iaconsultants

So is the rotisserie also strong enough to leave in the drivetrain and still be able to rotate without failure. Just thought it would be a nice way to do some work on the suspension, rear end and transmission fitting with the LS conversion.

We actually had the car in california a while and decided to have one installed (Wife loves it and the car). It works well. Here is what I emailed to goldenchild7801 "Some back ground on the power window. This power window unit is made by a Dutch company and comes in a few different sizes. I bought it at an installer that was in California when we had the car there and it cost somewhere around 800 dollars installed. They took out the old roof liner and made a custom one out of black felt wich they span across the top tightly. You might loose about an inch of head room to a sunroof but if you like sunroofs these are very nice. The glass top seals in a rubber ring and it can pivot open in the rear or you can press the other button and it will lift up and slide backward about as far as it can without hitting the hatchback. We had this installed like 3 years ago or so and it works very nice. It also comes with a roll up screen that is like a cloth with some small holes puched into it. This screen is built in and is good enough to block the hot sun from comming into the car too much. It has never leaked in water or anything like that into the car. The switches are located on the headliner right in front of the sunroof. The things I do not like about the sunroof are the following. At high speeds you can get air leaks or air noise from the sunroof being sucked upward as you are driving, it does not suck up enough to allow water to go in but it does allow the air noise. the speeds are like fast highway speeds. 75 and up and it has no other issues than that even at 120+ miles an hour, we proved all this out very well. A bothersome issue is when the roof is open at certain openenings and certain speeds you get an air cavitation sound that gives your ears the slight feel of being in a presurized cabin. The solution to this is slightly open or slightly close the roof a little more and it goes away. The solution that will fix both of these issues is getting a wind visor for the power roof. We are currently looking into that and will find out what works and install it on the Z. This should also help improve the aerodynamics of the car a bit because near the leading edge of the Z roof line is a poor aerodynamic line which a visor would break up well. If I were to do this again I would do two things different which is that I would mount the switch in the center console which just seems like a better place for it and I would have the roof liner done in leather instead of in cloth types of material (it would just look more finished in my opinion). I hope this helps so far and my wife and I will get those pictures out as soon as possible. " I might go ahead and try to post them in my profile here if I can figure it out quidk enough.

I have one in my Z and could take some digital shots and email them if you like. It works we on a 78 Z and slides out and over like Honda civics, but bigger.

if anyone is near enough to go look at it in person and see if it is worth it. It looks like fun, but I wonder if it has the top still incase of rain.

At idle the pressure in the water system is enough to pump water into the cylinder area that is closest to the water jacket. When you are under boost are pushing it a little then the pressure goes the other direction. Sounds like you have a streached heads gasket. Suggestion is to pull the heads, O-ring groove the heads and place crush wire in the groves. Add new head gaskets and you should be good to go along with the ability to run more boost without deforming your head gasket causing leaks. Also Automatic transmission fluid in the fuel or miked in the oil can cause the car to smoke white.

It is strange enough that I actually like it. If it were close to me I would probably buy it

What some people do to get some shade on their car.

Well if you really want to have some fun spread corn starch all over your tires and go have a blast. You will not have any traction at all and can spin the tires as much as you want but you probably won't get the smoke I would think. Are any of you guys going to video these attempts and enter them in some kind of a show like, Funny Videos, Myth Busters, or the Jack A** show?

I would guess he used bleach.

My vote would be for a Viper with a Sean Roe Supercharger setup. The kits is very nice and this guy is very good with these cars. About the M3, do you really want a car that will get beat by a 4-Runner from one stop light to the next over and over again. Well I guess that really is not a fair race based on that our 97 4-Runner is not what you would call stock but is street legal and a daily driver.

The car that I have seen you can buy a rebody for is the 69 Camaro, which is my favorite year of the camaro and it has a healthy price ticket along with it. They may have sold some incompleted cars when they stopped making the cars like they did with the old AC cobras (4 almost rolling chassis that I know of) and many others. But here is the link to the 69 Camaro for people that are interested also if you find a totaled out 69 collectors Camaro this would be a way to get it back on the road. http://www.yearone.com/enthusiast.asp?enl=1&enlSEC=3&enlURL=/Articles/tech3.asp?AID=72&WH=525

Mat73GNZ said what I meant when I said it does not do much. It might start but then it shuts down as quickly.

