motoman

I think this is what your thinking of. http://www.theturboforums.com/smf/index.php?topic=140645.0 Here is another good one http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=58790

Thanks canadianz for that bit of information that was very helpful.

I went with an External FPR. I don't have the car running yet, so i can't really say much more. I was thinking of using something like this in place of the stock regulator. Edit: You might want to think about a surge tank too. That will help with the fuel starvation.

Time will tell. Oh by the way i like your throttle cable idea looks clean. I was thinking of using the linkage like you did, but i think i might try and connect it to the pedal instead.

"I think your question is will the heat gradient caused by the incoming fluid extend down to the outlet and affect the cooling potential of the the fluid leaving through the outlet"(wrcbonk). That isn't what i had in mind, but that may be another problem. Yes many people that are doing RB swaps are using a radiator that has the in/out on the same side. Almost all of them are whats know as a double bypass radiator. Here's how they work. As you can see there is a plate in the end tank thus blocking the path of least resistance. If the plate wasn't there the coolant would completely pass the radiator core. Instead it would stay in the end tank, and flow out the outlet. As you can imagine that wouldn't do much good. However this has nothing to do with the topic on hand. As the flow on a double bypass radiator is from side to side and not top to bottom, like the radiator you have is. What i originally was trying to say was that by moving the inlet over a little bit you are changing the path of least resistance. Which means that the coolant might not pass through the entire core of the radiator. Therefore it isn't being used most efficiently. Tony D if you could chime in on this that would be great!

Hopefully that radiator mod will work out for you. Isn't the return directly under that? It seems like that might not flow correctly with the inlet being right there. I don't think there will be enough resistance in the system for the whole radiator to be used most efficiently. Just my 2 cents.

Nice work! That car is truly a beast.

So i was reading this post i know it is from a long time ago, but it got me thinking. So we know that the Alternator on the Rb is a three wire internal regulator. Which means there is three places for wires to connect at; one for the charge stud, ignition sense, and battery sense. Four if you include a ground. The ground most likely isn't going to cause a problem unless its not a clean connection. My guess on what is giving you the problem is the sensing lead. This needs to run from your power distribution center or the + battery lead back to the correct position on the alt. I'm not sure which lead it is on the alt but is one in the brown plug.

Sorry to hear about the ecu not working out, can you use the old one for now?

I will make sure of that. At least its only 5 pounds!

Well it took me forever to finish this dash, I had to wait on gauges. Here is the finish product. What do you think? I still need to get my boost that is what the empty space is for.

That mount came out very good, it looks clean. It looks like that 240 used to be yellow,looking at the door in the last picture. Have you got it to start yet? It looks like it's very close.

The car is looking good. How much longer do you think that lovefab is going to take. Like ztr said it would be a good idea to mount it with rubber. A hard mount on a ecu can break electrical components very quickly. Did you end up keeping the stock fuel tank? A cool mod that i saw to the fuel tank was they cut out the old pickup/return and then welded on a -10 for the pick up, and a -8 for return. They took the old pick up and then had a -10 bent to fit in the stock tank. I'll try to find the link. Your going to run a MAF, why not a MAP? Especially if your bov is vented to atmosphere. Edit: here's the link Tank Mod

Thanks pat

Right now I'm wiring in my s2 rb25det into a late 73 260z, but i'm stuck. The alternator on the RB is internally regulated correct? Which means i can take out the external regulator that is in the 260z wire harness.

I got on Google typed in Rb25det computer pin out, and came up with this. Do you guys know if this is correct? Have any of you used it before? Edit: I'm almost sure that it is, i have been looking at other wiring diagrams, and pin outs. They all show the same wire going to the same pin number. Looks like its time to start wiring an rb!

How much power are you planning on making?

The FPR is only a single port return, I know you two both know far more then me in this area, but why should the FPR be placed after the fuel rail? After rereading your post JohnC i think i get what you mean. This is what it should look like right.

Before i get to far into creating this fuel system i would like to know if it will be functional. The feed lines from the fuel tank all the way to the fuel rail are an-8. After the fuel rail the line reduces in size to an an-6. The lines going to and from the vapor tank will be rubber. This is for a Rb25det that I'm later planning on making around 400-500 hp. Here is a quick sketch of my idea.

The main difference between a series 1 and 2 is ignition. On the series 1 there is a signal coil pack and on a series 2 they have individual coils.

1cc/1Hp is a good rule of thumb. I like to go a little over just to make sure you have enough.

I just finished doing my yesterday. I used a putty knife and a hammer and it worked great. To get the surface rust i used a combination of naval jelly and a grinder. I suppose a wire wheel could be substituted for the grinder. However the grinder made really short work of the rust.

The way that system works is crazy. I would make it so the flow from the boost would be at a 90° angle, with the path to the waste gate. Instead of the path to the boost dial.

When I go to upgrade my turbo I'm going to use a Garrett GT3582R - 714568 - 7 with a turbine A/R of 0.82. That should make for a fun car.

This is what i was looking at. Has anyone tried it before? http://www.rhdjapan.com/attain-solid-shifter-ecr33-rb25det-20699