RebekahsZ

I'm so ready to see some timeslips on your orange car. Has it been down the track yet? I'm a big fan.

They are so cheap. And speedway has a great return policy. They appear to be exactly what is on my car with parts I bought from ground control 20 years ago. If it were me: buy them and try them. If they don't fit, send 'me back. Of course you wouldn't want to do all that heating and cooling. Mine are a little loose on my 240z strut tubes so they are easy to remove and adjust. In fact when I am making adjustments I turn the collar and the seat in opposite directions to get it done more quickly. I hope these are right, but I would give it a try. Sorry mine is assembled and at the roll cage shop or I would go pull a measurement got you.

Next winter I'm gonna be picking some brains about this kit. I need room for a forward cross bar/knee bar on my mini-cage. Looks like this kit should open up a space behind the dash between the location of the stick heater control levers/cables and the heater itself. Very interested in where you place the controls. Watching and learning from you. Litman is using the same system and is a little ahead of you if you run into any issues he may be able to help. Questions: how much should I budget for this system start to finish? I see where the water hoses connect-how easy will those to service while the dash is in? I guess that question applies to control valves, etc too. Is this thing gonna require dash removal everytime it needs tweaking? Haha-my spell check tried to make that twerking!.

Speedwaymotors.com

I will reference this thread when I buy a welding g machine. For a z-car lover or a guy building a street rod, how often will I need to weld something greater than 5/16"?

I switched from cheap organic semi metallic to to a cheap ceramic pad and it made a big difference on my S10 truck. Autozone replacement pads. I think they said ceramic gold on the box.

Good choice. Iwayman-if you have a good sense of humor, you need to rent an old movie titled:Zoolander. If you don't have a good sense of humor, please disregard. Love your car, btw, super clean.

Looking for pointers and paint product recommendations for painting roll cage coming out of shop next week. To mask or not? Or hold a folder behind tube to block overspray? Durable paint recommendation? Needs to be available in rattle can. I have been thinking about using black brake caliper paint because it seems to bond and cover well without primer. I see a future of lots of scratches on the door bars as I drag my sorry butt thru that tight opening.

Main hoop is mocked up in spot welds. Rear supports are in. Pending diff support bars and door bars. Maybe it will be finished this week. But, fabricator has been willing to make changes as I ask him. Main hoop it so tight he had to remove the little nipples on the inside of the inner quarters where the little plastic seatbelt hanger hooks screw in. Photos next week when it is finished.

I'm always amazed at the crap the hellaflush crowd is willing to drag down the street. In my modest world, only zero tire rub is acceptable. Note to original poster: that was a comment about JMortensen's photo he offered for our consideration. I think your flares are neat. But, like everybody says, I'm eager to see how much more tire clearance they actually offer. Hopefully enough for what you want, that is all that really matters.

I respectfully disagree with the thinking that you have to do everything to the max on the first try. It is enough work in and of itself just to get the engine and tranny in and driving. Lots of guys fail to even finish that, so make that your primary objective. The diff and even just the axles are individual items that can come later. When I did my swap I started with a R180 with stock u-joint axles and 240z stubs. Then upgraded to Wolf Creek CV axles. Then went to R200 CLSD, then to 280z stubs. Then to Z31T axles, then to billet stubs. Other than time, the only thing I really spent twice on was companion flanges due to a change from 27-spline to 39-spline. All unwanted parts I was able to sell within the forum at minimal loses to reflect that the parts were lightly used. Along the way, I never broke anything. As stated above, the 14mm nuts on stock axles should be checked and tightened regularly (gring down a 14mm box end wrench just for the task and keep it handy).. Even using locktite, mine backed off after every night at the track on slicks/drag radials. But that also happened with a 150hp L24! So far, after 3(?) years of drag racing and autocrossing the car, I have only broken 3 driveshafts, only once was a total failure of the a cheap, cast steel slip yoke. I spotted twisting of a second slip yoke on visual inspection and cracking of welds on a small 2" driveshaft tube that has now been increased to 3". And that may have only been cracks in the paint. Fortunately, the total d/s failure happened at the line and the car never moved, so there was zero carnage. The cheap slip yoke was $35; a forged slip yoke is about $100, and a hardened billet Strange slip yoke is about $225. I recommend the forged yoke made by TCI for value since you are going A/T. I never used my forged yoke, but I have one in a spare driveshaft for the day that (if) I break the billet yoke. If I break that, then I go to $240 Mark Williams Chrome Moley version and run the forged unit while awaiting parts.

