Mike kZ

That's my car! What do you need to know? I used a Street/Strip suspension made by Jeg's. They were called Jegster S/S Bars. They are a great suspension for cars with low ground clearances like the Z. Now here's the bad part, I haven't seen them advertised in the last 5 catalogues or so. I would call them and ask if they still build them at 1-800-345-4545. The old part number is 550-41001, $299.99 for the bars. Front mounts, track rod,shock mounts, were extra. So are the coil over shocks. P.S. instead of using the track rod as is, I shortened it and used it as a Panhard rod. It attaches on the top of the dif, on the passenger side, over to the drivers side of the frame. This holds the rear end more stable. I also tilted the top of the coil overs 10 degree inwards / . This will help the car handle better. My dif is I think 45" hub to hub, but I'm guessing. What I did was, first mount the tires on the rims I wanted. After removing the old IRS, I rolled the tires under the car to see how much to cut out of the floor. I then cut the wheel tubs down the middle, and removed what was left, but keep them you'll use them later. Next I bought some 2"x 2" square tubing for the rear frame. I cut out what ever old frame that was in the way and designed a new frame rail per side. I kept the cubby holes, but part of the frame goes into them. I connected the front part of the new frame to the stock part of the frame that the old IRS was attached to nearest the front of the car (the forward part where the rear A arm was attached too). The back part of the new frame was welded to the bumper frame, I also added some small sections from the new to what was left of the old frame. I also made some frame connectors out of 1 1/2 x 3" tubing to connect the front frame at the firewall to the same stock rear frame the new frame rails are welded too. These will be used for the front mounting point of the S/S bars. I made sure I had between 3/4 to 1" clearance between the tire and fender, and tire and frame. I made a small hump in the new frame over the dif for suspension clearance. You can see the floor is higher in some of the pics at my site.

Sounds like you got some good deals! The only question I've got is what year is the T56 from. If it's from 93 to 97 you're alright, if it's newer it is from an LS1 and it won't fit your engine.

It looks like someone is making these. Weren't the originals made out of metal?

You need the 20" core one. It's about 24" wide total, and this rad will fit between the frame rails. The 23" and 26" core Camero rads will not!

It does require a JTR bracket to support it on the bottom, and a Camero or custom bracket on the top. Either bracket can be custom made, but you need to use the GM rubber isolators to hold the tank.

quote: Originally posted by Mike kZ: I would do frame connectors, and a cage, that should stiffen things up enough.

I would do frame connectors, and a cage, that sould stiffen things up enough.

That would work for me, I've been using "Miscellaneous Tech" for my electrical needs.

Did you look under there yet? You might have just bent the shifting mechanism on the trany. Or maybe streched or kinked the cable from the shifter

I've done this exact thing you want to do to my 240Z tank. I had to modify the sump a little at the back, it was too long, I had to cut small slits and bend the back up to match the tank. As per the instructions you have to cut about 5 ,2" holes on the bottom of the tank, then place the sump over the holes and weld. Make sure you hot tank it first!! Question 1 , yes you can use a male fitting, but for the return line I added a small length of tube inside the tank to the back. This way you won't get turbulance at the outlet since they are side by side. Question 2 , I welded shut the old lines and all the vent lines except the one at the top facing the front of the car. I took out the vent tank, and ran a hose from the tank to the inlet on the down spout near the cap. I drilled a small hole in the cap to help vent a little, but I don't think the cap seals that good anyhow. This seems to work so far. Check my site there is a pic of the tank.

Alright Davy!!

You could use the JTR recomended Camero rad. 86 camero radiator from radiator.com part #965 I think. It's a regular duty.

quote: Originally posted by pparaska: Or you could put a T on the carb base large vacuum port (rear, on the throttle body) and run both the PCV and brake booster to it. Definitely run a PCV. Pete is right on about the T, that's exactly what I did. Do run a PVC on one valve cover and a breather on the other.

Way to go guys!! We seem to be getting more and more people switching over to EFI! It's the best way to go!!

Matt, since you mentioned oil in the radiator, and water on the head, I would suspect a blowen head gasket too. What did the oil in the oil pan look like? was it white looking? A propane tourch would help to get those rusted nuts, and bolts out. You said the head is still attached at the front, I'm not an L6 expert, but the timing chain and gears are up there, did you take those off yet?

Thanks guys!, I'm in the middle of trouble shooting my car right now.As I mentioned over at the EFI forum I drove my car for it's first 5 miles and it quit on me . It turned out to be a defective fuel pump, and Jeg's is getting me another for free! .I'll try my best to be a good Moderator!

I took it off last night and the fuel was clean. Don't know why it crapped out? Called Jeg's where I bought the ProFlow, and gave them the sob story. They are going to replace it for free!

Jim, Did you ever figure out the scondary problem?

As far as I know I hooked it up right, but I'm getting nothing. It could be my ground isn't good enough. I'll try a better ground first.My calibration button is hooked up, but when I press it when moving nothing happens. Lone, how did you have it wired wrong?

I have the Autometer Electronic Speedo that hooks up to the T56 VSS. It's not working. Does anyone else have this setup? Is it working OK? Is there a right and wrong way to hook up to the VSS? Help!

Well I finally took my car out for it's first long trip (5 miles )and it didn't make it! I was on my way to see my engine builder buddy and at 4 miles the car died, and I glided into a gas station. After tring to restart the car I noticed I didn't hear the fuel pump comming on. Checked the fuses, but they were good. Touched the pump and it was red hot! F#$%ing pump!!!Had to have her flat bedded home. Not sure I trust another Edelbrock pump, I've heard Holly make a good one. What about the Ford truck unit, anybody know if it flows 45 to 50 lbs? Is this the EFI pump from the Ford F150Van that we've all been talking about? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=597347458

It could be your MAS air, the thingy with the heated wire between the filter housing and intake. With my old Baretta I had the same problem with my idle, it ran rough because it was in "limp mode", to get you home or the shop.

How about Spintech List Price: $130.50 Online Price: $125.50 Inlet Size: 2 1/2 Inch Center Outlet Size: 2 1/2 Inch Center Case Size: 2 1/4 X 9 X 16 Description: You asked for it - you got it. The lowest profile muffler available today. Only 2 1/4 inches thick. An excellent muffler for those who like to cruise. Excellent flow rates,great sound and plenty of ground clearance. Description http://www.spintechmufflers.com/spintech/spintechindex.asp [ October 31, 2001: Message edited by: Mike kZ ]

How about gutting a wrecked Viper GTS, set back the engine with the 6 speed , Viper brakes and suspension all around, wheels tires, and anything else you can pirate from it.

quote: Originally posted by Jeff Rimmer: What static compression are you running with that engine combo? Your setup sounds amazing! Might I enquire as to how much you guestimate you invested in such a setup? I'm figuring I could do something similar minus the Edelbrock fuel system such as yours for about 3large. Though I must do the research first, how do you enjoy your setup? Sounds like a snappy little engine! JR I'm running 10:1 compression. The cost, mmm...I think the cost came in around $5000.I don't think you will get the same hp and tq without the fuel injection. I'm pretty sure that's what did it! Even my engine builder buddy couldn't believe the numbers from this engine, he kept it in his dyno computer to show others! and yes the responce of this engine is unreal!! It made my car take off like a bullet! By the way the cam specs are as follows: Magnum Comp Cam 270H-10 Hyd - , gross valve lift .470 int .470 ex 270 advertised duration 224 duration @ .050 int, ex 110 lobe separation [ October 25, 2001: Message edited by: Mike kZ ]