Mike kZ

I just read an article where they dipped a 71 Cuda, it had no doors, fenders, hood or deck lid on it, and it cost $1000.00. I think it was $200 ea, for the doors etc..Not cheap, but you have a clean slate to start with.

No, It was $800 total with labour, sorry about that, and yes that is with me handing the trany over.

bbbowtie, I just had my T56 repaired here in Atlanta. The only place that works on these is Southern Gear Co. in Smyrna, 770-435-1461. It's not cheap! Labour is $250 no matter what, then parts. Parts are expensive for a T56. My 5th and 6th fork was broken, and the rail assembly was bent, $800!! They also relaced the bearings and seals.

Sounds like a bad sincro. I had a trany that did that in third, as long as I had the gas peddle down it was fine, but when I let up it would pop out.

I haven't had a chance to drive it yet, but I did do the "bump steer" mods according to JTR. Also the rear has a Panhard bar, and the shock setup is angled inward at 10 degrees / , this should help for handling as well.

I used them, I wanted the engine to sit down lower. I have a completely adjustable pinion angle, so that wasn't a problem.

I bought my car in late 96, and began in early 97. I worked on it mostly on the weekends and some evenings. I took my time, and tried to detail things, so I guess that's 4.5 yrs . It's running but i still need an exhaust system. It's GO and SHOW, not budget

Try this: http://www.hotrodgraphics.com/partners/?PartnerID=11

I used Braided from the tank to the fuel pump, then from the fuel pump to an aluminum solid line up to the engine, then braided to the fuel rail. The same thing for the return line.

ROFLOL! Good one Lone!

Welcome to the Forum Ryan! I don't know much about rotarys, but if that is what you want, start taking a lot of measurements! As far as I know you will be the first to do this. Snellville eh? That's close to me, Lilburn.

As far as I can remember there is only a plastic gear in the trany, they come in different colors to correspond with you diff gears.They are easy to take out, and i think GM still have them in stock.

Thanks for the support guys!! $500+ for parts sure sounds steep to me. I'm going to call Chevy parts today and check that. BLKMGK, This shop doing my trany specializes in stick shift tranys only, and you have to take it out and bring it to them. They are the only ones in Atlanta. (Southern Gear)

Update #3 Just talked to the trany guy. 5th and 6th gear forks were broken and also the rail holding them. With the small parts kit (snap rings, shims, bearing kit,etc..)the cost will be $850 w/labour! ouch!!!!! He said I was lucky the gears and sycro's(sp?)didn't get hurt, that would have been $1200!!! Moral, of the story, don't brake anything in you trany it cost a ton!

Cool! What model Z is it? Post some pics if you can.I'd like to hear about the "eluding police" story.

The one you need is for either a 4 or 6 cylinder base model. NOT the upgrade one. I'd call them and ask what the width is, it should be about 24-25 inches wide. This is where I got my rad, they should have them.

Contact Ross C from this forum, he has a V8 in a ZX also. 280zx@home.com

Ya, I would do what Scottie says, start over. Something sound like its off.

Update #2: Just talked to the tranny guy, and he said that T-56s have a problem of sticking in either 5th or 6th gear, he has seen many of these. So be prepared just in case! . It's goin to cost me $250 in labour plus parts!

Are you doing the body and paint yourself? If so you have a lot of priming and block sanding to do first. If your just taking it to someone to do everything, then just leave it the way it is now. They will take it back down to metal to start over.

If you look around awile you can find a T-56 6speed for around 1K

Here's an update: I just pulled the tranny out and it wasn't as hard as I thought! It took me a little more than an hour, and I was taking my time. For those of you with T56s and you have tranny problems it's not that tuff to take out. I removed the drive shaft, and tranny cross member, then with the jack under the rear of the tranny, slowly let the tranny come down, while checking the fire wall to make sure the distributor did not hit. When I angled the engine/tranny enough I braces the engine and took out the bolts after the bellhousing (left that on). I pried it apart and disconnected the slave cylinder and backed off the clutch arm from the bearing. Then sloly brought it to the ground with my jack. It was realy easy! . On Monday I'll bring it to a friend of mine that owns a tranny shop, and see what he says. [ July 23, 2001: Message edited by: Mike kZ ]

For block sanding a radius like the wheel arch, I used a large rad hose that was close to the arch radius. For a smaller radius, use a smaller hose. It works great! This is as a backing for the sand paper. [ July 19, 2001: Message edited by: Mike kZ ]

Cool Pete!, you get to pick up your baby today, Bet you can't wait!