Mike kZ

Pretty much sucky stock! But I'm still suspect of the Halogen cases. I've also heard that the negative pin on the halogens are grounded to the case. If that's the case, all I'll have to do is put in relays.

I decided to test my ground theory, with the lights on I pulled appart the ground wire between the high beam switch and the light switch. By doing so if the cases were grounded, they should of stayed on. Well you guess it, they turned off . So for now I wired in an on/off switch in that wire, at least for now I can turn the headlights on and off. . Pete, have any ideas??

Well I think I found out why my headlights are on all time. I replaced my stock bulbs with Hologen cases and bulbs. I read an old post that I copied from zcar.com in 98 that said hologen cases are grounded! Since a Datsun switch is hot all the time, but turns On when it goes to ground, thats my problem. The case is acting as the ground so the headlights are on all time!! I guess it's relay time! Thanks for the help trying to figure this out, but by George I think I got it

No the lights are on with out the key in the ignition. I did check continuity of the switch, it was working the way it should. On the Parking Light side, Parking had continuity, Headlight,and Off..none. On the Headlight side, Headlights and Parking had continuity, Off.. none. [ September 21, 2001: Message edited by: Mike kZ ]

I did find out why my driver's side light was not working, the connector wasn't pushed in all the way. Now I have low and high beam on the drivers side, and just low on the passenger side(the high beam could be either the bulb, or corroded connection) But... all this is working with the headlight switch off!! I checked the continuity of the switch, and its working right. Somehow I'm getting power to the lights, that's bypassing the switch. . I do have voltage to the switch. [ September 21, 2001: Message edited by: Mike kZ ]

OK, I took appart the switch and cleaned the contacts, they didn't look too bad, and Drax the nylon nubs were in perfect shape.While I was at it I took appart the high beam switch and cleaned it too. Put everything back together and I have the same problem as above? .I looked at my Haynes Manual and noticed a red and a red/white wire that are connected at the speedo with the letters M.B. beside it. The red/white wire goes to both headlights and the red wire goes to the right (passenger) fuse for the headlights. Since I installed an Autometer speedo I thought I might have forgot to connect these wires, but I can't find these colors under the dash? . Does anyone have any ideas, I need headlights!

Thanks Scottie, I'll check my old one first, to see if I can fix it.But I can't I'll let you know!

Yes it's a 240, I didn't take a good look at the switch, but you say it's fixable huh? I'll take a better look at it. I do have your tech writeup on the relays, which I might just do. I do have Lucus hologen lights.I'm not sure if the switch ever worked, this is the first time I have power to them.

I have a weird problem with my headlights. First of all, my parking lights, indicator lights and emergincy lights all work. When I turn my battery connect switch on, the passenger headlight comes on, even with the headlight switch is on off. If I flick my high beam switch on, the head light turns off.If I turn the headlight switch on, nothing happens until I turn off the high beam switch, and the passenger head light comes back on. I can't even get the drivers side to do anything? I'm guessing it's the headlight switch, but it looks sealed. Are the contacts under where the wires are connected?

I used a Street/Strip suspension made by Jeg's. They were called Jegster S/S Bars. They are a great suspension for cars with low ground clearances like the Z. Now here's the bad part, I haven't seen them advertised in the last 5 catalogues or so. I would call them and ask if they still build them at 1-800-345-4545. The old part number is 550-41001, $299.99 for the bars. Front mounts, track rod,shock mounts, were extra. So are the coil over shocks. P.S. instead of using the track rod as is, I shortened it and used it as a Panhard rod. It attaches on the top of the dif, on the passenger side, over to the drivers side of the frame. This holds the rear end more stable. I also tilted the top of the coil overs 10 degree inwards / . This will help the car handle better. I did narrow the 12 bolt, and mini tub the wheel wells by cutting them in half and adding 4" of metal per side. I also took out the strut assembly and bracket that held it in. I also built new frame rails in the back to accommodate the shortened diff and suspension. I'm running 15X10 wheels, and 295-50-15 tires, with about 1" on each side for clearance under the stock sheet metal quarters. I'm not sure if the Jeg's set up will handle better than the irs, but with my 12 bolt I don't have to worry about breaking anything! The only problem is when I did all this I did not write down any measurements. Hope this helps!

Why would you? Once you go V8 you won't want to go back . The only thing I can think of is usually you have to cut out the stock tranny mount for a V8 swap, but I guess you could reweld it back on, or make a different mount for the L6.

If that's the body style your looking for, I'd say it sounds like a good deal.You could weld some patch panels on the rockers. Get the motor running first, and make sure the car drives well, that way when you go to sell the engine the guy can hear, and see it run.

