Mike kZ

For the hoses, I went to NAPA. The bottom hose is part# 7856, and for the top I used part #8631 which is a lower hose off some car?, but I cut off the part that attaches to the water pump (large end)and it fit like it was ment to be there with my AC and Alt on top of the motor. Check pics on my site.

I just hooked up all my wiring and the battery. The parking lights and brake lights work, but the head lights don't come on? Fuses are good, is there a ground I missed? BTW it's a 240Z.

Did you check the numbers on the back of the block, where the bellhousing bolts to the engine? They are stamped on the drivers side. Also check this site it might help: http://www.mortec.com/

The first thing would be to build some frame connectors and weld them from the front frame to the rear frame. A roll bar, 8pt or more will help keep things strong. Also some strut bars front and rear would help too. This is just a start, but are some of the main things to tackle first. [ June 22, 2001: Message edited by: Mike kZ ]

I think that's great that you and your father have building cars in common! I wish my old man was more into it when I was growing up. He does all his own mechanics and is supportive, and in awe of what I build, but doing it together would have been great. Count your self lucky!

Ya it's definitely that roll pin that Lone described that sticks out of the hub of the wheel. It contacts that fork in the column.

240Z turbo filled his in, check out his site. http://www.eng.fsu.edu/~jthagard/ The purpose of the vent hole is to let the vent air, when pulled under dash, to flow even when the windows are closed. In other words the vented air coming in the car would not flow well with out the hole, unless you crack open the window. Hope this helps

No one I know, are you looking for a parts car? I've been in Lilburn for 10 years.

I'm not a member yet, but I do go every once and a while, with Lee (JuJu) who's also a member here. You can check out his car at "Member's Rides" or if you click on my link and look around, his car is there, it's his site. [ June 20, 2001: Message edited by: Mike kZ ]

WOW!, that was the longest intro I've seen! Welcome to the forum, where in Atlanta are you from?

Hey Steve, glad to see you back! No my car is not running yet, but soon! I'm just finishing up the mess of wiring .So you say the backup lights don't work through the T56 switch? That's strange, it's just an on/off switch. I wired my backup lights through that also, but I'm not hooked to the battery yet. By the way the door latch works fine!

Sooo what was the problem??

Check out this site for Chevy numbers: http://www.mortec.com/

Here are some pics FYI: http://zcar.com/forums/read.php?f=1&i=196833&t=196821 [ June 13, 2001: Message edited by: Mike kZ ]

You can get a complete set at MotorSport for $62.34. Part # 24-5121 for 70 - 78 Zs. Call 1-800-633-6331

I built a small pod that mounts on the column between the speedo and tach. Check my site and go to page 5. It's not a great pic of it but you can see it.

I know I've mentioned this before, but my small journal, forged crank 327, with twist flow heads , 270H Comp cam, and Pro-Flow EFI, made 435hp, and 493 tq, on a engine dyno! Those are big block numbers! Can't wait to get this puppy on the road!

Cool!! It looks heavy duty too Did you make the carts, or did you pick them up somewhere? [ June 07, 2001: Message edited by: Mike kZ ]

First off, welcome to the forum! For the speedo, you will need to have a speedo cable made with the datsun side for the gauge and a GM end for the tranny side. You can buy this through JTR, or go somewhere local. JTR shows which wires to use for a 280Z tach in a 240Z, but I'm not sure which wires for a 280ZX. There are some people here with 280ZX V8s, maybe they can help. [ June 06, 2001: Message edited by: Mike kZ ]

I looked into those 3 disk things too. They don't look like they will muffle much though. Maybe with resinator tips they may work.

BLKBGK: No I haven't fired it up yet, but soon! I'm working on the wireing right now. Pete: OK I guess I'll do the X pipe. I thought the H pipe would be easier since the exshaust pipes will be very close together, and any muffler shop can throw one together. Do you think they can build an X pipe? or do I need to go to Dr.Gas?

I ordered a Spin Tech muffler with dual 2 1/2 in/out, that's 3"X12"x18" that will fit under the drive shaft area near the rear end, from there dual pipes on either side of the gas tank to Pace Setter resonator tips. Spin Tech said this should flow very well. Hopfully it wont be to noisy with the tips installed. I will also put an H pipe or X pipe before the muffler.

Hey Pete, I did the exact same thing as you did. I mounted a keyed cut-off switch in the same place! As for the battery, I added a sump to the stock tank, then centered it. Where the thin part of the tank is, (where it hung under the spare tire well)I sunk a home made battery box in the floor with a lid. I'm also using a dry cell.

Thanks Lone, It's a Street/Strip suspension that I bought from Jeg's. It's very low profile so it dosen't hang down very far. They look like ladder bars but in street mode the right bar is ridged and the left bar pivots like a suspension link, giving you good take off without wheel hop, and lets you lean into corners without the stiff feeling of a ladder or 4 link. In strip mode you put in a large bolt on the pivot side, which makes it ridged also, now you have ladder bars. I haven't seen them in the latest Jeg's catelog so I'm not sure they still make them. They were called S/S bars by Jegster