RebekahsZ

Do you have a NHRA battery/alternator kill switch wired? I need help understanding how to wire that for an LSx motor. I was going to look at another LS powered drag car this Saturday to see that setup but it sold and was moved out of town.

I like the Dotsun spacers. That is great machine work. Does your friend do work for your friends?? I'm working on a 2-caliper backing plate for wildwood dynalites so that I can run a hand operated staging brake independent of my main system. I would be modifying from the AZC braket.

Someday I want to do one of those long cruises where you drag race along the way. That way we could start on the east coast and roll all the way west to the sea and see buddies along the way. BTW-you will NEVER be finished with your Datsun.

Lets try again in the Spring? I'll try to have the car ready so that I'm not worried about tech. The steel bellhousing is the only part I'm really dreading.

Thank you. I will look at those models for perspective. It is looking like the drag seat is gonna win this one.

That was a cool video! Why do all of us with cool z-cars have a huge pile of crap along the side of our shops? My shop is no better-Rednecks are everywhere! Somebody PLEASE come clean off my workbench!

I ordered a MGW camaro shifter that has its own lower boot, then I trimmed the stock Z lower boot like Nigel did above. It ended up looking a lot like his.

Thank you sq_creations. That seat back is awfully high. I wonder if I could cut it off at the top and have it repaired? I have a really good aluminum fabricator that I use.....

I just looked at your thread and your wheels look like Silver Rota RKRs. You want to send a new photo so I can see what you have? I'll call Kim at 18Racing and see what I'm looking at for new, shipped to my house. I will be putting race rubber on, so I don't want any used tires.

Opened the boxes containing my new AZC big brake kit and immediately got a boner.

If this stuff was easy, everybody would be doing it. I'm certain that I've paid my fabricator's rent on many occasions. I do worry that my contribution alone may not be enough-he recently lost his shop space. Gotta track him down later this month for some work-hope I can find him-everything he has done for me has been like a Faberge' Egg in my eyes.

For once I will be brief: WOW!

How fun. I was just working with a gearing calculator earlier tonight because I am going Saturday to pick up a parts car that I hope has a 3.36 R200 in it-that's a rare diff. The problem I have is in having a car that I want to do EVERYTHING with. I'm frequently running out of 2d gear autocrossing and I'm running out of 3rd gear in the 1/8th-mile. I want to be close to red-line (factory rev-limiter), which I believe is at 6200rpm. My computer tuner (who builds open road top speed LS corvettes) discouraged me from increasing the rev-limiter limit in order to keep the motor together. So, I'm playing with all the gear/tire/speed calculators. With my current power, the best I have done is 100mph in the 1/8th and 126 in the 1/4. With a 150 shot of NO2, I should be at about 108 in the 1/8th and 135 in the 1/4. The 3.90/26 tire combo is great for 1/4-mile (4th gear), but sucks for 1/8th (3rd gear). Way too short for 1/8 gear-on rev limiter before 600'. The 3.54/26 tire combo is just a hair too short for 3rd gear 1/8-mile. On rev limiter at about 640' but when it comes on it is like car is hitting brakes. The 3.54/26 should be pretty good in the 1/4 with or without nitrous. The 3.36/26 combo should be perfect for 1/8-mile crossing line at 6200 rpm at 100mph but the rpms are too low for 1/4. The 3.54/28 tire combo should be perfect for 1/8-mile: 6000rpm at 100mph, but is lugging thru the traps in the 1/4th. The 3.36/28 tire combo is good for nitrous (est 108mph), but the rpms are too low in the 1/8th at 100mph (n/a). One of my projects this winter is to clearance the rear wheelwells and flare them to accommodate 26X10s for the 1/4 and 28X10.5s for the 1/8th. That way I'm just swapping tires and not diffs. I feel like I'm doing a pretty good job of wringing 100% out of this car. And, every blue moon I drive it well enough to deserve it. I hate to cut it, but it has been cut before to remove rust, so the car is only worth the fun that it gives us. I really think for autocrossing, I'd do better with the 3.36 since most of those tires are only 24-26" tall (low profile). I'm going from 9" wide rear tires to 10" rear tires - I'm traction limited, not power limited. And this motor is totally stock!! I will be gaining about 100# this winter between the rollbar and the bellhousing. Tossing around a cam kit...but I'm not sure that will really help me-maybe just move my rpm band around some without adding real power. BTW-most of the discussion on LS1tech that you sent me was for auto trans cars. If your axle has too high of a gear, you can make the tranny slip to cover it up.

Yeah, I think I'm done for the year too. Too many little issues annoying me that I gotta fix, anyway. It has been a good year. But, next year is gonna be a big one! SunnyZ will be in the 9s and I'll be in the 10s-and that's just gonna have to be good enough for me. Let's have a time slip war-quantity vs. quality wins??

