clint78z

Some good discussion going on here, things have been kept fairly civil. JWT is a fairly good company with some good knowledge and decent business practices. For some ppl it's a good route to go. They do make quite a bit of money on their turbo's, you pay more money for a turbo which is the same as any other garret turbo. The specs are hidden, but they know how to make good street/strip power from a T3/T4 turbo. JWT ecu is plug and play at first, but to really get it good dyno time is needed. As this time adds up, and programmable ECU starts looking like a better option if you know what you are doing. 3bar map sensor no problem, bigger injectors piece of cake. A T76 on a supra with 24v head and tons more combustion effeciency, and higher redline. Yes they can get away with this bad boy. I don't think a L28 can get away with this on the street. Let's put on the thinking cap for a second. If 2 turbo's have same effeciency maps they can have different charachteristics on the car. 1) The bigger wheel usually needs more spool up time, radius og gyration thing 2) The one with the bigger a/r won't spool up fast, but may help in top end power if the other a/r was too restrictive. Another word turbo lag or what rpm it spools up at. BE WARY every single time you hear this until you know all the facts behind this. For example a small turbo may acheive it's max boost (17psi) by 2800rpms. A bigger turbo may achieve it's maximum boost (25psi) by 3500rpms HERE'S THE CATCH the bigger turbo may come close to acheiving the same or even more power by 2800rpms. Selecting a turbo to acheive 600hp on the street will probably become a very fine line between too big and too small. It's like goldie lock's and the three bears, finding one that's just right. A T66 is probably ball park. James is rightabout you package right now, it is very impressive but alot of the JWT is about maxxed out. Turbo, injectors, MAF are all on their upper limits.

Granted I love stick, and won't give it up. Yes automatics are usually much better for drag racing. While it does help all engines in a drag, it is especially helpful in a turbo car. In a manual when you launch you are basically launching it as a normally asprirated car. Since the turbo works off exhaust gas, it really doesn't spin that much when engine is revved in neutral. In an auto it allows the engine to build boost at a stand still, suddenly you are launching with mabey 150hp instead of 50hp at the low rpm. Scottie makes a very good point about gearing often oevrlooked. Seems that some L6 guys want to put a T56 behind there engine. Well it seems good at first glance, but is it really matched for the motor. If first is too high or low it will either smoke the tires and you will have to shift right away, or huge bog and fall on it's face. Find the gear ratios of the 2004R and what diff gear ratios GN guys run. Then use a spreadsheet to try and find a good match for an different tranny/gear combo.

Lone that is friggin priceless, you crack me up all the time.

Good idea DAW you can chart everything that way. scottymlz just do this. Setup up AFM spring tension to give you maximum power under boost, O2 sensor will correct a bit at part throttle. And have an electronic solenoid off the TPS idle circuit this will allow bypass air. On the end of the solenoid have a bleeder valve that you can manually set the metered air leak around the AFM. So to set idle mixture simply adjust the little valve. Simple and easy, one relay, one solenoid, one bleeder valve.

I think IMHO that the ppl that rave about the 4x4 solid rotor swap are ones who really didn't use their stock brakes to their full potential anyhow. The do lot's of cruising around town and are impressed by the added clamping force when they touch the pedal. Others use their for high speed stopping, repeatedly. On solid rotor it starts to heat the rotor and brake fluid. The solid rotor 4X4 will probably fade just as fast, but has more initial clamping force. Personally I would stick with stock braking system with ultra Hi temp racing brake fluid, SS braided lines, and some street/racing pads and add some cooling ducts. Properly maintain the slack in rear drums. Or go with a vented 300zx rotor, and toyota calipers, plus all the other stuff listed above.

I know they ship their product to Canada, because they have a ddealer in Ontario. It is probably lots of paper work, and added shipping charges that doesn't make it feasable to ship a small amount to one Customer. I will keep on it to find a cheap solution !!

