldn't find them for some reason on T3 site.

     

    Edit:  Are these what you are talking about?  https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/280z/evolved-roll-center-adjusters-datsun-240260280z

     

    Does it move the spindle outboard at the sake of increased negative camber?  Is it possible to get back in spec with coilover adjustments?

     

     

     

     

     

  8. So I am building a 76 280z.  I will be running Marugen ZG flares on all 4 corners.  I have BC coilovers.  I will be running 15" wheels.  I have measured in the back and for a 275/50r15 on a 15x8 wheel a +35mm offset fits really well.  15" wheel options aren't great, but I found a wheel that works that I really like.  So now I was looking at the front to see how a 15x8 +35 would fit.  Mocked up 225, 235 and 245 tires.  Definitely need to move the wheel outboard by about 35-50mm to sit close to flush with the flare. (Still need to get more precise measurements)

     

    The rear is already 5x114.3, and the front is still stock 4x114.3.  I haven't bought them yet but wheels in question are Rays Gram Lights:

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    I am mulling my options.  I really like the wheels and would really like to make them work on the front.   

     

    Since I need to convert to 5x114 anyway, I could get a pair of quality wheel adapters that go from 4x114 to 5x114.  They make them in the thickness range I need and it would be a simple install.  It would kill 2 birds with one stone and be the cheapest/easiest option.

     

    I've read that as long as spacers/adapters are either hubcentric or lugcentric and are installed correctly, it's not an issue to use, even at big thicknesses.

     

    Another potential option would be to install different hubs on the front.  I believe the 300zx moves the mounting surface outboard (is it like a 25mm??).  Probably wouldn't be enough, but maybe then I could run a thin spacer to make up the difference.  Much more work and expense.

     

     

    Any other hubs that would work?

     

    Any other ideas/comments?

     

    What's the widest wheel/tire combo that generally works on the front of a 280z?

     

    Thanks

  9. 4 minutes ago, gnosez said:

    Threaded 5/8 or 16mm bolts have been used for decades by SCCA and non-SCCA racers and track folks. I just sold a set of RCAs from an ex-SCCA car that was raced in the late 70s and 80s that had bolts installed back then. I didn't invent the use of a bolt and the first one I used came with the T3 rear control arms some 12 or more years ago. Since then I have replaced the bolts a few times and I have yet to hear of anyone reporting an issue with the use of said bolts. Once again, I understand why Datsun thought the locking pin was necessary I'm just saying my anecdotal experience with stock spindle pin bolts that have not loosened  on any of my Zs nor have I found any on the dozen or so RCA arms I have collected over the years.

     

     

    What did you use for a nut (nylock, lock washer, metal locking, double nut,etc), and what did you torque to?

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