RebekahsZ

Learned a lot this weekend, but problem persists. Rebuilt the headlight switch. Got new resistor - bot resistors check out with new multimeter, although the new one is smoother than the old one. Headlight switch has power when it is in the off position, no volts in ON position - must be a short. Gonna try to check each running light next, although I don't really know how....

Try it. I think either or both of those can turn on the "brake" light on the dash. Pull the handle and see what happens.

Ditto. Motul fluid ordered.

That wire is under the passenger seat.

Don't know. Are your reservoirs staying full? If so you should be ok. I think that light also comes on when the emergency brake handle moves some. Try disconnecting the e brake handle wire and see if that stops it. At least that will help isolate the problem.

No, I was just minding my own business running down the road, till I tried to adjust the instrument rheostat. Then I almost got rear-ended by a couple of 8-second Mustangs on the return track when I stopped to move a big rock that stood between my oilpan and victory. That's when I figured out I had no tail lights. Heading out to junkyard after lunch for a (couple) of headlight and turnsignal switches. Same crappy stereo for 10 years; it works fine but only gets one station because I haven't wired my stupid antenna (thankfully it is a pretty good oldies station-if you consider '70s and '80s "oldies". Been focused on going fast. This stupid distraction is really aggrevating. I was planning on re-doing my rear suspension this weekend.

Here's a link to a line-lock assisted burn-out. You'll see it is pretty gentle but effective in warming up the hides.

I'll do some more searching. I need to figure out a plan to TEST the headlight switch that I have and the one that I get. I hate just swapping parts not knowing what is wrong. Kind of reminds me of my previous live with triple side draft carbs.....

bjhines, by combi switch, you mean headlight switch, right?

Wow fellas - thanks for all the help. Circuit breakers = fuses, sorry for the goofed terminology. I've been searching the internet and the forum..seems like the wire to start tracing is the green wire with the white stripe. I found the green wire coming from the headlight switch loose (pushed out of the connector) at the big white connector. Got all excited. Corrected that but (damn) it didn't fix the problem. The green and white wire has voltage when the switch is in the off position, but has no volts in the on position. Seems backwards - what do you think...?? Working on getting another headlight switch. I hate just swapping parts, but alas that is my sorry as_ way of doing things. More advice based on above?

I was running down the road Thursday night and my dash lights looked dim (well, dimmer than usual), so I played with the rheostat under the dash. The dash lights then went completely out (the rheostat has been kind of sketchy for years). Later same night, somebody told me that my running lights were out, and dang it all, they were right. Brake lights work, emergency flashers work. Checked all circuit breakers with ohm meter and volt meter, all good. I went to the local z-graveyard and got another rheostat and replaced it. Still no dash lights or running lights. Did my drag racing with only the shift light for help, but did pretty well. Anybody know what the problem is (I already know I'm stupid, so please don't remind me)? Is there some commonality between the running lights and the rheostat? I don't know how to check the old or new rheostat properly. I do have a multimeter, just don't always know how to use it. Have wiring diagrams, but I missed out on that gene. Help? I got other parts of the car I want to work on!! and this stands in the way.

You asked about noise. In my car, they are totally silent except on gravel, then they are loud. You will hear a popping noise if your gland nut isn't tight or if the strut rod nut is not tight (both things that you would want to correct anyway). On the street, they are quiet, even on bridge abutments, center line reflectors, asphalt seams. I try to avoid potholes in general. As you can tell, I'm pretty pleased with them.

Aluminum just can't take muck torque. The diff will shift some if the bolt holes are oversize.

Donated about 5 gallons of blood to the local mosquito population trying to get an instrument rheostat from under the dash of a junkyard 240z. Very itchy now, but I won the prize. Hope it works???? Thankfully, no wasps.

