randy 77zt

send manifold to extrudehone-saves time and gets to all places inside.

5.4 is taller.but spark plugs are in the intake menifold and its C-O-P-coil on plug.engine has a rear sump and pan is flat in front.would run better with cams from a 4.6 bullit mustang engine.i work as a tech for a ford dealer.

my car is a daily driver/open track road course car.on a good day it keeps up with some trailered in race cars.but it rides rough on the street so i dont think i would build another car like it again.i out ran a z race car at laguna on an open track day.but my car has so many modifications that it wasnt fair.check out the rules in a scca rule book about moving suspension mounting points.car is very extreme for a daily driver but i like the handling.i drive 50 miles a day biut it is all freeway.

check the local pick&pulls for a blower off of a early 90's ford tbird sc.but then you will have to build all parts.but think of the wow factor at the next motorsport show.

on a trip last summer i got 24 mpg with the ac on.i have a 77 with 81zxt engine.i run a 3.7lsd with a 82 na trans.

the 3.36 gears will load the motor up more and keep boost up.i have 1 of those little plastic air regulator valves on my car and i had to put another valve to bleed off some air behind it.now it works good.the air regulator valve wont work correctly with out some flow through it.i got the valve at lowe's hardware.i dont need all those riceboy electronic gadget boxes.

to check for head gaskit problems i hook up 1 of those back flush tee fittings into heater hose and leave the radiator cap on .then pull the plugs and see where the water is coming from.

sorry to hear about your problems with new efi onboard.a suggestion-when you get the motor fixed have the injectors flow tested .i had rc engineering do a set for me.they sent back a printout with the injectors.i can get a borescope if you want to look into the cylinder but i think it is too late.when you start to make big horsepower your cushion for error gets very small.that is why most people recommend set up of efi on a dyno.a combination of a lean cylinder and a bad tank of gas on a hot day will do it.just because injecters are new does not mean you could have got one that is not up to spec.i would suspect injector on #2 cylinder is lean.

i have an 87 r200 lsd in my 77 but i just swapped the cover and pinion flange and bolted it in.i put ford synthetic axle oil in it and it chattered on sharp turns.so i put the ford friction modifier in it and it works perfect now-hooks up both wheels and no chatter.got mine from local pick&pull for $65.

try to find an issue of popular hot rodding .the january 2002 issue.there is an article about a 1300 hp daily driver twin turbo c4 vette.article is pretty complete.car even has equal length headers feeding twin buick aftermarkit grand national turbos.car stiil has the a/c too.engine was built to breathe at high rpm and has custom ground cam .cars looks stock.a turbo engine doesnt need a lumpy cam and is quiet.all the better to kill stupid honduh's with.

there are adaptors that go from metric flare to #3 an.they are made by dana/weatherhead .there are adaptors for the calipers too.then i used an off the shelf 12" earls #3 steel braided line.earls makes some of the adaptors too.i used the metric flare adaptors in the rear but i have willwood calipers in rear so i just used an earls 1/8 pipe x #3 an 90 fitting on calipers.lines have been on the road for 70000 miles -no problems.maybe some of the guys that sell the brake kits could get the adaptors and lines and bag them up and sell line kits.

some of those injectors are single point /throttle body injectors-that is why they are big.the injectors on my merc 2.5 efi 260 hp boat engine are 50lb injectors and have and fit like oem nissan injectors-they have little short hoses on them.

one of the salesmen at the ford dealer where i work bought a new cobra -but is is a convertable.even though i work at a ford dealer i would by a new z06 vette-that mustang gained 300 lbs with the blower.they had to put an iron block,forged rods,forged pistons to hopefully make it stay together.the guy already wants me to put headrs and exhaust on it-you have to pull the front subframe to get the headers in.i like to go to the track-like laguna or thunderhill.a mustang will never handle /drive like a vette.the front is too heavy.

the local pick&pull has lots of diffs cheap.i dont bother repairing parts-just go get more $50 diffs.except i dont want to break my 87 300zxt limited slip.havent found 1 since i got mine.

i had one of those honduh guys want me to race him out of a light.he lit up the front so hard i asked him when he was going to go.a turbo z with a 88 300zxt limited slip doesnt spin-it leaves hard.

