RebekahsZ

No not in parallel, just sitting there as an easy opportunity for a short. Took the fuse out of it; should be OK now. All good now, lets let this thread fizzle out into the archives.

Wow! I got a lot to learn.

SUNNY, what is the SC?

Make it easier for us and measure the rotor diameter.

I don't have a video to prove it, but I don't think my snap-in half shaft can be moved like that. Check with JMortensen and Savage42, but perhaps your carrier bearings are shot?? If they agree, it sucks to have to pull it all apart, but once you have it out, replacing the carrier bearings is not that difficult if you have a press - heck, you could always just take it to a machine shop to have them pressed on and off. Since you've been inside your diff, is it possible that you left the big washers off of the carrier, between the carrier bearings and the case? I didn't know Kylie Minogue was that hot, damn, I'm gonna have to watch your videos again.

Straight pipe. My car wakes the neighbors, but it is pretty quiet inside. I have a really cheap stereo and I can hear it fine, talk on the cell phone, etc. How long is the pipe that goes from your muffler to the atmosphere? I have seen lots of guy running a really short pipe there and that may let noise out too close to the underside of the rear valance, pumping all that noise out under the car. Whatcha think?

Sucked as much of the cheap DOT 3 brake fluid out of the clutch master with a syringe, added the Motul RBF 600 and started bleeding with my daughter on the pedal, my wife watching to make sure the reservoir didn't run dry, and me on the remote bleeder. We did get one large bubble out of the system. Unfortunately, the color of the DOT 3 and the Motul is pretty much the same, so there is no real way for me to know that I have a 100% exchange of fluid, but I ran about 1/2 bottle of the Motul thru it, so I'm hoping that between the high boiling temp of the fluid and getting that bubble out that my clutch trouble is over. I inspected the hydraulic line pathway and the line is no where near the exhaust. I think the heat is just coming from either the clutch itself, or just from under hood temperatures, but my cowl induction hood should be allowing a lot of heat to vent out. Will report back after next trip to the strip. Sure am glad I installed the remote bleeder line - made this task a snap.

Found the fault: a melted fuse holder. See pictures. The first fuse box I had in the car (when I bought it 20 years ago) melted on one of the tail light fuse posts. So, I found a newer one and sent it to somebody 15-20 years ago for an "upgrade." Well, that external fuse holder melted. Somehow over the years, I had placed a standard fuse in the fuse block-that is why it showed volts on each end, but in fact, the green/white wire was no longer even attached to it! The green/white wire was attached to the melted externalized fuse-I was totally overlooking the externalized fuse in my wire chasing. I replaced the melted fuse holder today. After that, it was just a matter of putting the electrical system together. The gauges are still pretty dim, but the new rheostat is smooth; all the lights work. So, why did the wire get hot enough to melt a fuse holder? Maybe the burned contact in the combination switch? Maybe the marginal rheostat? There is a questionable ground on the left rear side-marker light according to my ohm meter, but the light still works - could that cause it? During re-assembly, I noted that my rheostat post has a little warmth to it... And, what' up with the dim instrument lighting? Any last suggestions before I get back to the dragstrip? Edit: the missing fuse is for my missing windshield wiper motor.

In case I ever forget to say it, there is always an implied "why" in anything I post. I'm here for knowledge.

duragg-is there an aligment shop that you can use to have your tires "true-ed?" It takes a special machine and not all shops have it. I had same problem on my daughter's jeep and truing her tires solved her speed-related shaking. I had replaced the shocks, had wheels rotated and balanced, replaced one rim, had alignment done, and replaced the steering dampner. It was a simple fix and was like magic-smooth as silk now.

I know your problem is in the front, but I had a bent stub axle in the back of my car when I did the disc brake conversion. I imagine that would have really been a problem had I not fixed it when I did (during mockup I noticed a lot of runout when I rotated the rotor by hand).

Boot me if this is not the right place to discuss this. I've only done two road race track days with my cousin at a really cool club track in his Wrx out near Dallas/Ft. Worth (can't remember name of track). He's also had a spec miata and a Radical, currently building a Caterham. I've only done some occasional autocross and drag racing myself. Loved the videos. My question: Why do folks seem to intentionally hit the inside curbing? Does that not really "upset" a car being driven at the limit of adhesion?

