blueovalz

The Passenger side is a total of 13/16" longer than the drivers side (1/2" on the axle itself, and 5/16" on the stub portion). The 1/2" is in reality the only difference in length once they are installed.

Hmmmm. I wished I knew where I went wrong. Considering that 92 octane is 6.4 lbs/gallon and 87 octane is 6.2, I still only get as close 36.42lbs/hour with wimpy gas.

Does a 370cc injector inject 370cc of fuel/minute?. There are roughly 3785 cc/gallon. Fuel weighs roughly 6.6 lbs/gallon. This means that there are about 573cc/pound of fuel or 1cc/.00175 lbs of fuel. Assuming 370cc of fuel/minute, this equates to .645lb of fuel/minute, or 38 lbs/hour. I'm not an injector kind of guy, but does this sound correct? Any FI folks out there that can help?

http://www.stangnet.com/mustanggtconcept/ Mustang photo of auto show prototype

When I bench bled mine, I used flexible rubber (vacuum tubing) tubing that was fitted over the bleed screws on the sides of the MC. Curve the tubing up and around until it dumps the bled fluid back into the reservoir that it's bleeding, maintaining a closed cycle of fluid movement.

I wonder if the strut rubber cushion at the top of the 280 is shorter than the 240 cushion is. Being the suspension pick-up points are basically the same between all the Z models, would this account for the difference in strut tube lengths between the two models?

Check this one out Ebay electric supercharger rebuttal

Neat photo. I have many times looked in Ebay for a couple of the T-bird or GM superchargers to do this very same thing for my dream SBF. They are plentiful on Ebay, and if one is patient, can be had for a nice price.

The reason you, I, and most anybody else works is because we would never subject ourselves to the humiliation of asking for a handout on a day-to-day business. Standing in hot or cold ass weather begging for handouts, and facing that kind of degredation indicates to me this person is either incapable of holding a job down, or would rather live in the streets instead of a nice warm home with a family in close ties. Either way, he (or she) has not gotten the blessing of a full use of their faculties that we take for granted. All it takes is a simple little chemical in minute amounts to be in excess or insufficient quantities and you have a person that cannot reason in the same easy fashion that we don't give a second thought about. If a beer or a drink will make this persons life a little more tolerable for them, then even though I don't condone that purchase, I will live comfortably knowing there's the chance that my "gift" is being spent on that, and move on. Too many times in my life I've been treated better than I deserved (and still do) to be. All I can do is try my best, within reasonable thought and conscience, to be this way to others, and then not dwell on it.

Auto body supply shops usually carry a sealant that comes in a roll that is a 1/8" or 1/4" bead that you unroll, lay where you want it, and then bolt the part on over it. It mushes down and seals the joint, and allows you to remove the scoop for what ever reason later on. Silicone will be pretty much permanent, so I'd suggest you not use it. Great job on the work, and as I see, you learned much about this work that I neglected to mention. You can do the front center tip the same way. Put down a small amount of tape for just the tip down on the hood, set scoop down on it, and add the glass just to that part. No need to do the whole hood for just a small part. Thanks for the pics. I attached my scoop by globbing on saturated mat onto specific areas above the flange you made, on the inside. Then at these globs I drilled and tapped them out for Heli-coil inserts (after they were hard globs). Then I just installed bolts up through the hood and screwed them into the Heli-coils imbedded in the flange. You'd be surprised how well Heli-coils hold up in glass. I used 1/4" ones.

I don't understand the cause, but I have witnessed the effect of well prepped bare metal being undercoated, and then years later having it almost fall off because of rust that developed under the undercoating in wide spread areas. Someone know why??

Many cars use a larger rotor in back. Swept area (even though the rotor is larger) may be smaller because of the narrower friction surface, narrower pads, and/or smaller diameter piston. Many use a none vented in back and a vented in front. Any or all of these variations will lead to a less effective stopping force at the rear than at the front, even with the larger diameter rear rotor. Many rear Z disc conversions also use the 280ZX (later models) rear rotor as well as the 240SX rear rotors.

This subject of the 300ZX may need to be reviewed. I need to be at the house to measure them but I believe the 300ZX (4 lug) are 10.8" in diameter from the factory. And as Mike said, they need to be turned down a small amount on the OD to get them to fit inside a 280ZX front caliper. I believe the 10.25" rotors were the 280ZX front rotors which were smaller than the Z generation rotors, but were vented. Then I believe the later 300ZX turbos (5 lug) had even larger diameter rotors (11.4") but do not have any info on them. Simplicity/cost options are wide, starting from this fairly simple OEM swap in Mike's post to another member's nice 12+" 4 puck, who happens to be named Mike too) aftermarket swap. It all depends on how much you brake you need (or think you need). Increasing the caliper piston size over the OEM dual piston calipers will require a larger bore MC to keep the OEM "feel" at the pedal. The '80 model ZX master cylinder will work for this also.