I searched using this search browser and the google search function last week before posting this, so please don't put me in the tool bin . I am in the market for some new racing seats and I was considering Kirkey seats. I mostly hobby drag race this 240z (about twice a month this summer), but I also autocross (7 events this year), daily drive and plan to do a couple of instructed track days a year. I will have a 6-point roll bar with door bars to climb over and I need to get my seating done before I take car to roll bar builder. I really don't want to have a removable steering wheel because I've seen enough videos of them popping off at inopportune times, but if I must, I must. I'm 46 and the old lower back is a little compromised. I have narrowed down to two types of Kirkey seats based on the compromise of side bolster design (not too high so I can get in) and the availability of fabric covers (I want cloth, not vinyl). I have ridden in a friend's car with the Series 41 Pro Street Drag with just a little extra padding from the fabric store, and the seat was amazingly comfortable. Here are the two seats I'm comparing: Series 41 Pro Street Drag http://www.kirkeyracing.com/index.php?link=browse&code=Series41 Series 47 Intermediate Road Race http://www.kirkeyracing.com/index.php?link=browse&code=Series47 What I don't know is: How much lateral support do the shoulder bolsters add? Any experienced advice out there before I go to paypal on these?

So that was the final-like you won 2d place?? Be more kind to yourself, anybody who thinks drag racing is easy has never done it more than a few times. That is incredible that you are hooking up so well-I though I heard it bog a bit off the line, suggesting that it hooked. There must be a big difference between a 9" slick on a 7" wheel and a 10.5" slick on a 8" wheel. I think we have the same shock and spring rate...looking forward to more rubber in the spring. I'm waterboxing in 2d gear at 5,000rpm-it takes forever for me to get smoke using 1st gear. But, my stock brakes aren't holding me still anymore-I'm either turning to one side or just moving forward altogether. I wonder why your track officials waved all the safety stuff that they've been so much trouble about before...

Checking the forum before ordering from wheelbay or direct from Rota. If you have a pair, or a full set of four, send me a PM with a price.

Twisted the metal tab inside the lock tumbler and reassembled. Got all excited and drove the car without trouble for 2 full days-key action felt great. Took it to the autocross and it was fine in the morning session. Drove car to Taco Bell on the lunch break and darn near didn't get back! The car wouldn't crank to get back from Taco Bell. Kept twisting key over and over (a variety of curses had no effect) until on about the 100th time, the car fired up like nothing was ever wrong! I never turned it off during the afternoon session, so I wouldn't cause a grid delay. Cranked right up when I unloaded it for the evening. I'm tired of this and am getting ready to buy a whole new tumbler and switch assembly for about $200 (not in love with having two keys, but I'm ready to have this behind me). From my symptoms (please read whole thread), is there any wisdom in trying to replace the accessory relay (if I can find one) before spending the big bucks? Thanks, guys, for dealing with this idiot.

I sold a set of those on ebay about a year a go. Pretty sure I got a grand for them. What is that thing moving around under your distributor in the movie? You got a cat under your hood?

Sounds fine, so long as you don't intend to race the car competitively. For NHRA, if you relocate the battery from it's stock location, you have to have a battery shutoff switch mounted external to the car, visible and accessible from the very back of the car. Why this isn't required for a battery in the stock location, I have no idea. For that reason, I would go ahead and put my shutoff switch back there instead of where you were considering. I don't know whether I would worry about having the battery right where the fuel lines are...or not...the area is well enough vented...thinking out loud.

Was this in a bracket format or a heads-up format? Love it-thanks for posting the video-very well done photography and sound-would love to make that my ringtone. Looked like that ricer beat you on the light as much as on the 60'. I'm hoping you will post each of those time slips. You burning out in 1st or 2nd gear (looks like 1st)? At what rpm is your 2-step set? Sounds like you might have been spinning a bit on the 1-2 shift, but it looked like you hooked well on the clutch drop even with the torque of the NO2. Glad your clutch handled all that slippage-that is the kind of slipping that warped my flywheel. We so totally need a drag racers' forum. Are you burning out with the spray on, on your spray runs, or do you switch it on between the water box and staging?

AZGhost-I think you are screwed. And, you have had the pleasure of being patronized. Feeling bad for you on both accounts.

Just got a better paycheck than expected-even the wife was pleasantly surprised! Moved some money into my paypal account and ordered longer wheel studs anticipating the need for some spacer work in back. The last ones I ordered from Summit were 2.5" long-found some with same knurl that are 3.25" long-but $33 a set instead of $13. Ordered rear CF BAMF flares from ZForceProductions (just want CF so I don't have to paint match). So far, email communications with Justin has been good-he had a set in-stock, so I don't expect a production delay. Gonna start researching the Kirkey seats and different steel bellhousings and get that stuff ordered. Checked back in with a seller for (what I hope) is a 3.36 R200-and seller has agreed to sell if I take whole car. That should let me stay with a 26" slick instead of going to a 28" slick-that should simplify some sheetmetal work on the front side of he rear fenders. I'm still running out of 3rd gear in the 1/8-mile and coming thru the timers on the rev-limiter-same problem all this year with 2d gear at autocross: hitting rev limiter a lot. Big internal debate is whether to put in a VLSD or CLSD carrier. I'm pretty tired of all the CLSD clunking I'm having, but I'm at least familiar with the CLSD and how well it performs. Can't attend ZNats at Barber this weekend due to family commitment, but I may be able to drop in on Sunday and watch the track day a little. Perhaps the expected bad weather will hold off.

Sunny-just got a solid lead on a 3.36 ratio R200. Maybe I can stick with 26" slicks and avoid cutting forward into dogleg. Will still probably flare so I can get that 10" tire on over bigger brakes. But perhaps I can avoid cutting forward...

Damn, that's a pretty car.