blueovalz

Love them. The brake modulation is much better (which surprised me as I didn't expect much difference). Unless you like doing this kind of stuff yourself, and don't have a lot of money, then this is a neat swap. BUT, there are a lot of aftermarket (one of our members here) rotors and calipers that can set you up for more money, but less hassle. The point, BIGGER is BETTER (my wife says that's not true, but we guys know better)

27mm socket is what you need. Also, a 1-1/16" is just as snug around the nut (even in a 12pt) if you have that one.

A floating caliper (with one piston) must be considered as "two" pistons when comparing calipers. For instance, The OEM Z caliper (2 spot non-floating) would have identical clamping power as a single piston floater (if the single piston has the same diameter as one side of the non-floating OEM design). So basically you just look at one side only for both designs in comparing piston areas.

Good news.

Any shop selling the rebuild kits for the Holley carbs will be able to give you what you need. They are pretty much either double pumper or vac secondary. Not much breakdown beyond that.

That's a tough one. At first I thought the diff had a lot of excessive wear. Were you backing up in a straight line or turning at the same time? Could this be clutch chatter causing this (warped flywheel surface making the clutch "jumpy" when engaging it slowly from a stop) jumping, and if so, it would do it going forward too, indication mounts may be worn. This is all based on you comment that the diff IS good. You may also want to check the U-joints for excess wear (looseness) too.

Thanks a lot john. Terry

TimZ, the only locking type of diff I've ever used was a Detroit Locker, which was an "on/off" type of locker (I was very happy with it). I just was curious as to what charateristics the Gleason shows as far as the unloaded wheel spinning, breakaway torque, etc. Just general information about how well you like it or how well it works compared to a clutch type diff.

Canvassing the list for comments from any of you guys that have experience with this type of differential. It's a lot of money, soooo....

Yes, SOME 2+2 Z cars do have the CV-jointed half shafts. I do not know what the criteria is for which ones do and which do not.

The yates one I'm sure will pull good past 8 grand.

Glad to hear this news. No more two finger typing now.

Talk about two different ways to approach the hood clearance issue! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=597701621 then look at this http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=597666962 If this range does not cover it, nothing will.

I think that the spring rate used front/rear will also have a lot to do with your choice. My rates are the same front and back, and this is most likely why the front and rear bars are closer in size. John's numbers sort of indicate this may be true.

The best combo I had for the street (very neutral) was a 1.125 front, and .875 in the rear. worked very well, BUT, I think this very thick front bar was responsible for the frame rails starting to crack near the mounting plates. Anyway, I have nearly the same size front and rear (just larger arms on the rear which is equivalent to making it a smaller diameter bar) on the race car.

When you take the diaphram housing off, suck on the hole that goes to the chamber. The rod will or should move with very little vacuum. Unless you are running something in the order of 900cfm, you should, on a good run get this to open, especially with the lighter springs.

Thanks DavyZ. It sounds like something that I would want, even with the Ford rack already on my car. What is the weight of this rack?. The work that I've done with modifying racks leads me to believe the asymetrical end lengths are not going to be a problem IF, the ratio is within a usable range, and enough of the rack is still usable on the short side. I would measure the amount of rack movement you have available in both directions, and compare that with the Z rack movement, then compare the ratio or amount of wheel turn to achieve this amount of movement. I'll bet they are close enough to use. Sound great. Thanks for the info, and keep us posted.

For the longest time I used the '84 rotors with the 280ZX calipers. They are a pure bolt-on swap, but if you have anything other than the thin-flanged 240 hubs, then spacing the caliper will be more trouble.

Looking forward to the views. It does my heart good to see another "itcher" around. I just finished all my subtle changes to my Z this weekend. Now all that is left is the pimer and paint (probably next spring).

Without doing too much thinking on this yet, I would attempt to weld round steel plate (a big, thick washer may work here) onto the tops of the barrels at each end of the mustache bar. Then remove the studs that the mustache bar bushings slipped onto (they unscrew out of the subframe) and instead screw a bolt thru the welded on washer, and into the threaded hole that the stud came out of (I think they were like a 14mm fine thread, but can't be certain).

Sorry to hear about the radiator Ross. I know 200+ bucks is a lot of money, but I would have to go for another Griffin. They are all the time having specials on certain configurations, so I would call them first.

Look at the hobbie (craft) houses (Hobby Lobby is were I get mine). If you are getting it from a florist, look out!

A "block" or brick 3" X 4" X 8" of this stuff (I used it today to make a couple of parts to hide the rear bumper bracket mounts on the rear valance panel) is only about 90 cents each, or a six pack for about $2. They either misunderstood you, or were wrong.

Jon, I like the bigger one better. The reason is that IF I were to do this, I would make the duct width match the power bulge width at the base. Then, with the "point" of the power bulge removed, the duct would "flow" into the lines of the Z car much better (As DavyZ so well brought up). Also, the top edge of the duct where the bulge begins could have the same hood angles (from the top view) as the front of the hood has, thus making a shallow point in the center of the top edge. And the upper leading edge sides of the bulge could curve forward as they drop down to meet the hood to match the curves of the headlight cut-outs (from a side view) or match the rake of the windshield. Anyway, my point is this may work very well if you put some thought into making it match the rest of the car in terms of angles, curves, and impact (often overlooked).

Way to stay ahead of the game!. Thanks.