RebekahsZ

I don't know why my spell checker changed "something" to sole/vent thing. Re-read my post with "something" in that spot instead. BTW-lets try to get together sometime this summer since we are both in the same state ( I know it is 7 hours top to bottom ).

I recommend rebuilding the motor yourself. It is a super simple build and is a good one to use as your first build. Just be sure to have a friend who you can call to help interpret terms in the manual that might be new or vague, ie TDC, run-out, lash, etc.

You will definitely have gas spilling out on left turns. Better to find sole thing to plug that hole. If your gas cap is vented, you don't need that line at all. A 3/4" copper cap (for soldering on to cap a water line) that you get at Lowes is a tight squeeze but will fit if you put some soap on it. A better option might be to epoxy a cap on the white plastic tube that usually goes in the filler neck. Just don't drop either one into the tank!!

Nothing wrong with starting in second. What tires are you running?

Send a PM to MiKelly. He has a 280z, but it shouldn't matter. He is road racicng with stock length tubes and camber plates. I think he has done exactly what you are wanting to do and he still has 6" of total travel per my last conversation with him, and he is in the weeds on huge tires. While you are at it, check his build thread in the Member Projects forum, so you can be educated on his car before you PM him.

Mattd428-can you tell us what car dyno'd with that cam before the turbo?

Fantastic.

Wow!!! That's awesome. Have you added your cam specs to my cam thread in the Gen III forum? I'd love to know what is making that rumble! Is the back half done?

Hwvigo-if you make a bunch up, I will pay you enough for a pair to make a little profit. Yes, it will function the same and be just a little but smaller diameter - exactly what I want. The ability to remove the damn thing without having to cut my suspension apart and spend a week doing it vs casually taking it apart in a few hours is a BIG upgrade. Not a performance upgrade, but rather a serviceability upgrade.

Long term project. I have to learn some about manufacturing. I was just feeling out the target community. Funny that so many wanted to be dream killers! On my car I have rear flares on both the BAMF and regular glass flares. Roll bar builder had a delay getting tubing, so he doesnt start till Monday. Assuming he ordered sufficient tubing I have no clue how long it will take. Eager to get fenders cut out.

Mine are up at 4". Maybe too high. Should look good with drag slicks but kind of 4x4 with streets and r-comps.

If you decided you wanted to just sell it, I have a friend who would relieve you of that LSD if the price was well below the price of a virgin unit. PM me if you would consider parting ways with it. Have a minimum price in mind.

I may have already said this, but anybody relocating a battery needs to consider if they ever want to race their car. Each rulebook has different requirements when it comes to battery relocation.

Having been thru this before myself, I would discourage you from trying to nickle the coilover conversion to death. You really have to maintain suspension travel. Two ways to do this: sectioning the tube, or camber plates and elimination of the top strut insulator. If you do camber plates, the top spring perch is higher in the tower, effectively lowering the car without reducing travel. If you lower the car by lowering the bottom spring perch, or by shortening the spring, you have to re-gain that lost suspension travel by shortening he strut above the lower perch, ie "sectioning." I recommend that you wait until you can afford to do one or the other. I also want to say that I love my spring rates for both track and street: 225F/250R. Firm but not harsh.

Ouch!!! And all this time, I thought your machine was rust-free. I think carpet is the devil: no carpet=no rust. Get some sleep every now and then-is that cold any better? You sounded like crap the other day. My car is trapped in the roll bar wasteland. I don't think the tubing has arrived yet.

VERY cool!

So far, everybody I know (three guys) who has purchased a used T56 separate from a full pull-out has gotten screwed and had to rebuild it. After that, they have spent as much as they would have for a lower mileage full motor/trans pullout. Just like it is when buying a chassis, "pay me now or pay me later." Buy well and get on the street with less agony.

What is the measurement in inches between the highest point on your flare and the hard line of the fender? Mine is only four inches.

Get a machinist to clean that up for you. Still useable. Super easy to drop oily, smooth, heavy parts. You could just as easily drop the next one yourself.

Lots of good advice. Thanks fellas. I would definitely take the time to order some from a couple of vendors and especially the highly regarded Japanese version. I'm just testing the waters. I have a fully time job, so this isn't anything that's gonna happen soon or probably at all. What's the thickness like on the Marugens? How many layers of glass cloth? Could they withstand getting hit with a jack handle in the shop or a cone at an autocross? Injection molded plastic would be my first choice followed by urethane. Metal dents so its not my top choice. What are the Marugens running in US $? I would only be seeking to improve availability or durability for folks who beat on their cars like I do. I'm imagining whacking one of these things then having to wait a couple months for a replacement to arrive.

In a car as light as the z go with option 1. I have option 2, and you just don't need first to be that deep.

Thank you! I was afraid that the HF tool wouldn't work on steel. I will be bothering you again with questions once I have the metal work done.

Can you show the installer tool? I bought one from HF last time I was in Huntsville and it came with an assortment of ALUMINUM rivet nuts. My tool looks kinda like a pop-riveter (kinda cheap looking).

That's my job to figure out. To the question: would you buy some?

Looks great! Whose flares are those? Wide or regular width? What rivet nut kit is that-aluminum or steel?