RB30X

The crack looks to be in a non structural part of the block too so welding will be fine. Make sure you run an oxy over the area to heat it up first or you're weld will not penetrate.

Nice jeans mate. Surely after all the work you're doing you could clean up that cylinder head and engine block. It looks yuk covered in oil. Get your self some truck wash and liberally paint it on everything with a paint brush with the brissles cut down to about 20mm. The hose it off and if not completely clean, reapply. It will make everything look so much better, especially the ally head.

I just weighed my LS1 240Z with a T56 and R200 and got 1150kgs (pounds anyone??)

Well done Peter. Did you leave enough tension on the tensioner.

Hi, does anyone have any specs or dimensions of the bumpsteer spacers that are sold around the place. A CAD drawing of one would be excellent. Thanks

Apparently so, but I would like to confirm first. One member is getting a kit me to try in an 84 300zx, although I'm not sure if his is an L or an E (4N71B). I'd say the pressure increasing would be the same but the seperator plate may be different. If you have a spare valve body it would be worth trying if you knew what you were doing.

Have you got it yet? I was going to order one of those -6 ones from summit with the reusable filter element. I was thinking of mounting it after the Carter lift pump but before the surge tank and HP pump 044, so technically it isn't on the suction side of the HP pump reducing cavitation should it become restricted. Where is yours going?

Yes this kit suits both 3N71b three speed and 4N71b four speed jatco autos. How high rpm the auto holds gears for is related to your throttle position aka lack of vacuum in the inlet manifold so that could be an issue with your vacuum modulator. Although I know exactly what you mean about the early shift when in drive and I can say this kit did rectify that issue in one of my old cars. It speeds up the time between gear changes as well as mentioned above.

This car has been very inspiring towards my build. I love it. Just need the flares, rims and rear lip now. Still deciding on whether to go black or keep it all white.

I can offer these kits for $50 at the moment, $5 postage to America. Pm me if you want one. Thanks Tim

I'd be interested to see how you go installing it. Please post up some pics here. I just tried to fit one myself and the hatch parts were fine, but the door seals were horrible. Ended up giving up with two hands and door covered in sealant.

PM sent. I just received a heap of new springs so I've got a few kits made up ready to send off.

Yeah dowel, unless you want to buy 16 pen magnets. What about making your own version of the crane cams double valve spring compressor for spring changes or head dissasembly.

Not a very handsome man are you Peter

Righto. What is a common valve spring upgrade that isn't too expensive. I used 918's in my last car but that had a standard cam. I will probably go a medium sized cam this time. Something around the 220's.

So what are the good online stores to get this gear from??

Any further details on those, like cam specs or spring pressures etc?

Since the AUD is one for one at the moment with the USD, a lot of Aussies (more than usual) are buying their gear straight out of the States instead of the marked up local prices. For those with the LS1 conversions, what sort of gear have you purchased to make your LS engine a bit stronger and go faster etc: Valve springs Bigger cam Higher ratio rockers Heads Manifold Throttle bodies Braided clutch lines and remote bleeder And what are the best sites for prices as well, Summit Racing has quite an extensive site but what are some others. At this stage my plans are to upgrade from the original LS1 manifold to an LS6, upgrade my factory valve springs to something stronger?, I have installed higher ratio rockers once before with some good results but this time I'd like a nice sounding cam instead. I have also picked up some 241 heads locally so these might get a port job and installed at the same time as a cam. I'd love to here your feedback as I only really get the Australian LS1 goss.

You do understand how mechanical gauges work don't you?? The automotive industry is steering more and more towards electrical everything. Even throttle control is electronic these days, let alone instrument gauges. Your mechanical temp gauges has to be heated from a long copper tube before it does anything. What you're actually seeing happened 3 minutes ago. Newer factory gauges are designed and calibrated according to the engine to read in the middle of the gauge. And I think you'll find those newer engines also have oil pressure at idle as well, and don't have to be revved before they read anything. Did I mention electronic gauges are also easier??

Watch it mate or you'll be banned I'd love to see a white S30 with bronze TE37's or Rota grids?

Watch it mate or you'll be banned I'd love to see a white S30 with bronze TE37's or Rota grids?

Or do the same thing with the mech oil pressure as you did with the mech water temp and throw it in the bin as well, and go electronic. Why wouldn't you, its so easy. I've just wired up my dash after an LS1 conversion and gone all electronic Autometer gauges and it couldn't have been easier. The speedo even calibrates itself to my diff gears and wheel diameter etc.

CAN SOMEONE STICKY THIS THREAD????????????? It almost made it to the next page again!

I bolted all the panels up properly today after painting them and it fits lovely. I also have a confession to make. Someone called round my house with a car exactly the same as mine in everyway except his car was registered and mine isn't. So I decided to take this 'other' 240z for a drive to see how it went, now that it had oil pressure and water temp gauges all working. This required the suspension to be raised a bit since the last time he drove it out of his shed as it was way too low. So I put on my driving hat and as soon as I took off down the street it appeared it was running on a lot less than 8 cylinders which didn't surprise me as the plug leads had come on and off a few times and they are prone to disintergrating, and the plugs have never been changed (from what he tells me ). 'We' did do some initial fault finding with a temp gun on the headers to see which cylinder wasn't firing but they were all hot at idle as the miss wasn't apparent until it was under load. So I drive off in this V6 and three quarters, and damn this thing still has some balls. I was under the impression that it had 3.? something gears in the R200 but I was changing gears a lot more often than my clubsport and it had 3.73's. Anyway it accelerates well, handles well, brakes well (after the paint was rubbed off the rotors) and it sounds nice. I did learn a few things however. First being the accelerator pedal position in comparison with the brake and clutch pedal. With the chair in the correct position to operate both the later, my leg is too cramped or too bent to operate the throttle, resulting in sore feet muscles. If I was to move the chair back so my right leg is comfortable, I'm too far away from the brake and clutch pedal. Secondly, an issue prone to LS1's is the belt tensioner operation. When I swapped to an underdrive pulley on my previous LS1 the new belt length was shorter but the tensioner wasn't in the exact preloaded position it normally operates in. Hence it threw a few belts. The other reason could be the balancer has come off at some stage and hasn't gone back on completley in line. The issue is when you stab it and the crank balancer accelerates the belt speed so quickly over the other pulleys, the tensioner takes up the slack. Except, when it compresses it becomes somewhat out of alignment and allows a belt rib or two to jump off the pulley. Now I did give it a big stab on the last stretch to my house, and as I was putting into my back yard it started getting hot so I kind of knew where the belt would be, so a quick drive back in one of my registered cars and I picked it up. So its a new custom sized belt for me, as well as plugs and if that doesn't help, new leads. I'm hesitant to get new leads as I'm cooking up a coil relocation mod which would require longer plug leads anyway.