I'm not well experienced in powder coating, but I'll get the ball rolling. Try this site to get a little info on it. powder coating FAQ It's basically an electrostatically charged powder that adhears to the object that it's sprayed on (opposite charges attract). Then it is placed in an oven to melt and cure. Generally it is twice as durable as liquid paints (depending on which type of each you use), but the color choices are much more limited. Powder coated parts will chip. Now for the experts to chime in........

Carter (carbs) sells kits that include 3 isolators very similar to the Mercedes ones mentioned above. the studs are a 10-32 with a rubber cylinder (about 3/4" in dia and about 3/4" long) vulcanized between the two studs. I cut the noise level down on my Holley pump to about 1/2 the level it was before.

Obviously a question for the ages. I've given money and driven away happy in the fact I "felt" that to some degree I've contributed to the altruistic nature we have as humans. I've also given and watched from afar to find I've more or less been "taken". Sure, when that happens I become incremetally more skeptical about the next guy, but my cup (or garage in this case) runneth over, and in a couple of days, that $20 would be spent on something that I wont even remember. If it feels good, do it, and let it go. Our actions result in a myriad of events we won't even become aware of, and so I choose to be optimistic in assuming my actions will help others later down the road. This attitude has served me well more times than not.

Holy Conversion BatPete! An ITS convert? This ones for the books. Glad you found the problem being I've got one of those Holley Blue regulators in the back of my car. I don't know if this is the POS model or not though. Is there any special markings for that?

Just out of curiousity, what kind of tranny did you have and the tire size on the rear. I'm considering 4:11 gears with my T-5 5th gear and am concerned about the highway travel.

I don't think I can address that problem. On all of my conversions I always used a Z booster with the ZX MC (because the 240 does not offer much room between the clutch MC and the side of the booster). If you are wanting to put a ZX MC on a ZX booster, I would then think that this would be a "bolt-on" operation with no need to change the pushrod length. All of the 280ZX MCs had a 15/16" bore. I've also used the single and dual reservoir MCs and found that other than the different bolt pattern (horizontal vs vertical) the bore size and operation is the same.

Great! In your honor I’ve ripped a sacrificial amount of 2 ounce mat up into little strands, placed them on my Tesla Coil toroid, and zapped them with 500KV as an offering to the fiberglass gods in the hope they smile upon your adventure. This suspense is almost as unsettling on my nerves as Mikelly’s garage saga. I guess I need to get into the art of extended projects and share an essay on how, after 3 years, I’ve yet to get a bathroom vent that will keep bathroom dew point less than ambient whenever I take a shower. Tonight may be the night. I finally bought the brute of all bathroom vent fans. 300 CFM of squirrel caged, dim the lights monster motored, 8” orificed, supersonic air flowing, and mother of all vents. It may take a D-9 caterpillar and a come-a-long to get it up into the ceiling, but I will not be deterred. Oh yeah, good luck with the fiberglass.

The tip of the booster rod is adjustable. It will have a hex shape on the tip so that it can be turned (you may have to grip the rod with a vise grip). I inserted a small screwdriver blade (that was roughly the size of the pushrod tip) into the MC and measured the amount of depth of the tapered hole (that the pushrod inserts into) to the mounting surface of the MC. Then I adjusted the booster pushrod that extends out past the MC mounting surface to this same number. You don't want to preload the MC when re-assembling the MC to the booster. I'm a perfectionist and did the assemble/disassemble routine a couple of times to ensure the rod was correctly spaced.

This is almost as good as Ozzy or Anna on MTV. Keep it comming! OOOOORAAAAA!

The grease "hydraulic" method works great. Just make sure the "piston" (socket, extension, etc) has as tight a fit as possible without it sticking in the pilot bearing hole. Pack the hole and the cavity behind the bearing, solid with grease (wheel bearing), and then compress the grease by tapping on the "piston" with a hammer. This compresses the grease and forces the bearing out. On my SBF I had to fill the cavity and bearing hole a couple of times before the bearing came all the way out. The less air (which is compressible) the less effective this will be so be sure to make sure all cavities are filled completely with grease.

The e-brake does adjust the rear calipers. If for example the pads are too loose, they will not ratchet inward with each brake pedal use as do the fronts. The rears use a ratcheting device inside the piston area that screws the piston outward with each use of the e-brake only. And if you did not already know, the piston must be screwed back into the body of the caliper for clearance when doing the usual brake job of replacing worn pads (don't do the C-clamp thing on the rears 'cause it won't work).

I like it. I think I wood have gone for the "stressed" wood look so poplar these days. A light coat of Liquid Gold wood also be another option for a more finished appearance. When finished, it could be an excellent parade car at Goodwood. Can you imagine how boring life would be if we all thought the same way!