i am a tech for a ford dealer so i know all about recalls.most of the time the problem is a bad run of parts.alot of parts are manufactured by subcontractors.a few bad valves with metalurgy problems will show up after car is run for a while.as far as checking for over revs you can thank your federal government for obd2.i forget what the number is but i have set that code in more than a few mustangs.the next problem is the factory warrenty times the techs are paid to do the repairs.never enough.plus the greedy golf playing sob dealer ship owner that pays the salesman 60 to80 thou a year and only wants to pay the tech $15/hour.you dont get rocket scientists for $15 /hour.buy only what you can fix your self.

i have 3" mandrel bent exhaust on my turbo z and it only took 2 90 degree bends.if you have a chop saw and a mig welder get the bends from summit and do it your self.the muffler shops around my house do so much custom work its cheap so it isnt worth doing it your self even if you can.

the rising rate fuel pressure regulators are a band aid .best bet is to install some kind of user programmable efi and bigger injectors.injectors are a generic part.places like jwt buy them in bulk from a bosch or lucas distributor and mark them up.do the math on your injector size needed.if you want to try a rising rate regulator i have one new in box for sale.if you put bigger injectors with stock ecm it will run rich-the milliseconds of on time at a certian rpm will remain the same as programmed at the factory.but fuel amount will be increased at all times.i would not spend money on an ecu that has to be sent to somebody for reprogramming-then you are at their mercy to get it tuned correctly.like the idea of a car sitting in you drive way with no ecu-i dont.

p90 has better ports but a huge combustion chamber for turbo.a ported p79 would be better on a na motor.i wouldnt machine a p90 down that far-you would have to put shims under the cam towers.

anybody that runs injectors from a wrecking yard with out sending them out to get cleaned/flow tested is risking engine damage.if you get a partially plugged injector on a turbo engine you will melt a piston.back in late 70s they didnt put injector cleaner in the gas.i changed a lot of 280 z exhaust manifolds that were cracked-it was from uneven exhaust gas temps from partially plugged injectors.a set of 550cc rx7 injectors would be worth the $25 each for the clean/test.if you are using 30lb ford injectors you can get a set of 8 for $200 in a mustang mag new.i sent a set to rc engineering for a car i swapped a chevy tpi motor into and they worked like new and came back with a printout on the flow.all were with in %5.

check your starter amp draw-starter might be worn or the armature might dragging internally.newer model cars have permanent magnet starters that are smaller.lighter,have less current draw.both chevy and ford use the new type starters now and they bolt in place of old style heavy starter.if battery is in back the battery cables need to be thicker gauge because of wire loss.i usually run a ground cable to one of the starter bolts .no such thing as too many grounds.any of those starter/battery chrgers will kick off if used to start a balky car.at the dealership where i work we use batterys on carts.with the newer starters and a fully charged battery car should start easy.also make check ign timing-i have cracked starters with a motor kick back

the tokico illumina struts are worn out after 7+ years and being run on stiff coil overs.found out they have a lifetime warrenty but you have to send them back to tokico with a bill of sale from original vendor.shox.com-rd enterprises sent a copy .but since car is going to be on the track at thunderhill on july 10 i bought another set to install.will have the set that was warrentied for sale.struts are for 741/2 to 78 stock length.will sell for $100 each + shipping.also will have a report on the toy caliper/84zx front brake set up with drilled rotors and porterfield r4 pads.turn 10 at thunderhill kills brakes-110 mph into a 90 degree right hand corner that looks a corner in a residential area.

put me down for 1.please email me with address to send money.dont need it fast-i am storing parts for BIG project.

i have gc camber plates on front and they work but ALL camber plates rattle.i had some cheap carrera camber plates in rear and took them off and sold them.if your car will never be used on a road race course it best to get control arms that adjust from underneath and use 240 upper spring cushions.if you use the car for work the oem rubber bushings are best in rear.the urathene bushings hammered out the unit body under my car.i use my car for work and track use .if local roads are rough try to use 12" coil overs-more travel.if you get car too stiff it wont hook up on a race track but will feel flat on the street.i have had the feeling of fighting an understeering car and somebody behind you in a car that looks like a piece of s@#$ and is out hnadling you at the track.i have lots of parts laying around that sounded like a good idea but didnt work at the track-like 11/8 front sway bar.its now on back of my van.there is nothiong wrong with some body lean-that is weight transfer.follow a late model porsche through the mountains and watch the wheel travel-wheel follows the road with moving the car.

width is 7".offset is close to 0.i will check when i get a chance.i am a tech at a ford dealer.