blueovalz

FWIW, I have used the smaller 8mm bolt flange for the entire lifespan of my hybridZ. I was quite dissappointed to find out (after fabricating an adapter for this flange) that Nissan had a larger bolt flange. With that said, the 8mm bolts have never failed (even with the bigg no-no of having the bolts threaded throughout the depth of the flange holes (instead of using long-shank bolts)

Took the words right out of mouth. You can always count on an entertaining photo from Auxilary.

Rice represents as much an attitude as it does a product. With the classic sports car lines (long hood, and passenger seats nearly sitting on the rear axle) that the Z has, it is, in it's own right, "different". It's like the term "muscle car". This term is generally accepted to mean the old '60s and '70 V8 American sedans. Yes, there are imports now days that can perform as well as the old muscle cars did in a straight line, but we don't call the newer cars "muscle cars". I would also like to inject an opinion (imagine that!) that in the old days, we let the car's performance speak for itself when it came to bragging rights. Now days it appears the number of stickers on a car, or the license plate bravado, barks louder than the bite does. This difference in communicating our car's self worth on the street seems to me, to be the point in time at which the term "rice" really started to take off. There, that's my story and I sticking to it!

Does boost add compression? It adds pressure as (has already be stated) to the intake system ahead of the valves. When the valve opens, a NA motor will have (depending on the motor's configuration and rpm), about 15psi forcing air into a lower pressure cylinder (a difference of pressure across the valve?). The turbo increases this differential so that now more air is forced past the open valve than would be for a NA motor. Thus, VE increases, resulting in an increase in cylinder pressure. Compression ratio will remain the same, but overall pressure in the cylinder will increase. A 9:1 compression ratio using say 12psi at BDC = 108psi at TDC (NA). Start off with a little more pressure to begin with at say 20psi (turbo), then the same 9:1 CR will produce 180psi at TDC. This is a very simplistic way to look at what is really happening, and leaving a lot of variables out, but it will give you an idea of what is happening. If nothing else, it will cause you to take pause and think about the terminalogy of compression, compression ratio, and pressure.

Mike's just trying to pass a little Halloween horror your way

Ahhh, memories that will live forever.

More food for thought. I am quite surprised about the claim that it's lighter than the 5.0L. http://www.gulftel.com/vnomsss/topnews/mikearnett.htm

I'm not current on modern protection systems, but can I deduce from your post that loss of/lack of oil pressure will shut the engine down on the newer EFI motors? Is he using any remote oil filter arrangements?

There was a string on this a while back, but I do not have the URL for it. A search may find it. From what I remember the weights ranged from just under 2300 for a stripped bare with a SBF 240 to about your weight with a complete car with your drive train in a 280.

My thoughts and prayers are with you Mike. My dad went through a similar thing last year and he's back on his feet (last night on the phone he was joking around about how he was feeling at age 70 and describing the "wreck" in the other recliner (my mom). It sounds like you've got a good relationship and memories of you and your dad. I hope I can leave the same for my son.

That's a book I should have and still should get. Thanks for the tip.

Yep, I'll get it out to you. If you (and Aaron) would (being this topic will end tonight unless it's started back up again tomorrow), please remind me to send you the text (it's only a couple of pages) via my e-mail. This way I won't forget being it may be late before I get home tonight. TomahawkZ; The plated steel sounds very similar to my method using aluminum sheet. The pieces pop off of it fairly easily too.

It's in the mail

I sent you a Word document of a write-up I did for someone on how I go about building my fiberglass parts. It's by no means "professional" fiberglass work, but with some thought and patience, the job can look "professional" when you are through. I've got some brief photos that will also help you along with this at Fototime (link below) if you have time to find them intermingled with other photos.

I wished I could give a good answer, but it's like a lingering headache that finally goes away. You alway know when you have it (light front end at high speed), but when it went away, you don't even realize it. The car drives great, but only recently have I started pushing it into the triple digits. It's as stable there as it is at 55.

I think it's a Girling, but it seems the bolt pattern for this and many other aftermarket MCs (Tilton too) are the same. This one matched the OEM bolt pattern very well and took a minimum of work on the installation (push rod behind it took a small amount of work if I remember correctly). Yes, Datsun used a 3/4" MC in their early trucks (which is what I used before finally having to buy a new one) that I believe were circa '69-'71?

I always like "a work in progress". Can't wait to see this thing with paint. Looks good.

Jens, If your friend's clutch pedal is too soft (lots of pedal travel should be associated with this too), then a smaller slave cylinder will help. But your post said it was not soft enough (too hard to push). To soften up the pedal pressure he would either need a larger SC or smaller MC, but this would lengthen the amount of pedal travel to disengage the clutch. The smaller SC or larger MC will increase the pedal pressure, but reduce it's travel.

I currently am using a McLoed hydraulic throw-out bearing. I found that a 3/4" master cylinder is just about right (I believe PParaska will verify his usage of the same size). The OEM 5/8" will be too small (IMHO) and require too much pedal travel.

A new seal will make the job much easier. I broke the glass using old seals (grommets), but have never broke one since I replace the grommet with a new one (6 extractions and installations without a crack so far).

I agree that any spoiler or whale tail on the Z rear end is an advantage. Case in point: I had to carry an 8' piece of 3/4" steel conduit years ago in my Z. The conduit was inserted into the car from the hatch up between the seats, and the front rested on the floorboard under the passenger side dash. Unfortunately the rear of the pipe end still stuck out past the hatch, so I simply allowed the hatch to sit down on the pipe, unlatched. Thus, the outside lip of the hatch rested on the pipe, the pipe then rested on the interior edge of the interior trim (roughly 4" inward of where the hatch lip rested on the pipe. This then created somewhat a lever in which about 7' of pipe was on one side of a fulcrum, and about .3' of pipe was on the other, with a small amount of force from the hatch pushing down on this short end (sorry for all the long description). Anyway (now to the interesting part), I got onto the highway, and as my speed increased I notice the end of the pipe that was resting on the floorboard under the dash started lifting off the floor. So I push the rational limits of highway speed, and very easily was able to see enough down force from the hatch (with a 4" high spoiler) to lift the long end of the pipe all the way up to the bottom of the dash. This by no means gave me any hard numbers (I regret not investigating this further), but was very useful in verifying the efficacy of a spoiler on the rear of these cars.

Pictures are worth a thousand words, and more. Recently in Scientific American, there was a photo of a nuclear tipped missile being transported through the streets of a town in Pakistan, past the street vendors selling chickens, people riding bicycles, and the typical squalor that one associates with this region. I just stared at the photo thinking......

We should also consider the effect of blocking off all this air in front, and on the sides, but leave the rear of the car as open as possible (a spoiler here may help even more) to allow this low pressure generated behind the car to be expressed forward and under the car.

I've often thought about this same subject being these driveshafts are so short on the Z. In fact, my drive shaft is only a couple of inches longer than one entire half shaft w/companion flange.

Can this also be looked at from the point of view of what the boost itself is adding to "assist" the piston movement on the intake stroke? With the lower CR/higher boost model, the piston is being assisted (pushed) in it's downward movement more so than on the higher CR/lower boost model.