RebekahsZ

I'm keeping a log on the Motorsport forum of how the racing is going called: "Learning to Drag Race a Z-car" if you want to subscribe to that. I am VERY inconsistent night to night. My best run has been 7.29 at 96mph (1/8 mile). Best 60' was 1.7, but it was not on my fastest run overall. I'm kind of all over the place in terms of how I'm staging the car-need a lot more experience. I have learned that the advice of running bias ply fronts with bias ply slicks is gospel truth (the tail of the car wagged really bad when I had radials in front with the bias ply slicks). However, with bias ply tires, the car does wander a lot on the fast end of the track making it more like parking a boat than an exact placement of the car like one would do in autocross. Wandering is distictly different than "wagging." A car approaching 100mph with the tail wagging back and forth is flat scary-like a trailer trying to jack-knife. Wandering is more entertaining than frightening, the car drives like it is buzzed from a couple of beers, just kind of sluggish. Racing a slow car can make one cocky, thinking that he is a good driver, only limited by the car, whereas, trying to be consistent with a fast car is very humbling. Had I been bracket racing on my last outing, I would have dialed in 7.50; I had two "shot groups" of runs: one in the 7.50s and the other in the 7.60s. I probably won't get back to the track until September. Got a daughter starting college, and I want to make a couple of big changes to the car's pedal setup and rear suspension.

😳oops. I guess you are right. Wouldn't want that!

I think you can take the mechanism out of the pressure differential switch. I just eliminated it.

Here's a vote for cut and flare. My fenders looked about that bad and I spent a bunch of money to get them "restored." Now I'm wishing for more tire clearance. Whatever you do, be sure to "roll" fenders before you paint. Someday, you are gonna want more tire.

A few before and after pictures of the Z-car: Before LS2 swap and after. The camaro never had a chance - and I was driving like c r a p. The new tires were a necessity.

Did nothing on Z-car today. Dropped my first born daughter (Rebekah) off at college 7 hours away. I couldn't wait to get back to the car - is there something wrong with me? Maybe I should start doing cocaine. It would certainly be more acceptable in my home.

Where are you mounting alternator? Any tunnel mods needed to use turbo350?

Any wheel will fit a z-car if you change to a straight axle with a transverse leaf spring, tub the inner fenders, raise the ride height 3 inches over stock or cut out the quarter panels and add flares. The answer to all of these "will such and such wheel fit" questions always has the same answer: "maybe.". If you want the answer to be "yes," then the max wheel for the question is 7" with 4.5" back spacing or zero offset with 225/50/15 tire.

There is NO pre-made harness fo swapping an LS-1 into a z-car. There are only harnesses for swapping LS-1 into a "generic" car. Some of the eBay,etc, aftermarket harnesses have more or less stuff included, for example fuse blocks and relays. Get as much stuff as you can for the money. In the end,you will have to modify whatever you buy. You will have to shorten wires that are too long and lengthen wires that are too short. Try to find a local LS tuner to reprogram your computer (which should come from the same model motor that you install). If you get your motor and car together, I can help you finish up. I would budget about $1000 for wiring if starting from scratch if you are not already experienced with LS-1 wiring.

Glad I could help. Much easier to coach than to "do. "

My whole setup is a gto pull out.

Sunny can you pm me your phone number again so I can call you for clarification? I agree. Even though I have bled and bled, I HAVE to have air in the system somewhere even though I did "bench bleed" the master. I want to be rippin through the gears like your video and growing as a driver. Little c r a p like this is eating me up.

I'm out of town till tues. pm me to remind me and I will look at my ls2 when I get home.

Boy, the profanity filter is really touchy. My message said to either (g r a it or (s n a t c h) it. That is pretty funny. Edit: I must have a virus; I don't know how that smiley face got there.

There is a complete R200 setup with axles driveshaft, mounts and mustache bar on ebay this morning for $229. Somebody should ****** it. (it isn't mine).

Clutch bleeding help needed. I may have the problem figured out. I have been bleeding from under the car using a remote bleeder hose. That leaves the slave cylinder/throwout bearing at a higher location compared to my bleeder outlet. Should I elevate the bleeder outlet such that it is up-hill compared to the slave? Maybe I still don't have all the air out of it after all?? Maybe by bleeding from under the car, I am failing to get all the air out? That is my next thing to try. Thoughts?

22 1/8-mile passes on axles. No problems.

So I rebled clutch with Motul rbf600 drove car to work and clutch felt good. Went to track last night and on first run I couldn't shift into fourth and coasted thru traps. Limped to pits and loosened the top pedal stop and lenghthened the master cyl push rod. Ran about 10-12 more runs. Clutch functioned but it felt like it always engaged or released at a different pedal heights. Spent whole night either spinning or bogging. Spun tires at lights and got crooked enough to lift off. Spun on a 2-3 shift and almost broadsided a 70 camarillo. Ran some 7.5s but mostly 7.6s. Anybody got a good recommendation on how to adjust the clutch pedal? Same as the datsun manual says?? Gonna tear into pedals and try to get this sorted out as well as putting together the 2-step. I'm making myself look stupid at the track and getting aggravated instead of having fun.

Swapped street tires for drag slicks in preparation for Thursday night drag racing. Pray for clear weather!

Thanks for fixing the pictures-perfect. Can you shoot us a picture of the alternator from the top side over the front left fender? Focus down so we can see how much conflict there is from front of mount to back of alternator. Options will include using a truck alternator using only two of the three mounting bosses, cutting off some of the plastic shrouding on the back of the alternator, or going to a high-mount alternator from a corvette or an aftermarket version. Screen name "Cable" is pretty good with that issue. We all have a little trouble with the alternator: it is just such a tight fit. I even trimmed a good bit off of the motor mount to get mine to fit. Problem with changing alternators is that they don't all have the same electrical plugs. Also, every LS model engine seems to have a different front to back accessory pulley spacing, so there can be incompatabilities there too. The underside of that car looks like it has been resting in a crypt full of dead bodies in a New Orleans cemetery-pretty gross. The underdrive pulley was on my engine when I bought it from somebody else. It has a sticker from SLP.

I'm eager to help, but your pictures are too big when I click on them and I can't see the alternator issue. Try re-posting with smaller file sizes, then maybe I can get the picture to fit on one screen. If only the crank pulley is hitting the steering rack, you could try an under-drive pulley to create more room. Try the pictures again and I'll try to make a worthwile suggestion on the alternator. I'm just down the road an hour and a half from you if you want to run down here and see a finished car.

Dude, you are crashing and burning. Take a couple days off the project or you are going to accidentally kick a jackstand and drop your car on your head, or take a hammer to the windshield in frustration. I can tell you are approaching the breaking point. Take two days off and get some sleep.

Love it! The general lack of rust on your chassis is amazing. I had forgotten what a PITA cleaning my chassis was-thanks for bringing back a long supessed bad memory. Was the Jegs roll cage kit a worthwhile endeavor, or did you have to re-do all of it to the point that the kit was useless? You've probably already considered this, but your brake line routing looks a little problematic for future serviceing of he driveshaft, differential and lower control arms. Any chance you could go up and over the diff instead of underneath it? Looking forward to the exhaust system. Subscribed.

Sorry, I'm a moron. You moved yet?

I like all of it except for the flipping and crashing. Wild, Wild West! Look expensive.