You should be fine, but buy a couple of spares to put on the shelf, then if you break one it is just an hour to replace it. If you are just cruising, why would they break? I bet you'd be fine with even a R180.

What if you mounted solidly to the engine side and built a flat-head style rubber mount on the chassis side? You are putting all the twist on the thin "frame rail" by pivoting at the engine end of that lever. What about going solid with no rubber in the mounts? Not like a little vibration is gonna bother you in that beast. Have you seen MiKelly's version?

Inherited first 56 from my Grandpa when I was 13. It was so rusty it took me 3 years to get it road worthy. It was a factory 312-225hp-'4bbl-dual exhaust-heavy duty Fordomatic 3-spd auto. It was a 4-door post, police interceptor model my dad picked out for HIS dad when my dad was home from Germany on Army leave on 1957. Factory black paint and padded dash with seatbelts. It was a really hot car for a 16 y/o. Second one was a factory black 2-door post 292-4bbl-dual exhaust with a 3 on the tree with factory fender skirts. I sold the first one when it re-rusted after new paint. I sold the second one because the wife was always pissed that I always worked on the car. Still married after 25 years, but she still hated my cars. I hated that I could never get rain water to stop getting into the carpet. My z has same problem. I was meant to drive cars with moldy carpets! That Fordomatic was great: rubber in gears 1and 2. Tranny was so tight you could push start it.

Dang-I just saw duragg's photo. It the problem the LCA or the backspacing of the top-hat/rotor combo on the AZC brakes? I'd love to see the heat shielding duragg added in a photo...?... F-ing domino effect! Why do we do this to ourselves-arghh! Some days I'm only a $10,000 offer from selling it all. For what it is worth, I did several hours of continuous curb hopping last year at AMP with my TTT control arms and all was well, but that was pre-AZC brakes. My brakes failed before my control arms.

If we try to do Drag Week, I will need enough warning to figure out a trailer hitch. Just what I need-ANOTHER reason to drop the damn tank! Or, maybe I could put all my crap on Josey's trailer?? Or, maybe just drive without a passenger seat and put all the extra axles, tools and tires there-but who would keep me awake?

If you decide to sell your turbo axles, just let me know, I'm collecting axles and turbo CVs for a possible NO2 addition next year.

Cut em. The ball joint is strong. It won't hurt anything. Cut em more.

Not to be a party pooper, but.... Having done a stock LS swap, I wish I had handled the fuel tank differently. I have a stock tank with an external pump and a custom in-tank sump. I wish I had bought a narrower plastic tank with either internal or external pump and an internal sump. The narrower tank would give more room for exhaust, relocated battery and structural things like a trailer hitch or chute or rear diffuser (even if just for looks). I would also try to set up the mounting so I could drop the tank in from the trunk rather than pushing it up from underneath (sucks). It's bad enough having to do heavy diff and tranny work from underneath (if I could figure a way around that I sure would). When I did mine, I was thinking that it was real important to have a spare tire (I'm dating myself back to the days when tires got flats frequently), but I never carry a floor jack (and the little Datsun jack is just great for destroying rocker panels), so that was kind of a bust. Cut out your spare tire well and be done with it.

Leave California-you can always visit. You would have that car licensed in 24 hours here. There are houses available in my executive neighborhood with 3-car garages for $90 per sqft. Undeveloped property is $2000 an acre. Y'all come!

I'm hoping to roam a lot this summer. Huntsville, pickwick, Moulton, n. Alabama, Steele, Memphis, Clayton, GA, Wilmington, OH. If I can I would also like to autocross at Enterprise, AL. I wonder what happened at L-berg? I talked to a buddy who made three 8-sec passes on Saturday. I'd love to find put that they are going to make things stickier.

Did you have any trouble bleeding the clutch this time? If not, any suggestions for the rest of us for our future trials? Also, any chance that the ticking is an exhaust leak? Try retorquing all your exhaust connections including the head-to-header bolts. I think the torque recommendation into the aluminum head is pretty low, so don't go crazy, like only 25 ft-lb(?). My 3-bolt flange on the collector was bad to loosen often. You've probably already tried that, though so I'm not trying to be a know-it-all.

Thank you!!!!! I've had the "shakes" for two days. Better now.

Not "as much" rust. 😜So true.

We all just fab up some sort of aluminum or steel support bracing. The big aluminum sheet "splitter" is the current trend.