RebekahsZ

Probably broke due to the extra weight of your soda cup. Really, awesome video. Subscribed. Have you considered a line lock for your front brakes? Makes burn outs much more controlled. I'm really sorry your car is down. What tires you running? Best times/mph?

I'm really excited to find such an easy solution. If you stumble across your part number please send it. I will order the parts but probably do the work this winter when I make droop limiters. Thank you!

Which way would you have the check valve working? I would think that you want air to enter the tank as fuel is consumed or as the temperature drops and that you would want air to escape as the tank fills or the temperature rises.

Where can I get one?

I'm using the stock gauges and aftermarket fans using the ECM to turn them on. Low temp fan turns on at like 224 and the high temp second fan turns on at 239. I think these motors were made to run hot like maybe 239 degrees? That's about how hot mine runs according to the stock Datsun gauge. It is weird seeing the needle up that high (the max on the gauge is 250) but i did a bunch of searching and i think it is ok. So far so good...

That big as_ red TC rid bushing may be too big for the headers to clear as well. If there is a conflict there look at an adjustable TC rid that bolts straight to the frame with no bushing. That gives you lots more room. More money.....

That big as_ red TC rid bushing may be too big for the headers to clear as well. If there is a conflict there look at an adjustable TC rid that bolts straight to the frame with no bushing. That gives you lots more room. More money.....

That big as_ red TC rid bushing may be too big for the headers to clear as well. If there is a conflict there look at an adjustable TC rid that bolts straight to the frame with no bushing. That gives you lots more room. More money.....

You need to get to know BFCW too: big f-in' cutoff wheel ( or angle grinder. That was my #1 tool with BFH second. WLDT is wonderful little dremel tool is 3rd. Buy lots of those little fiber reinforced cutting wheels and a carbide cutter bit for slotting bolt holes that are misaligned. Some more cutting to do before you are thru with that mount. Use the next size larger drill bit to open the holes for the bolt that goes thru the LS motor mount. That sucker it too close tolerance and getting the bolt thru when installing the motor is a royal pain. I don't know if the powder coating made the hole smaller but it will make life a little easier later if you do that now. What headers you gonna use? The collector on the JTR sandersons rubs the back near the TC rod so grind as much off that corner as you can without cutting into the weld. Look at the long tube header thread. If you think you will want the long tubes 1tuffz had made, that mount needs a chunk cut out of it for that. I also notched mine for the brake line to have a little room so that it can be removed someday if needed. The passenger side mount is perfect out of the box. Damn alternator!

By the way, she IS a school girl. I gave her crap about it - she's blushing now...touch her and I'll kill you. Hoping to get to track on Saturday and try some of the things I'm being told. I have money saved for some bias ply front runners. I hope to get tons of runs in on Saturday to add data points. I'm gonna play with shock settings, tire pressures and driving styles. Then, I'll probably get that quick shiping from Summitt or Jegs for some Sportsmans and I'll try them the following week. It will be much easier for me to change front tires than back tires since I have to work around those tubes and rim screws in the back. jnjdragracing wears bias ply in back and radials in front, but it may not be an issue for him, since his front tires hardly every touch the ground.

Got one, johnc, just as you recommended. Pricey. There was a mix up and they sent me the shorter merge section. I'm gonna run it anyway.

Awesome car!

Great photos. Check to make sure you have the round, thick metal spacer installed per the instructions. If you do, I say take it off and trim the front end of it that inserts "inside" the old Nissan motor mount tower and slot the bolt hole in the mount so you can still bolt it up. I had to trim mine some. You'll just have to pray that the manufacturing error is on that end, and not on the TC rod end, so that your motor will go in straight....mine went in fine.

It looks cool. Go for it and post pictures of the final product!

Can you take us a picture from the top side but from farther back? I need to see the whole mount for context. I had to trim the front of mine and slot the mounting hole in the front end where it bolts to the old motor mount tower with a single bolt. JCI has a fair amount of "product drift" where the finished parts vary from the prototype a little bit. Just about every aftermarket parts supplier has some product drift. Lots of us have had the same problem with our tranny mounts. Post another picture for final answer. Subscribed.

Hey, that's my daughter you're talkin' about! Yeah, I'm probably gonna go to a bias ply on the front too. I'm getting conflicting advice on whether that matters or not....waiting for a reply from 1QUICKZ.

