blueovalz

I went for the "Craftsman" of MIG welders, and bought HTP. It's not a well know company, but the circuitry and quality IHO are better than any of the "brand names".

I was under the impression that a center pivot float was better for the curvy stuff. Am I wrong? I ask because my afb has the fore/aft hung floats, and I thought the Idelbrock carbs were the same way. Anyway, I've used these well in side G's.

As far as OEM stuff, the early (4 lug) 300ZX rotors are the largest that can be backfitted as a pure bolt-on operation. This is to the best of my knowledge.

I put these rotors on the rear of my 240SX. I did not measure the diameter, but found them to be 1.25 inches larger than the OEM SX rotors, which would put it at about 11". Anyway, the 4 lug and 5 lug (turbo) are the exact same rotor except for the bolt pattern. I do not have the part number. If I remember, I'll measure mine tomorrow and get back (I'm at work tonight).

First off, these rails are spot welded (about every inch to inch and a half if I remember correctly). The rail "strip" is sandwiched between the roof sheet, and the interior structure sheet. To grind the rail until close would not work because this would eliminate the spot welds completely once you got within about .120". So if you back off, and leave even half of the spot welds intact, then you are looking at quite a bit of filler to accomplish your aesthetic goal. I considered the process of simply cutting the vertical portions off only, and then bending the entire remaining portion down and in till flat and flush with the window framing, but was concerned about the distortion this would cause to the roof. I finally decided on the continuous bead wire welding method. The first side I did, I did the proceedure in sections, and there was no apparent pre-stressed seams. On the second side, I felt adventurous, and cut the entire rail off whole, at one time, and noticed NO separating or widening of the gap between the roof (was not pre-stressed at all), and structural member. At this point I tacked it every inch or so, and then came back with a continuous bead. Then ground the high spots down (and made sure I left about .030" to .050" of bead still exposed (did not grind the bead flush!!!!) to ensure a good weld. Then the bondo went on. This was the hardest part and will require many applications and sandings. Even with my long history of bodywork, the compound curve of this edge is tough to get "right". BUT, when it is right, it's beautiful. Why some of my photos are temporarily unavailable is a mystery to me. I guess I'll send off an Email about this to Photopoint. This is the first problem I've ever had with them.

In choosing a rack from a donor carr, one thing that is surprisingly not considered it the need for a "front steer" rack (rack is forward of the axle). This in itself greatly restricts our options. I have done the Ford rack conversion, and am quite happy with it, but I think Alsil did a much simpler and easier job of it than I did. A post was made recently where an RX-7 power assisted rack was being investigated for Z car usage. Any new progress on this project?

The bearing will need to be free enough on the input shaft to be able to spin or rotate on it. It should fit into the flywheel receiver fairly rigidly, and be tightly held in place after installation.

The GT40 had a very distinctive note also. It had a rather elaborate exhaust system, which also was very short, and amazingly quiet for what it was.

Another plus is that the 240SX has a nearly identical rear end as the 300ZX. An R230 swap is as simple as changing the differential stubs to match the 240SX shafts. Again, the subframe is a bit wide and perhaps bulky to fit, but there is always a way to get around this (I should think).

The Master has spoken. And airflow vs orifice size is also determined by the pressure difference across the orifice (Just thought I'd muddy the waters even more). I'm sure there is a standard vacuum in inches of water used, but I have no idea what it would be.

Man, I wished I had that block sitting in the garage. A nice exotic swap like that would be very satisfying. Can you say fab'ri-kat'?

The only challenge in a one-piece hood would be trying to keep some appropriate amount of hood "under" the scoop at the side openings. Both for looks, and also to keep rain, wash water, etc off the motor. (those dang water spots)

Big difference. On my 240SX I swapped out the rears for 300ZX 4 lug rears. Click on "240SX brakes" at the following site http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumList?u=1541023 The 3rd photo is a comparison of the two rotors. The turbo had 5 lug, but still the same diameter.

Thanks for the fast answers.

Well, I threw the mongoose out the window and that was that. Seriously, unless you're drag racing with some serious slicks, you're not going to get enough traction to do too much damage anyway. Some effort on this site toward cages has been done, but I've always wondered what the "torque specs" of the rear control arms are if you had a senerio of unlimited traction and engine torque with a bulletproof driveline. Where would the weak link be in the chassis? The rear control arms or their mounting points, rail stiffness ahead of the firewall, etc?

The larger Z one (I used a '75) will get within about 1/4" of the clutch master cylinder without any re-positoning. FYI, this is the same size as the earlier Z 2+2 boosters.

Where can this "desktop dyno" be acquired. I've only guessed on my output, and would like to know if this is a fairly accurate representation of the actual torque (yeah, I know, it's a tough question)

No can do. I may be possible to insert a machined spacer in-between the two caliper halves (to widen the pad spacing), but this could be tricky without o-ring grooves, etc. It would be easier to do the other swap options instead.

BLKMGK, One cautionary note. I've never removed one of these type of nuts (grinded the peened part off too) that this did not affect or distort the threads in some way or another. Be sure to carefully inspect those threads. I finally bought the correct die after nearly siezing the new nuts onto the stubs trying to put them on. It was hardly noticable that they were distorted, and I felt the nut tighting up, but had no idea it would sieze on me.

Please pass on any information about what actually broke and the damage it caused if possible when you find out. Thanks

Yep podner, there's a new sheriff in town, and anybody that get's outta line get's rode outta town on a goatman.

I think all the individual pieces of BW transmissions have an emblem of a "BW" on them. It's kinda hard to tell that they are letters at first. And they will be small. If I remember, about 1/4" in size with the part number with it.

Datsun factory upgrade parts exsist from the 280ZX and the early 300ZX up to very nice aftermarket set-ups provided by one of our members. Of all the subjects on this forum, The brakes subject has probably the most populated. It will take some time, but do a search and read the information on front disc brakes and rear disc brakes. You will find everything from salvage options up to higher priced but still afordable new aftermarket options by SCCA (member name, not sanctioning body). The range is wide between both time spent and money spent, and there will be a lot of info there for you. This will allow you to decide the direction to go. Feel free to ask specific questions, because this is a broad subject.

The brake hydraulics is just like breaker-bar technology only reversed. The bigger the caliper/master piston ratio (in area), the slower the caliper piston will move in relation to the master, BUT, it will have more "torque" . The breaker-bar analogy is like using a longer breaker bar (bigger caliper). You will have to move the end of the bar a longer distance (more pedal movement), but you can torque the hell out of the nut better (higher clamping force at the caliper). This is why using larger calipers without using a larger master cylinder makes the brakes feel soft. It takes more pedal movement, but will lock up easier without as much muscle (again, the breaker bar). What we need is a good ratio that gives not too much pedal movement (feels like firmness) without requiring a Charles Atlas leg building course to bring the car to a halt. And the OEM ratio is preatty good.

That's the point he's making, they were NOT peened. The later ZX nuts where a self locking flange nut. But they still needed some grunt to get off. But you don't screw up the threads with it. I replaced my Z nuts with the ZX nuts, and my Z (and wife) couldn't be happier.