I was "hot-lapping" at the strip last night, and by the 5th (and therefore, last) run, the clutch stopped disengaging bad enough that I could not shift from 2d to 3rd. I limped it back to the pits and hung it up for the day and put my street tires back on. Car had a while to cool off (all the drunks wanted to tell me how great my car is), such that on the drive home, the clutch was again disengaging well. I'm assuming the problem is heat. I don't know whehter the source of the heat is the clutch/pressure plate/throw-out bearing or exhaust components (I think there is plenty of clearance). Is there a heat resistant brake/hydraulic fluid I should use? I'm currently using AutoZone brand Dot 3 brake fluid. Should I have put this in the drivetrain forum? It is my LS2/T56/240z - that is why I posted here.

johnc can tell you the specifics of how the EMI "plates" and the DP "plates" differ design-wise. To me as the installer and user, they are the same. You have to communicate with johnc when you place your order so that any sleeving of the bearing (strut rod diameter) can be done specifically for your shock type and model. When you get serious and have your money ready, swap some PMs with him. If you already have coilovers, these camber plates improve your autocross a TON over stock and only take only an afternoon of work, plus an alignment to be back on the road. For me it was like night and day; some of the best money I've spent on the car. I was having trouble with pushing in turns, so I put the plates in the front. The car stopped pushing right away and I was able to steer the car with throttle. I didn't have to enter turns as slow or pile on the brakes so much getting into a corner. I don't know whether I would get rear plates next or an LSD...I got a subi LSD next (using johnc's stub axles). I have recently gotten DPs for the rear, but haven't autocrossed on them yet as my car is currently in a drag racing configuration and I will keep it that way until I shave 0.2 seconds and pick up 4 more mph in the 1/8th. These camber plates are somewhat "digital" as you adjust camber by choosing from available adjustment "holes" for your strut insulator bolts, as opposed to sliding a traditional camber plate in a slot. Traditional camber plates give you "infine" adustability. IMHO, it is much more important to go from zero camber to 3-ish degrees camber than it is to adjust from 2.7 degrees or 3.2 degrees. I was happy to get in the 3 degree ballpark and drive it. I had one front wheel at 3 degrees and the opposite at 3.25. I chose not to split hairs, the car drove so much better than it did when I had 0 degrees (and probably less in a corner).

PM johnc and ask him about them. He was selling EMI brand camber plates which are essentially the same. He had supply problems with EMI and switched to DP. Either I, or his website, is out of date. johnc = BetaMotorsports.com. Try a google image search on EMI camber plates and you will get the idea. If you still can't find it, PM me and I'll find some pictures for you.

Dropped ET to 7.2 at 96mph (1/8 mile) with these axles on bias ply slicks with LS2/T56. That is 9 runs without issues.

Went 7.2 sec and 96mph in the 1/8-mile on these. That is 9 runs with no problems.

Mustache bars are pretty cheap. Just buy the one you need. Post a parts needed ad and you'll have one in a few days. Most forum guys have a couple laying around. I just gave one to a friend. What year is your car? The mustache bar and the driveshaft have to be compatible. Early 240 bar with early driveshaft and late driveshaft with late bar. If you are wondering which diff to run: if you have a six cylinder I'd use the subi LSD. Just my thoughts.

I totally forgot about this...are you left foot braking? Once you get into second, left foot braking really helps smooth the transitions between throttle, brake and back again. Try it. As I squeeze on the throttle, I modulate off the brakes. As I squeeeze on the brakes, I modulate off the throttle. It totally smoothes out those transitions. You kind of ride the brakes, but not exactly...

I am (or was) mostly foaming at the mouth over that beautiful chassis.

Hang in there and keep creepin' on Parts for Sale, ebay and craigs list. A decent deal will show up when you least expect it. In the meantime, just limit the moments when you have traction and your welded diff will hold up fine! Smoke 'em if ya got 'em.

Great pictures. I think your car looks great - from the earlier pictures I thought it was gray; that 2-tone is sweet. What do you think guys, does he need some thicker swaybars? An awful lot of leaning going on....

If you don't spin out at least once, you probably aren't trying hard enough! Looking forward to your next video. If you can, move the camera inside the car so we can see how much you are having to "drive" it, because it looks great from the top of the car. The more you modify the car, the more difficult it will be to stay in a particular class. If you see yourself as the next national champion, worry about that stuff. But, if you are just out for fun (like I am), don't sweat all that PAX and competition stuff-just do your best and compete against yourself. I bet winning a national title gets pretty expensive. I'd love to see some pictures of your car - the roof and hood look great. That course looked pretty "open" with mostly sweeping turns, and the facility looks much nicer than what I have to live with (we have telephone poles with guy-wires, pot holes and even a few ditches beside our lot). Do you know how fast you were getting on the straights? What I love about autocross is the ability to lose it without much hazard of losing anything other than getting ribbed by the other guys there. We need a better parking lot; you could get seriously hurt at our facility if you aren't careful.