I don't think there is ever a valid argument for heavier wheels/tires. Lighter is always better - drag wheels and slicks are super light, much lighter than autocross or roadracing tires. Did I read in your thread that your R200 was "open?" I imagine that is your problem with wheelspin. I run my LS2 with a Z31 CLSD with 8.5" slicks. No wheelspin at all. That's 8.5 X 2=17" of tire on the road. Even at 11" wheels and tires, the most traction you will consistently have is 11". From the LSD, I've got 6" more tire width than you even though my tires are more narrow. Get an LSD and you may find that the tires you have are more than adequate. Just thinking out loud; hope that helps. PS-your car looks awesome, especially the exhaust. Gonna copy that.

Keep this thread alive and let us know what Jeff tells you.

12 years in uniform and 4 in the Airborne, my neck and back are smoked. I hate getting under my dash. If I can't get it solved this weekend, I am going to a reputable (but expensive) wire chaser in town. Thanks everybody. You can all stand down until I report back on this weekends work.

I bet a guy with a short axle has lots of issues of inadequacy. They make little blue pills for that now. You'll probably have to drive a car with a really fast motor to feel like a real man.....compensation.

Problem I'm seeing with aftermarket LSDs is axle spline count. Are there any out there that accept the Z31 snap-in axles? Specifically thinking about helicals...PM me back if you replay so I don't thread jack SUNNY's build thread.

Great idea - I had the same problem on my "drifting handbrake." Because of that, I put a permanent pressure gauge on the clutch master to ensure that it is "rigged" properly. No pressure on the master when the pedal is released and with about 3/4" slack. The Motul johnc suggested just arrived last night. Will get that swapped out Friday or Saturday. If I can get my little wiring problem sorted out, I should get to the track, maybe NEXT Thursday night and will report on whether the Motul helped or not. I may just have to bring my little cut-down open end wrench and adjust the clutch some during a night of racing...no biggie. Thanks for all the help - I love this forum. Now, can you just fix me to where I can live and work without sleep?

Why did your buddie want to get your slave cylinder tinted? I'm serious about getting shifting tips from you.

Look into a contraption called a "Duckie." One of the guys in my car club built a Factory Five "cobra" with a Duckie after he lost his left leg above the knee in Afganistan. If you email me at pkeiththompson@yahoo.com, I can get you in touch with him. It takes some practice, but he drives his cobra just fine. There is a little lever on the shift knob that functions like a clutch pedal. That lever actuates an electric motor and bellcrank on the clutch linkage (his clutch is mechanical. Works great. Don't know that he could autocross or drag race, but you can ask him. If it were me, I would get an electronic controlled auto trans and do the paddle shifter thing: It works better for drag racing, plus autocross is usually limited to a single gear.

Another stupid question. I see some test light probes that are sharp enough to poke thru the insulation into the wire. What's the party line on that? Is it ok to poke thru the insulation, or do you guys always go to the end of a wire segment at a connector to check for voltage/continuity? I'm betting it is gonna be a connection, I'll find it or be damned! Yep, checked bulbs. Hazards work.

Thanks everybody. Checked rheostat, checked switch, now I'm trying to go thu each light bulb now. Weird thing is that I'm not popping fuses... Question: If there is a short in the green/white wire in the section I am checking, that wire should have zero volts and continuity with ground, right? ..instead of 12V? Sorry, I made a C- in electrical engineering 30 years ago, I really struggle with the basics. Getting close to towing car to an electrical shop, but that would be so lame...

bjhines- Lets assume it is a side marker grounding out: What is the fastest/easiest way to identify the offending side marker (I worry that disassembling each of them, cleaning and reinstalling could be inconclusive too). If I disconnect each side marker one at a time with the swith on, should the lights turn on as soon as the offending light is disconnected?

BJHines-thanks for your advice. I have replaced and checked my rheostat: both the old one and the new one are good (the old one has some spots that don't work good, but all in all it was OK). I rebuilt the headlight switch per a thread I found: it was ok too. I guess the fact that my fingers were adjusting the rheostat when this all went down was just a distractor to take me down a lilly path to nowhere! Now, it is on to the rest of the circuit. You said you'd been thru this twice before. Any advice before I move thru the harness to the marker lights (it had just rained like a mother right before the lights went out). How were your side markers grounding to the body? I haven't disturbed them in years - it was 20 years ago that the car was last painted! I'm a real idiot on electrical stuff, so please use short words and be as specific as possible. With the headlight switch in the OFF position, the green and white wire has 12 volts. If I switch the switch to the Running Lights position or the Headlights position, the voltage on the green and white wire drops to zero...does that mean that there is a short or an open somewhere?

Good to have you back on line. You continue to be the energizer bunny.