I got an email back from them very quickly, they seems extremely helpful and informative. They are not out to BS you about it must be applied by a dealer with $20k worth of equipment. I think anyone that preps and has a decent air brush can get excellent results. I saw on the web that one guy used his wife's oven to bake it and it supposedly had no smell. I am sure powdercoating would smell just like paint. Unforntunately they can't ship to Canada, dangerous goods makes it too much of a pain in the butt for them. He said he could ship to a US BOX, then someone could pick it up. Hmm I guess I have to figure out a different way.

There is always seem to be intrest here in ceramic coatings here. I would like to get my manifold done but live in Canada so just going to a shop is a big problem. I found this place that sells ceramic coating powder, dry film lube for piston skirts, and thermal barrier for top of pistons. I emailed to see if I could buy some without being a retailer. Prices are very good. I will update if I get a response http://www.techlinecoatings.com

Ignition is a real bugger to nail down, most maps are simply just what works best through trial and error. An engineer could tell you the basics of why it's supposed to fire then but there is so many variables unaccounted for. I have heard that max timing is 3000-3600rpm at light cruise conditions. Your intial fuel curve should roughly follow your torque curve if you overlay them NOT YOUR HP CURVE. Wide band O2 take away lots of guessing, however being careful and taking your time tuning can get you there. A couple of pulls on the dyno should be later on. Just too expensive for me right now !!

Thanks Arif timing curve looks too agressive for the crappy gas we get here. A couple of tips I have picked up from others. Once you pass your torque peak of 4400rpm or so you fuel demands should go down from there try tapering your fuel setting past this rpm. Max advance usually occurs at around 3600rpm and light cruise conditions. Thanks for the map, I always like looking at the way others tune.

It goes in one of my super tastefull categories, not superflash but just right. I love when the old classics get an update and still maintain the same flavour (the Eleanor Mustang). Hmm if Hybridz guys had there way there would actually be a 350 in the new 350z, ooh a new ligenfelter warmed LS6, that would make the hair on the back of the journalists neck stand up.

Hey Arif shoot me your setting too, I have a DFI but I can figure out the pulse widths easy enough. Once I get my tuning done I am going to put more on my page show fuel and igntion maps for everyones turbo cars.

Just a little note about the Mitsu 4 banger they are tough little engines that can make great power. It is one of the loudest idlling 4's I have ever seen tick tick tick. It lacks alot of the sophistication, bottom end torque and smoothness of the SR20. The modded Mitsu is still a very potent package when done right. Currently I play with my brothers Talon TSI, hard car to beat bang for the buck.

Hey I got this strut bar for cheaper than it is here. The aluminum peice is very nice, the outer plates have standard poop on metal welding. I got the one for the civic and I am making new plates anyhow. Very nice looking piece for bieng so cheap web page

I believe there is no needed modifications required for low impedence injectors. Go to a parts store and order a 4pin igntion module for an 88 chev pickup, you need to lock out the distibutor and have an adjustment where the vacuum advance used to be to set timing. This even mounts on same holes for an Normally aspriated 280z distributor. Make sure that you cround the case properly. This will allow Accel full timing control. Another not power to injectors comes from main fused power wire on DFI then goes to 4 seperate switched grounds. Go here for more info and read those manuals http://www.mrgasket.com/dfimain.html I have an EMIC manual if you need it sent to your email, it's pretty big PDF format if you want. Good luck

Of course you can run any injectors you want even Peak hold ones. Simply take your base fuel map and multiply by old/new. Ie going from 270cc to 370cc multiply entire grid by 270/370 there is a ultility in calmap that does this for you.

No $$ right now to upgrade to 17" rims & tires, I am stuck with 14x6's . I did a search too and this is all I could find 185/55/14 kumho 712's this I think would look too small 195/55/14 Toyo Proxes T1-S bare minimum "" Dunlop 8000 195/60/14 Yoko 520 225/55/14 Toyo RA-1 I am worried that I won't be able to get enough milage out of the RA-1. If I do a 4 hour trip will I have any tires left ??

