RB30X

$50

tell me what size AN fitting you'd like the rocker cover thread to go to and I'll tell you a price. Cheers

I have access to stainless fittings that screw straight into the standard L series rocker cover thread (and Nissan RB motors as they are the same) and can go to AN fitting. PM me if you want one, and in what AN size. Cheers

Just rehashing a thread which I believe should be a sticky. My LS1 T56 powered 240Z.

Looks pretty easy, what do you guys think? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=150449034539&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT

A bolt.

Pretty sure I've found the problem after stripping the MC for the second time. The piston was travelling too far foward allowing fluid to bypass the rear seal. I will either reduce the rod length which is already pretty adjusted, or increase the bump stop on the clutch pedal. Should be all sorted after that.

Yeah mate, the leak was definetly in the cabin from the rubber boot, as in the piston seal was leaking. And for what its worth, my clutch pedal has a hole drilled a little higher up than the standard piston rod to reduce piston travel.

Auto shift kits for 240Z 260Z 280Z 280ZX. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=150443289788&ssPageName=ADME:L:LCA:MOTORS:1123

So you used the standard 280zx clutch master on a T56 behind an LS1?? The reason I ask is I have an LS1/T56 conversion in my 240Z and when I tried to bleed the clutch master is started leaking through the seal into the boot and into the foot well. The master cylinder was a new factory item found in the Commodores/Clubpsorts over he is AUS which would be like the Camaro's/Corvettes over there. I pulled the master cylinder apart and cleaned out the plastic piston and the seals all looked good. Put it all back together and it still leaks. They don't just sell o-ring/seal kits here, you have to buy the whole replacement piston set which includes seals for $200 or a whole new master for $300. Anyone know or have a link to where seal kits are available in the States. I didn't want to spend that money to have it fail again, and was considering a older Z model clutch master. The question I have is about the volume of brake fluid displaced during the pedal stroke. The matching master seems to be quite small so I was hesitant to replace it with a older larger unit incase it opened the T56 slave cylinder 'too much' and damaged it. You obvioulsy have no dramas with it?? Just wasn't sure about matching different master cylinders to slave cylinders etc. cheers

Hi all, I have seen many people try to replace the factory hose fitting that comes out of the L series rocker cover. Usually this is so they can use a UN Dash fitting to run to a catch can or just to pretty up the engine a bit. Some example have a UN dash fitting simply welded onto the original fitting which looks a bit...... bad, and other have drilled the factory thread out and welded in a new dash fitting. Or they just use those hose clamps that 'look like' a dash fitting. I have found a stainless steel fitting with the same standard thread as the rocker cover and was wondering would there be any interest in a replacment fitting to suit the UN dash fittings, no welding or modifying your rocker cover, just a screw in replacement fitting. My next question would be the required (wanted) size of the hose fitting. We all know the larger the hose, the slower the air flow, the less oil vapour will be carried with the air. I think -6 would be smaller than the factory hose but a more likely size to connect to an oil catch can, so would -8 or -10 be prefered?? (photos from this site) cheers

Hi, is there a shop somewhere in the US that has developed a shift kit to improve the performance of the automatics in the 240's right through to the 280ZX's????? Just wondering if there was such a thing for the 3N71B auto for those people thtat can't be bothered swapping to a manual or just prefer autos???? cheers

So what if your LS1 had all cylinders around 135-140 dry and 140-150 wet?? A lot lower than some peoples readings (200psi) but kind of close together.

Do yourself a favour a completely rule out a vacuum leak on your inlet manifold. Go over it with a piece of fuel hose and listen for a leak or spray some 'ether' or 'start ya bastard' around where manifold meets the head and listen for rpm increase. I had exactly the same problem you have described with my webers and played around with linkages and fuel mixtures for months and still had high idle until I pulled them shut. Then I removed them and used a new manifold/head flange gasket with sealer on both sides and OMG, my webers worked perfectly. I tried what I recommended above and didn't hear any leaks but there still was.

I'd love to see some SU's dressed up a bit??? Like this

Here are some others I've found here.

Many of us spend a small fortune to swap out our boring rubber fuel lines for sexy braided lines and dash fittings, so please use this thread to post pics of your set up for everyone to enjoy. I searched for hours through this site to find pics of DCOE triples with these fittings so I knew how to set up the fuel supply for mine. I ended up going my own way. Feel free to show us yours.

I bought a nickel plating kit recently and I was wondering what material the S30 door handles were made from as well as the body badges etc. Obviously I can only nickel plate (chrome) onto steel. The badges and door handles kind of look like a cast alloy???? I suppose I could get a magnet and if it sticks its good to go. Anyone know for sure or used a nickel plating kit for such tasks.

What sort of camera or attachment do you need to take photos like that?????

I have just bought a new lock set consisting of ignition barrel, two door locks as well as two extra door barrels, all key'd alike. I got the two extra door barrels for the fuel flap and the rear hatch. Now all I need is a picture of what the cams look like on the back of the barrels so I can make them up myself. The fuel flap is pretty straight foward but I am interested to know how the key turning the barrel in the hatch, pushes down the lever on the hatch release mechanism. So far all I've found is this pic which kind of shows a boot/hatch cam from a Dastun 510. Can anyone show me what a 240Z/260Z's hatch lock barrel cam/lever looks like? Thanks

I am trying to track down these items for my 240Z. 260Z or 280Z should be the same. I need the two door locks/barrels with the linkage arms, the fuel flap lock and hatch lock. Matching ignition would be awesome but I'm already pushing my luck with this request. I can't get these locally. Also need the linkage rods that go up to the door lock knob as well as knobs themselves x 2. 2 door handles in good condition too if you've got em. Thanks

Yeah they fit. I'd really like to know if R32 GTR/Skyline boosters would fit our Z's. There are so many available locally and the stud pattern looks similar in pictures. Not sure where the master cylinder diameter is an actual upgrade though.

Did you look at the link?? The guy pushes the bonnet/hood hinge to the closed position without the bonnet attached, hence there was no bonnet weight to assist in the compressing of the strut/shock. Hence, imagine how easy it would be to close with over a meter of bonnet leverage when it is installed, hence, it would fall on your head.

Yeah ok, I would'nt mind a pic of the lower mounting point. Top is pretty straight foward but I'll have to see a bottom mount before I go searching for a local strut the right length to use, they are obviously very short struts.

Thanks for that, I should've searched 'hood shocks' not 'bonnet struts':mrgreen: I'd be a little worried about the strength of that ready made kit if the guy can force it closed with his hand how will it support an open bonnet. Oh well, at least I know how people do it now. Thanks