RB30X

Mines a 73 240Z, I'd like to steer away from the hood prop altogether and just have struts if possible. Problem is they normally sit (when retracted) in the channel running along under the bonnet where the guard bolts on but there isn't enough clearance.

I'd like to achieve a clean front look through the grill which means removing the torsion bars at the front. I'm guessing people that normally do this simply install a rod to hold up the bonnet. Has anyone sucessfully installed bonnet struts to suit the existing bonnet opening fashion (not ZG). I had a spare rear hatch strut and was playing around in the engine bay but could not figure out where it would fit. What are you opinons on this, searching didn't bring much up? cheers

yes

I'm looking for the dimensions one would use to make that shield in the link above. I'm guessing the dimensions of that plate suit all triple carbs. I would buy one but I live at least a million, almost a trillion miles away and noone makes them locally. From the above link: These are custom heat shields that fit to the front of sidedraft carburetors, at the airhorns. The shield covers the front and underside of the carbs to reduce the radiant heat that can cause "heat soak" to the carburetors, thus increasing your fuel tempratures and reducing your performance.

I have search high and low through this forum and got heaps of good pictures but no specs. I want to make a heat sheild for my triple webbers and I've tried tracing the manifold side pattern but this is different to the inlet side pattern. Does anyone have an electronic version of a template or dimensions specs etc to transfer onto some sheet steel for a heat sheild. Thanks

It'll be your dizzy bearing for sure.

After you read all the juicey bits all I ended up doing was running an extra + wire from coil to the terminal on the module and the - which goes to your old dizzy goes on the other module terminal. Getting your rotor in the right position is the hardest bit.

What are those rims specs, they fill the guards nicely.

So I bought one one these carb sync tools and measured each carb. With each throttle set to 0% the resutls were as follows (figures are from the carb sync increments) Cylinder 1 2 3 4 5 6 Throttle 0% 1.0 1.1 1.0 1.8 1.3 1.0 5% 2.0 1.9 2.0 2.8 2.0 1.7 3&4 and 5&6 seem to consistently be different indicating bent shafts and 1&2 were a bit random?? Providing I can still get a low rpm idle, does this much difference really matter with low rpm air flow. I'm guessing the shaft itself would only be a bee's dick out anyway so at cruising or high rpm the difference would be minimal. I will perform some more measurements at higher rpm increments to get more readings from the higher end of the scale of the carb sync tool and see how different they are.

Can you repair a bent shaft??

Hi all, I split open my dizzy a while back to clean up inside and rebuild etc except I've lost the info I had including a parts view or dissasembled pic of an L28 dizzy so I know how to put it all back together correctly. There is one in my 240-260Z manual but it is only for the points dizzy. I've searched through the ignition section with no luck. Can anyone send me the pic I'm chasing? Thanks heaps Tim.Cheetham@sunmetals.com.au

Hmm, can't seem to find one of those over here in Australia. Also, using a Webber tuning reference, it shows an air bypass screw?? My webbers don't seem to have one.

Awesome, thankyou.

Hi, I've just installed some 40mm triple webbers on my 240Z and put the twin SU's into the vault. The car starts and revs fine but I thought I would check and balance the air flow of each carb using a uni-sync, except when I place it over each carb it obviously restricts air into the carb and when you pull it away, excess fuel drips out.........all over the headers? How do you avoid that? I thought about installing a stainless heat sheild which would also catch the fuel but I'd rather no fuel end up outside the engine. Also, at idle these carbs seem to whistle or squeel a little, is this a webber related thing or could something be loose inside? cheers

Ok so I'm from Australia..............G'Day mates. I', trying to find out some info to help me buy a 280Z parts car for my 240Z project. I need somethings cleared up from those in the know on 280Z/ZX's: 1. I've found two 280's, one 280ZX is an 82 model and has an N42 head with an F54 block and has a manual gearbox. The other is an 80 model and has a N42 head with an N42 block? and is also a manual. Which block (N42/F54) is best to use when building a higher compression motor with an older head (2.4L etc)? 2. Do the 280's have R200 diffs and tail and drive shafts etc that suit 240/260Z's? 3. Is the 280 manual better than the 240/260 manuals or are they the same thing? Will either bolt up to either block. Thankyou to those who help me out. I'm still obvioulsy new at this and have been researching head and block numbers all day and my head is about to explode but I'm still not clear on the best combo or what parts are interchangable. If I can get these two cars for cheap and wreck most of the bits off them I might end up getting a 2.8L block for my own rebuild for free CHeers