Mike kZ

Sounds like you might be running out of gas, did you check your fuel filter, and/or pump?

I you do your own work , and can weld, subframe material is cheap, maybe $10- $20. For that price, and the fact that the roll bars are on sale, I'd do both!

quote: Originally posted by Ross C: Have you got PN's, any other offerings by HAL? Is that their full name? I'd have to make new coilover setups on my ZX to fit 12's I'm quite sure (Z's are more forgiving). Sounds like a great 'winter' setup for me to run. Ross, That's all they say is HAL, don't know if this stands for anything. 10" springs 122-10-140/250 122-10-225/475 12" springs 122-12-100/200 122-12-130/250 122-12-175/350 the last 6 numbers are the spring rates, and they are all 53.99 ea. Jeg's phone # is 1-800-345-4545

These HAL's are coil over progressive springs sold by Jeg's. I'm going to try the 130/250 12" springs in the rear. They are $53.99 ea.

Pete, my Edelbrock ProFlo EFI is good for 450hp and it costed $1925.00, it come complete with everything you need!

Scottie has a pic, it's at the bottom of his post. Click on "Scottie"

Welcom Rex!!, You'll find all the info you need here. Before you ask a question, check "Search" probably most of your questions are already answered there, if not fire away!

Has anyone tried progressive, or variable rate springs? How do they work exactly? Do you need these springs in all 4 corners to work right, or can you just put some in the back? I'm looking at 130/250lbs HAL veriable rate springs for the back of my car. They say "that the lower spring rate helps allow the suspension to get weight transfer for a good launch off the line"

Thanks Pete, I figured I could do this at the tank instead of at the gauge, I don't want to get behind the dash again. So as long as R1 is installed after R2(between R2 and gauge)to ground it should work .

Pete, for the fuel gauge, I have the same setup as you. So R2 is in the wire not grounded at the tank right? Can R1 be at the tank between R2 and the gauge, then grounded? Also what values did you use for R1, and R2?

I had a '72 Duster that I put in a 440. Now that was a fun car. It was also my High School car, didn't have too much competition!

http://www.zcar.com/forums/read.php?f=4&i=38580&t=38580

Hey Charlie, you had/have some nice cars there!The stock rear ratio for a 72 is I think 3:36 in a R180 dif. These are weak, you need to upgrade to a R200 from a 280 or 280zx or a LSD (Posi) from a 300zx. There is a lot of info on rear ends here, you need to hit the search button. Or you could put in a solid rear like I did.As for chassis mods, a frame connector I think is a must, also a roll bar helps too.

So what...another 5 years maybe?? Just kidding. . At least you figured out the mystery!

If it's a Chevy engine this site may help: http://www.mortec.com/

'72 240Z with a fuel injected 327 and T56 6 speed. The engine was dynoed at 435hp, and 493tq! It has a Edelbrock Pro-Flo EFI and Trick Flow G2 heads.I mini tubbed the wheelwells and custom made the rear frame to fit a shortened 12 bolt chevy w/3:73 posi, moser axles, disc brakes, panhard bar, coil overs, Jeg's street/strip suspension. I also custom made frame connectors, and instaled an S&W 8 point roll bar. front: shortened struts w/Ground Control coil overs, camber/caster plates, 1 1/4" sway bar. It has AC, with a Vintage Air heat/AC system, Autometer gauges, cassette/CD radio. Weld, Rodlite wheels 15X6 front, 15X10 rear 295-15-50 rear tires

Here's your article: http://www.hybridz.org/TechA/0001/Painless%20Wiring%20HC.htm

Does this change anything in your Headlight Relay article?

Here is an email that I wrote to Chris form this board: My dif is I think 45" hub to hub, but I'm guessing. What I did was, first mount the tires on the rims I wanted. After removing the old IRS, I rolled the tires under the car to see how much to cut out of the floor. I then cut the wheel tubs down the middle, and removed what was left, but keep them you'll use them later. Next I bought some 2"x 2" square tubing for the rear frame. I cut out what ever old frame that was in the way and designed a new frame rail per side. I kept the cubby holes, but part of the frame goes into them. I connected the front part of the new frame to the stock part of the frame that the old IRS was attached to nearest the front of the car (the forward part where the rear A arm was attached too). The back part of the new frame was welded to the bumper frame, I also added some small sections from the new to what was left of the old frame. I also made some frame connectors out of 1 1/2 x 3" tubing to connect the front frame at the firewall to the same stock rear frame the new frame rails are welded too. These will be used for the front mounting point of the S/S bars. I hope you bought the front mount brackets, not the crossmember? I made sure I had between 3/4 to 1" clearance between the tire and fender, and tire and frame. I made a small hump in the new frame over the dif for suspension clearance. You can see the floor is higher in some of the pics. That should get you started P.S. I forgot, while your tires are under the car in the exact spot you want them (make sure!) measure from the hub side to hub side, and that is your dif length. You can use a 9" or a 12 bolt (mine was from a Chevelle). Another possibility is the old Jeep mail carriers, they have a Dana rear that is almost the right length.

Dan, since your coming down to ATL, you could try emailing Night_rider_383, he's a member here that also builds motors.JJA1614@JUNO.COM

Hey Owen, did you get your car running yet? I remember you were having a problem getting it to start.

You could try Art Morrison too. http://www.artmorrison.com/