Study jnjdragracing. Look at his videos on youtube, check his posts, PM him, etc. He is running a welded R200 with CV axles. He told me today that he is running in the 5s (1/8th mile) and hasn't broken a CV axle yet. He's been running a "stock" rear suspension for several years. He's running bias ply slicks with an automatic trans. Was running a blown alcohol small block Chevy and is now running a dual turbo charged small block. He has broken stock u-joint axles; I don't know if he is still on his first diff or not. The automatic and bias plies may be helping. He stands by the need to limit squat so that the axles remain straight (no angle in the CVs) under power. Parts breakage has lots of factors beyond simple Hp and torqe. Track conditions and dynamic conditions like wheel hop, rpm for clutch drop, pre-existing casting flaws and component wear probably have just as much to do with it than Hp and Tq.

Having trouble keeping car straight at dragstrip (have only been the one time). Have PM'd several of our forum drag racers and have done a bunch of internet searching and research (for those of us who pre-date the internet: isn't this incredible!). The high speed phenomenon is called "sway" and it is associated with bias ply drag slicks. I've always wondered what people meant when they said that drag radials "handle" better than slicks. Well, now I know. Basically, sway is when the car yaws back and forth at high speeds. For us helicopter pilots, it is like when you are trying to hover in high winds and the tail keeps wagging and you are kicking your pedals like crazy. jnjdragracing gave me his phone number and I'll call him this afternoon for some tips on driving. It may just be me, but I can't drive the car any faster the way it is swaying. From his initial PM response, I think jnj is gonna tell me to get set at the lights and freeze my steering hand and try not to move it. I have read lots about needing to run ALL bias ply tires, but jnj is running radials up front like I am and is going SUPER fast, so I'm wondering about it. Anybody is welcome to learn about this along with me. Attached is a little video with Rebekah filming (She's the 18 year old saying "I know, I know, I know (her favorite response to any recommendation these days). Sorry the video is sideways. I have started a thread called: "Learning to drag race a z-car" on the Motorsports forum. A photo of my new switch panel I made to control my line-lock and 2-step is shown. I installed 2 other switches for any future use. IMG_0552.MOV

I totally forgot about that agony so long ago. I think the only bushing sleeve I didn't have to cut out was the mustache bar sleeves (which you want to retain). Screwed that up and had to buy another mustache bar. The SOB who sized all these poly or delrin bushings to fit without the outer sleeve was a sick bastarse.

After all the belly-achin' we've been doing: it would be great if every guy could post his progress or at least their excitement when they have these headers in and installed. It would also be cool if any associated dyno results and engine configurations (intake, cam, heads, down-stream exhaust system, etc) could be posted as we each get them. Blake may have to adjust his pricing (probably up) to make sure this is a win-win, but it would be great if we could keep this going; perhaps this is a product that we could keep available for posterity. Who knows, maybe Blake could do something crazy like sell his prototypes to Sanderson or Hooker and make a million bucks. Lets all quit belly-achin' about the gaskets, too; after spending $1200 on a car that is worth $3000 on a good day, we shouldn't be all that upset about a $50 problem. When I had my car stripped and painted 20 years ago, the painter under-bid the job and had to work in other jobs around mine to keep food on his table. A supposed 3 week job took 4 months. I put our header saga in the same category as that one. 20 years later, I still have a great paint job. And, since these headers are stainless (and some are coated), they should last us a long time too. As for me: I have build fatigue and will not likely be putting my headers on THIS car. It is 107-degrees in Alabama today and I ain't goin' in the garage, cause it is likely over 115-degrees in there! That obligates me to build a 280z-based hybrid in the future, maybe by then I'll be installing an LS-12 or something. That car will correct many of the do-overs I'd like to do on this car, and there is a long list. I finally unpacked the box of headers (see photo). My father in law is on hospice in our home, so everything is taking longer than I'd like. Well, the v-bands were left off. I just checked the sign up list and I did request v-bands. But, I'm not gonna sweat it since they'll likely need modification to fit the floorpans anyway. They are still so beautiful. Primary length is about 24". I'm keeping them.

I still think it's possible that you have the wrong part. Mine went together easy (15 years ago).

I have loved my GC kit for almost 20 years.

I see conflicting info on the venting or non-venting status of the caps. Perhaps someone else am weigh-in?

Aaaaaargh! I need another project like a hole in the head. I think I'm gonna use a rag for a while. I also figure id have to pull the cover so the tapping waste doesn't go into the diff. I'm off the thread so you fellas can continue.

Ford, Chevy, Datsun, or Whatever-it's all the same: air, fuel, spark. Run whatever works for you. Just go out and buy another ball cap and t-shirt.