I welded all the outlets in the tank except the one on the top toward the front of the car. I routed that hose to the outlet in the neck behind the vapor tank (which I removed). I then drilled a hole in the gas cap too. I haven't filled the tank yet, but hope this works.

How thick is the stock flywheel? The after market flywheel is at least 1" thick or maybe more. It maybe that thick to bring it closer to the tranmission for some reason.

Oh boy... forget about FI, that's a lot of work and you need to know what you are doing. First off, keep the air cleaner housing off, since it's burnt anyways. with engine cool, sit inside and pump the gas peddle 2 times and try to start the car. If nothing happens, try keeping the peddle down while starting. If nothing, stop. You probably blew the accelerator pump in the carb. You need to rebuild the carb. If I were you I would bring the carb to a mechanic and watch him rebuild it,too learn how. Or you could bring it to an auto parts store for a replacment. Good luck.

I have 2 finger widths between the starter and the tension rod. I'm using a small distributor cap and it's about 3/4 inch from the firewall. You should have plenty of room with one finger's width. My header on that side is about 1/4 inch from the frame and it doesn't hit.

Just busting your butt!! I'll check how much space I have when i get home.

That's the same starter I have, But I didn't have to grind anything off of it. I did use one shim when I installed it. I also clocked it one or two spots, but it dosen't come close to the frame, and turns over like a semi truck.

Henry Costanzo added some pancake fans to the bottom of the engine compartment, check out his article: http://www.Georgiazclub.com/tips/ztech/v8cooling.htm

Sorry to have to say this ... but it's about time! Maybe now people will be able to buy the fiberglass parts they want, and not have to worry about $1000 min, or a grumpy Dave!

No I haven't burned any chips yet, I wanted to see how my car runs first. He calls the surging that you discribed as blower roll encase you were wondering. Give him an email and see if he can help you, he's a nice dude! [ August 22, 2001: Message edited by: Mike kZ ]

Ross I've been in touch with Tom Harp, he knows that guy with the 34 Ford. Tom's got a Chevy II that he mounted the Pro-Flo into. Here is one of the emails from him. Maybe he could burn a chip for you. Mention my name, and my Z car he should remember me. From: Self <CELLBIO/MKRAETZ> To: Tom Harp <tomharp@pacbell.net> Subject: RE: Hello Date sent: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 12:08:23 EST Date sent: Thu, 08 Mar 2001 22:28:05 -0800 From: Tom Harp <tomharp@pacbell.net> Subject: RE: Hello To: 'Mike Kraetz' <mkraetz@cellbio.emory.edu> Mike Hi, Tom I found my chip number, hope it's the same as yours. It's 3523. That the same one I have. If you want I can burn you a chip just like mine, that is a chip with no closed loop idle for an automatic transmission. Or since you have a manual transmission I can also burn one with closed loop idle. Or both, just buy the chips. The closed loop modification is an additional non Edelbrock code change. There are also a few other modifications on this chip but I would have to check my notes to list them all. It has been several months since I worked with the code so I forgot some of changes I made. Well I guess that's why I write things down. I do not have a problem burning you one. I have the code on my PC. All you need to do now is find an electronics store that has 27C256 EPROM chips. The one that comes with the EFI is an AMD 27C256-250 Ceramic EPROM Chip. When I was shopping for blank chips I was only able to find Texas Instruments 27C256-25 chips from Halted Specialties Company (HSC) in Santa Clara, CA. They were $2.95 each. Just for comparison the local high priced Electronics store wanted $9.50 each for them. I think these chips are getting old and might be hard to find so the price might start going up. The -250 at the end of the chip is 250ns speed. Do not get any chips slower than 250ns. If you pick up some chips just mail them to me and pay for the return shipping and I will burn them for you and send them back in your packaging. No charge. I would work with the original chip first. Make sure it is up and working with no bugs. That way if you have a problem with the new chip you can blame it on the chip. What I am getting at is if you have a wiring, injector, fuel delivery, relay or any other hardware problem you might think it is the modified chip and not the hardware. If you decide to do it just email me to let me know. Tom Harp Tom, do you think I need both chips? Like you said I'm running a manual tranny. I found Halted Specialties on the net. If I order the chips, can I send them directly to you? Did you ever figure out the blower roll problem? Thanks again, Mike

I replaced the large spring with one of the same diameter but weaker, then eliminated the solinoid assembly. You can feel resistance going into reverse, but nowhere near a two handed shift. [ August 21, 2001: Message edited by: Mike kZ ]