RebekahsZ

Outcome?

I made new lines with the proper fitting on each end. Everything stock Datsun 240z is 45 degree double flared (female). The different accessories have different flares and nuts. I do not try to make my own bubble flares (male). I buy lines with the bubble already done then cut the Datsun end off and double that end. I learned to double flare off YouTube. You also should know that you might run into a flaring tool that is 37-degrees instead of 45. The 37-degrees is for AN lines. Just go thru it all and be sure you are using what you need. I used to only single flare but they were bad about cracking. You get better with practice. Check YouTube.

Anything special you have to do when down-shifting a faceplated or dog ring tranny?

Yeah. I didn't support at the bottom so it could flex over a cone, speed bump or trailer ramp. Mine is supported at the top. Hope to get close to 150mph this fall, perhaps I will have some pictures to see how the air resistance effects it. I hope I don't drive over it! Those pictures will dictate the urgency for some sort of splitter or lower support.

Mine sagged just from its own weight. I will try to send you a pic of my bracing next week. It was really simple, took a couple hours and I work slowly compared to other guys. Mine is unpainted. When I load my car on the trailer to go race, it scrubs a little. That's why I got the urethane-it flexes and doesn't break. But I still consider an airdam a consumable item, so I didn't bother to paint it. It would get trashed anyway. I had a painted airdam before and I was forever smacking it on something, so it looked crappier that my unpainted one does now. I would like to follow this splitter trend that is popular now, but I think I would just destroy a splitter pretty fast.

One other thing to think about. Most sanctioned road courses and many autocross clubs are starting to use dB meters to keep cars quiet. At my local SCCA facility, I have to get off the gas as I go past the dB meter or they send me home. That is with a 12" long oval Borla XR 3" straight thru turbo muffler. If I get more sound warnings this season, I'm putting an external accessory muffler on my car that will be like 36" long and as big as a garbage can.

I wish there was something as loud and deep as a Flowmaster at idle that didnt make your head hurt on a road trip. You really need to hear a muffler at rpm. I just learned the hard way that a roll bar can act as a sound transmission device to locate ALL the differential gear whine that used to be on the floor of the car to a location directly behind one's head. Suddenly the whine of a fiture dog-ring gearbox doesn't seem so undesirable.

I like the bare feet. Looks like an Alabama video.

I have a YouTube channel full of videos. Search RebekahsZ.

If you are just now starting, it is a good time to decide: "am I going 4-lug or 5-lug. I think I would like to have gone 5-lug, but I have invested in so many 4-lug wheels that I'm kinda stuck, unless I want to sell and re-buy. If I build a second Z in the future, it will be a drag race only car, so one of the first mods I did to it would be a 5-lug conversion to be able to access all the cool 15-inch wheels made for drag racing American cars. I agree with everything the poster above me said in terms of advice.

Holy crap-you could put my mother in law in there!

That car looks like it is squatting to drop a turd.

Johnc, thanks! Do you just stick that directly on the rubber dust boot? I guess you just inspect regularly to see that it hasn't come off? Or do we need to make a little shield from a beer can to stick the foil on? You know me-making things complicated!

How bout some day light photos. I hate pimp lights, but your car is AWESOME. Show us some under hood shots and close up shots of the car.

Whole 'nuther country.

The tubular structure looks so much like a Z car that I wish you could do all the panel work in lexan so we can see all the magic underneath.

What happens when your front wheels leave the ground?

This is when your frame rails is going to pay dividends. That, and as a framework for the SRA 4-link system I see coming next winter when you explode a CV with all that turbo power!

Left side is done, aside from cleaning and painting. After the car comes out of the body shop, I plan to take it to the strip at least once with the flares off to allow video recording of squat on launch. Then, I want to see just how low I can drop it before it rubs, cause its a dang pickle wagon right now. Body man hasn't sent any pictures of the entire car, but I bet the rake is ridiculous at this ride height. May have to raise the nose to compensate. Car may wind up looking like an altered 41 Willis!

You want this why?

More pics dude, more pics!!!

Post 'em when ya got 'em. In fact everybody: post 'em up!

A note for anybody putting extended studs in an aluminum spacer/adapter. Use the washer and nut method to PULL the studs in. I recently pressed some in and they went in a little crooked. Not a problem going I to steel-just a few taps with a rubber dead blow to align them. But the steel studs smoosh the aluminum and you trash the spacers if they go in the least bit crooked. NEXT time, I'm gonna pull em in.

Do the three pumps offer any additional safety? If one quits, will two do the job? Can you put a warning light on each one somehow? I guess I'm thinking NO2 worries. Maybe getting myself confused.

Nah, you'd have put your foot thru those rusty floors under heavy braking. Then what would you have done? You're just taking care of business. I've been wondering how you guys handle a turbo-d car on a road course. Do you just open up your waste gate to keep you from spinning coming out of the turns? Can the boost be managed to come on smoothly?