240Z_Master

Alright, it's pretty easy to wire up the alternator... I did all of this while removing the plug also... On the alternator there is a sticker, and it should show a diagram for "L" and "S". 1) The White/Black wire from the old alternator should be connected to the "L" 2) The Yellow wire from the old alternator should be connected to "S" 3) The power is obvious and goes to the one with the 12mm nut on the alternator 4) The ground goes to the back of the alternator As for the diode, "As posted from Bastaad525" Looking at the connector that used to go to the regulator, there should be five or possibly six wires going into it. You only need to worry about four of these. First, you need to bridge the plain white wire, to the plain yellow wire (though on my car the wires were so aged that they both looked yellow !!!) using the jumper wire. Then you're going to use your diode to bridge the black w/white stripe wire, to the white w/black stripe wire. Now, the diode has a greyish stripe on one end of it, you want that end with the stripe to go into the white w/black stripe wire. Dont worry if you get this wrong it wont hurt anything. The diode acts like a check valve, allowing current to only flow one way... what happens without it is the alternator will keep back-feeding current to the ignition system causing the car to keep running after being turned off. http://www.zcarcreations.com/howto/voltreg.htm

I never have anything work for me on the first try.... lol.

Sure thing!

It sounds like $hit btw because the O2 sensor was just dangling in back of the turbo, I just was too anxious to get it started and zip tied the O2 sensor... Tommorow the downpipe gets made, I have to find some damn M6x1.0 fittings for the boost controller, and do a few more things.... but MSA is on Sunday, and I am running it down to the wire! Oh yeah, someone remind me to put my registration sticker on my car, it still says 2005 and I have the 2007 sticker on my desk, lol.

Does this sound funny to you? http://gripjunkies.larrychendesign.com/misc/Start.wmv April 27th http://gripjunkies.larrychendesign.com/misc/Start2.wmv April 29th http://gripjunkies.larrychendesign.com/misc/Rev.wmv May 2nd http://gripjunkies.larrychendesign.com/misc/BOV.wmv May 2nd

BTW, the Z32 N/A Flywheel has a different bolt pattern compared to the RB motors... The clutch you can use, but not the Flywheel.

Do a search, I posted something that Myron wrote out earlier.

Yea, I plan on it.

Okay, bringing back a thread from the past, but I figured an update would be nice.

Maybe he painted it! Haha, or I was just assuming most RB26's stateside were R32 units. BTW, off topic, HKS does make some schweet looking valve covers.

I might go to Radio Shack tommorow and buy a 3.3K, 2.2K ohm resistor and test it out... couldn't hurt. They're only like 99 cents per pack of 5.

Maybe the thought of having a brand new one from JUN is a lot nicer than balancing a 15 year old piece of fatigued metal?

The first picture above is this... The other picture I think is the air regulator? I basically want to remove it. (And also because I forgot how to hook it all up)

I figured this is my Idle Air Control Valve (I'm not even sure on that, but I assume it is). And this is my Air Regulator Valve for the A/C? (Can I remove this?) Can I get rid of the second one? I'm not sure if I need it or not.

Now that's just unfair to have such a huge trailer for an iddy bitty motor.

So I got a question, on the Consult Connector, I have the four wires for the top left, but the two on the right on top, the CHX and IGN, are those needed because there is no wire out of the harness for the IGN, and the CHX doesnt have a wire coming from the harness.

GReddy Plenum for the RB26 is cheaper than the RB25 I beleieve. RB26 should be like 50 bucks cheaper than the RB25. But I think it also bolts to the TBI plates instead of a whole replacement. I'm not sure and don't remember.

Take it off on the trailer, lol

Maybe you should man up, and just get the RB26?

You could be right, but I'm going to hook it up anyway, and recheck the pins to see in fact if the Power FC does have the pins needed.