blueovalz

I finally got my mouth built for the rear. The beast is finished and ready for paint (finally.......I hope.....)

It uses a mechanical advance, so I'd suggest that until the timing is down real close, I'd leave the factory supplied springs in the advance mechanism for now. I started out at 10 degrees advance, and then fine tuned it from there. For some reason (and yes the tape and marker were correct) I had to go to about 16 degrees initial to get it to run good. The MSD should not effect the initial setting.

My next (and most likely last) project will be a very small car using the Subaru boxer engine and transaxle put behind the driver to make a mid engine design. This configuration will free me up to create a body similar to the one pictured, or perhaps a scaled down version of the old CanAm cars. With Subaru finally making some descent horsepower, I'm much more enthusiastic about doing this.

I was under the impression that the typical "hot wire" used in AFMs had the capability to meter the air intake under a wide variety of pressures (densities), which would make them ideal for this.

Ah yes, I like it better already. And we could have the 'ZZ' dressed in the Datsun colors protecting the Hybridum against the purifying forces; those purests that toss and turn at night, sweating in unending nightmares they have of hiding THEIR hybrid from their more pure bretheren, fearful that they will be found out, and called to come out of the "garage". I say yes, YES.....YEEEESSSSSSSS.

Can I make the Zecret deocoder ringz?

Your R200 will be fine. I've got well over that HP rating in my motor, and I've still got the same R200 differential I originally started with. BUT, the weak link that did fail under racing conditions was the half shafts. After going through serveral pairs of them, I put in the ZX cv-jointed turbo shafts and never broke the drivetrain ever again. I'm running under 400hp with my powerplant, but some of the Chevy guys running more torque are still having good luck with the R200, so you should be fine.

I liked the "flatened" Sharpie behind the rear tire (cell pics). How many Sharpies, pens, tubes of catalyst, and whatever else has been squashed rolling my car in and out of the garage

It appears to be simply sheet metal screwed or pop-riveted to the lip of the hatch (JASCAR?).

I'll inject an opinion here. My suggestion would be to have the wide but short vents lying on both sides of the power bulge, where the inside edges of the vents blend into the sides of the power bulge. This was what I was going to do with a hood provided I left the L6 in the car.

The "one wire" alternator is one that only uses a single wire that goes from the alternator to the battery (at the alternator I believe a jumper is used for voltage sensing), but these alternators require a little more rotational speed before they "kick in" than the normal 3 wire set-ups. Also, typically, the larger the alternator (amp wise), the higher the rpm that they kick in at (1300-1500 rpm). Once they've kicked in, they will still charge the system down below the kick in speed, and on the smaller ones may countinuously charge until the engine is turned off.

It's been discussed here, but to date I don't believe it has been done yet (at least not here). I think the biggest problem with it is the extreme width of the motor as compared to the more frequently used V8 motors.

When I swapped out my L24, I believe it weighed in at 425 lbs. This was with all the ancillary parts still attached, and I think I had the flywheel included in that number too.

Wished I could help, but I went to a GM alternator (hisssssssss) when I finally installed one on my SBF. Regardless, the picture was nice. I always wondered where the top of the EFI manifold would be in relationship to the hood.

Sounds to me like a press leak. Just a tiny nibble to get the appetite up

Due to the firewall here at work I am unable to view the second link (uk). But the first one is attached by the six "torx" screws in the outside framing around the hinged door. These screws go through the bodywork, and have small nuts on the back side. If this is a product that I think it is, it is not aluminum, but rather a plated finish on top of a heavier cast (and textured or "brushed") base. It fits over the OEM gas cap, so it is only the outside door or cover.

That door looks like a variation of the Miata/Bullitt Mustang doors, and whatever other car is using them.

We better see some pics of this hybrid Hybrid.

I think Dan just wanted to inflict a little pain there. Shame, shame, shame.

Heck, you don't even need it at all. I used a 1/2" aluminum spacer between the two shafts (or joints) on either side of the coupler. Then I found that the shaft slides out of the steering column with enough spline length that the spacer was unnecessary, so I just bolted the steering column joint directly to the steering shaft that then goes to the rack joint, thus eliminating the coupler all together. The only thing is that the steering wheel will have to be removed and re-installed 90 degrees to what it was before removeal of the coupler. Here is the picture of the spacer, before it was altogether removed completely and the two steering pieces bolted together without the spacer.

Thanks for jumping in there. I'd forgot which ones I used.

I think that's what I did, but the JY guy just gave me a crap ZX hose that was cut just so I could test fit it.

I guess I should inclued that some time. The reason no reference was made to this subject was that it was not a problem what-so-ever. It's a bit fuzzy to me now, but I think I used the ZX hoses (SS braided later on) and it was not a problem. If I remember correctly, the ZX hoses went right into steel tube fittings. I just can't remember it being a problem (it's been many an "exhaust filled garage" nights ago when I did this and dain bramage may have resulted)

This is probably the response you'll get 95% of the time with any "shop" that you talk to when it comes to Hybrid work. This is where you must resolve yourself to either figure out how to do it yourself, or find a "friend" skilled and willing to help you sort it all out. This is the same problem we've all had. Somewhere in town there's a mechanic who will appreciate what your doing, and will help.

Thanks. Let me know if you have any more questions. Perhaps e-mail or via the chat would probably be better.