Well I jumped in full bore rebuilt motor, new engine managment,different igntion system, turbo, injector upgrade, fuel pump. There were so many unknowns for me. I thought I had the concept of tuning the DFI down, it ran real bad on first startup after all the upgrades. Problems Chev igntion module not grounded properly. Then some sorting of the fuel maps it ran decent and still started awsome, it had a minor miss in the idle, and poor responsiveness. The motor had poor engine vacuum. I made sure the injectors were sealing properly hissing noise was gone. Funny because the injectors were clicking but no fuel. I used a near by injector connection to verify it wasn't just the terminal end on the harness. When I put a known good plug on the injector no change in rpm, VOILA it's got to be a bad injector. Expensive diagnosis tools aren't nessary if you use a bit of ingenuity, and a good manual helps too. Currently idles very smoothly, I get a bit of a flutter at 4psi and up, so I need to tune some more on the upper end of the map. A little passenger seat time with the laptop should hopefulley cure that.

I fixed my vehicle whohoo I thought it was poor tuning on my Accel DFI, nope it was good old fashioned trouble shooting that fixed it. I am now quite good at troubleshooting engines. First check the igntion system first it is the easiest to eliminate. Get out the multimeter check 12v at the battery, next 12v at the coil and ignition module. Replace cap that's always cheap. Run up on TDC and check rotor postion, then firing order and plug wiring. Check timing, wire resistance, and then spark at plugs. There is a cool $5 part that hooks inline with spark plug that lights up when firing. Your ignition system is done. Now it is down to Air/Fuel I had problems in both. Here is a good place to start with EFI, take the injector plugs off one at a time and get somone to watch the Tachometer. Each cylinder should drop the rpm by the same. In my case I found 2 cylinders that had no effect on rpm. Right away I knew the problem was with those 2 cylinders, either it wasn't getting proper fuel or a vacuum leak. If all cylinders drop equal rpm you either have a vacuum leak to all cylinders or fuel ratio is not right to all cylinders (sensor, computer, wiring, fuel pump...) So after installing 2 new injectors boom car runs awsome. START WITH THE EASY STUFF AND CROSS THINGS OFF ONE BY ONE.

The problem with a pit is it hard to get parts and pieces down there, and clean up is a pain in the hoop. Nothing like a lift to effortlessly work on the underside of a car. Mike will probably be doing some serious wrench time, it will pay off after a while.

I found this article about setting up the entire chassis of a car. It is the best I have seen on the internet, mabey someone who likes crunching numbers can put a 240z through the calcs. Anyone seen any errors or have something to add ?? Suspension Setup Article

You are making a trade-off here that may not get you HP or even cost you HP. A huge key to a turbo manifold is retaining the heat that enters the turbo. The more heat across the turbine the more power you will get, and quicker spoolup. Hotter air has more volume right, that volume pushes the turbine blades. True the ZXT manifold is not perfect but it'd short and retains the heat and a lot less prone to cracking. The theory behind a header is to tune the pulses to actually help suck the exhaust out. On a turbo header you can tune the pulses but the end up at a huge restriction the turbine blades right away. 1. Ceramic coat old manifold to retain the heat 2. Reduce any flow restrictions in the manifold 3. Use a thin wall downpipe to dissapate heat after the turbo, smooth turns to reduce backpressure with a 2 1/2" min diameter. Here is a good article on the theory, remember the turbo exhuast is a special case where extra ponies can be had if you go about it the right way. Fmax turbo manifold

Braking is resolved, diagnosis was correct. Talk about something to make you scratch your head. The little reaction disc (rubber bumper) fell out inside the old booster. I got a rebuilt one for $160 cdn, no vacuum leaks on this one. The brakes have been restored tadda !!

It's been done by an after market company in Aus. already. Nice toy with an excellent writeup by AUTOSPEED. AUTOSPEED

I was thinking of adapting this honda strut bar into the back of my Z. It's dirt cheap and could always modify the end pieces to fit. The threaded ends go in and out 2 inches for adjustability. The aluminum middle section is fairly beefy, I couldn't buy aluminum for that price.