RebekahsZ

At what rpm? I guess I under estimate the effect of the bigger tires, but I have found most of those predicted charts to be pretty accurate. I also wanna see what effect the longer legs have on your n/a 60' times. What 1/4-mile trap speed are you predicting? Is there no 1/8- mile track close by? I've been really surprised that (with as slow a shifter as I am) I'm not losing ground to an auto with similar power/wt ratio. I have had SO much fun racing the white z in my videos, and the camera positioned to shoot across my cockpit to see the car next to me have been really educational. I'd kind of like it if he were a tenth or two faster so it would really become a drivers' race. I think my car is what it is for at least the next year, but I am a BIG fan and jealous.

SunnyZ-what is your rear static camber?

Oh, that was harsh.... Somebody is all cocky from last night! I got a feelin' your parts breakin' days aren't over. Somebody with the screen name "Sunny" callin' somebody Nancy!

If the fronts improved with bleeding, try bleeding the rears.

I wonder what the effect of the preload is on the effective spring rate.

Yeah, I hear ya. My car has very little mileage, but it almost all involved dumping the clutch near the torque peak combined with VHT. The right foot only comes off the floor to change gears. Unfortunately, that means it almost always goes from the trailer to the jack stands. This is the most serious so far, it is usually something piddly (like brakes-hahaha). I hear you on the axle loops-on the to do list. Kind of sucks that they have to be the same spec as the driveshaft loop. Honestly, I think we should have a loop on both ends of the driveshaft and on both ends of each axle. I first built this car to be a street car, but it is just too fast to really enjoy on the street. Pushing down the go pedal is like crack. Driving this car on the street is like kissing a porn star on the cheek.

Not sure how much is needed to clear brakes-should know early this week, but it will take at least some. But mostly it is to get the 5.5 BS wheel centered in the wheel well. I'm on a 4.5 BS wheel now, and I could come inboard a little, but not a whole inch.

My Desert Z disc conversion requires the bigger rotors (I guess that is the 1984 300zx front 4-lug rotor. Did you say just to have them turned down in the traditional way (on the friction surfaced), or do you make the rotors a smaller diameter? Do you know what the FINAL measurement needs to be after machine work?

What does he run now? Times.

Mine was rusty at the base of the chimney. I drilled out the spot welds that hold on the cover for the chimney, then I drilled the spot welds that held the chimney to the cowl. I ground out as much rust as I could. Now I have a million holes!!! So, I made a fiberglass chimney, then bonded the chimney to the cowl using resin and cloth to both fill the holes and hold the chimney in place.

Definitely-sign me up. I will get with Dave at AZC on Monday; he should have figured out my spacer thickness needs by now. I hate how the center spacers on the Welds gobble up so much stud-thang goodness the lug nuts have that long shank. It would be nice to have some spacers that are lug centric rather than flopping all around. I may need more like 3/4" spacer for the rear. That would give me 4.75" BS.

I just ripped out my carpets and drilled a hole in the floor and kept rollin'. Just kidding, sort of. I repaired mine with fiberglass. It works for now.

Wiping the drool off my chin. Did you use simple spacers or the ones with holes and studs? Source or link? Gonna need spacers myself for brake clearance. So loving that gray over my blue! Camber in back? Sent measurements and a couple of different pinion flanges to DSS; they have received package but we played phone tag this week without success since I was out of town and in meetings. Should get back on road tomorrow with just replacement yoke. Hoping your next trip to the strip is awesome. Looking for a photo with wheels up!

Ahhh. Spring rates? I've been studying my videos at slow speed and I'm spinning more than I thought. You have done such a great job on that car. Send pics of car with skinnies when you can.

That was fun!

The performance really is beyond my expectations.

LOVE it. Skipped right over 10s, did ya? Now go get 'em dirty!!! We may have to look at some aluminum control arm bushings-I spotted some rubber on the front edge of my left fender with 26s. I have some 15x8 5.5s to use if needed by the AZC brakes. Can't wait to see what your 4th gear rpm is on those going thru the traps. Should be low with na, but may wind out with the spray. Hope it is perfect. Looks like everything is coming together. Starting to feel the pull toward flares....I thought you hated Draglites??

You need to. Know how to identify an LS-7. Head casting numbers, intake, block markings, etc.

Doesn't matter. Front and back are separate reservoirs and totally separate systems. I recently bled mine. I did the drivers rear first and when I got to the passenger rear there was like one tiny bubble in it.

I have not removed the plastic plug for fear of it breaking when I put a wrench to it. I would love to eliminate it, but I'm afraid. Any tips to alay my concern?

I hope you plan to buy mirrors to put under your car!

Any new timeslips, SunnyZ, or are you still PW'd?

Old penny loafers-great for heel-toe! Plus you look cool when you roll up your jeans and put a cigarette behind your ear.

His wife probably gave him an ultimatum: "Put that damn car on eBay, or I'm leaving and taking the kids with me, you worthless, car obsessed bastar..." But secretly he has no intention to sell so he priced it unreasonably. . I would NEVER do such a thing!😜

Bench bleed the master and be prepared to need to vacuum bleed the system (something I learned from SunnyZ). Keep you vacuum pressure low and be patient. You really gotta get 100% of the air out and it can be a serious PITA. No room for error on that. Your clutch has to 100% disengage or you will warp your flywheel (done that). You can get by with as small a master as 3/4" (m1moel) or as large as 1" (me). 7/8" seems most popular. Your needs will depend most on available pedal stroke length. My stroke length (that just doesn't sound right) is limited by a short rod (digging this hole deeper) and an ovalized hole in the pedal. I took a shortcut on the rod and just used the 240z rod in the Tilton master. Next time I will modify my clevis to allow use of the longer rod that comes with the master because I have to keep my clevis at the very end of the adjustment rod). And I need to weld and redrill that ovalized hole in the pedal. Only down side to larger master is a tired left leg. Also your hydraulic throw out bearing has to be shimmed properly unless you stay with 100% stock components, in which case you will likely be fine without checking this. I learned all of this by trial and error and lots of mistakes. If you have trouble PM me. The "drill mod" and the need for a Tick master cyl are all bull if you ask me (ls1.com discussion topics). Finally, some of the Tilton and Wilwood masters are no good right out of the box.