The company that I believe makes them for motorsports and others is called VPA their site I believe is http://www.auto-accessories.com/about.htm. The systems do work well and yes they will eventually stick a motor (you can remove them, rotate the small shaft to unstick it, and run them without load for about an hour which makes them work again for a while). They tend to be a bit testy if you are in a humid area, also if you install the system and notice one motor runs slower than the other then you know which one is going to go out so call them and replace that one. The kits will use almost all the window hardware you have and the installation is rather easy. You are basically attaching a drive gear/cable to your spline where your window crank handle use to go and then you simply mount the drive motor on the inside of the door where it does not come into contact with any of the moving window parts (mine is just in front of the door handle pull). These kits are more a universal type kit so you could install them on most cars you just have to use the correct gear adapter. A few small holes to mount the motor needs to be drilled and one in the door jam area to pass wires from the door into the car. Power door locks are even easier. Mount the poppers below the locking latch mechanism along the edge of the door. Go to the hobby shop to get some longer rods than they give you and I suggest a piece of rubber tubing that fits very tight around the door locking shaft and the longer rod, you can cement these together or even use a very small clamp (also can be found at the hobby store) and they work well. Also make sure that before you install the poppers make a bead of silicone on both ends of its dust cover so that dirt and hopefully no moisture gets into them to shorten their lives. Each popper that I have tried seems to always let go if I don't do the silicone and then they end up not working. I will say one thing women tend not to like the poppers because when they try to manually unlock the door they seem not to have enough strength to pull it up, just what I have come across with these aftermarket door lock poppers.

I would say the interest would be very high especially if you are willing to ship it. I noticed someone selling fronts here "http://classifieds.hybridz.org/showproduct.php?product=2263&cat=18&page=1" that looked really nice so if they are similar to that along with the rear quarters you probably will get some really good sales. How about post some pictures of what you have to work with and what they look like. I would be interested in something like the link to the Hybrid Z Classified ones and I am sure others would also but the big issue seems to be that many people that have them don't want to ship them for whatever reason they have. I say put them in a inside two big plastic bags, place them in a box and fill it with foam in a can and stick them on the bus for cheaper shipping. Just a suggestion to safely ship them.

Its hard to swallow that a car you put your heart and sole into along with a lot of money will not get near as much as you put into it. The numbers being thrown around here are what I would expect to see. If you had it restored as an original 240Z it would have probably been able to reach 12 to 15k. I would recommend ebay to sell it for the most money, watch other people selling theres and you will see the price does change drastically kind of like a sine wave. One time your car would probably go for around 3 to 4k and another time you would probably be 10 to 11k. I have noticed just after a National or regional Z event the prices go really high for about a month and shortly after that they drop like a rock. To get the most you will have to finish the car or it just will not go well, also if you are in a southern area you will need AC in the car or people just won't be interested. Good luck and sorry to hear you are selling that very nice nearly finished project.

Very interesting and I hope this really works out well. There is another option that you can look into since you have your Z hub. How about take all the measurments from the hub that you need to have one machined out of aluminum and 5 lug pattern. This could be a reasonable price if enough of the people on here are willing to buy them also. My plan is to have some machined with the spacer built in so that I can have easy time finding 5 lug wheels with no worry about using a spacer, since so many tire places will not deal with cars that have wheel spacers. If you need help with this kind of stuff let me know and I will do what I can.

I can not say what 18psi will do on one of those belts but I can say that 15 psi has been working for me just fine on my 4-Runner (its been reworked a lot when it comes to the stock 3.4 engine) The belt is really long and could almost be used as a jump rope. I would hate to go to the parts store and see if they have that one laying around. The supercharger setup does look really nice which almost makes me want to go away from twin turbos, but I am not just there yet.

I forgot to mention at one time I had Comp T/A 295-50 15's in the rear and 245-40 14's in the front with flares of course on a 77 280Z. The car could spin the tires in all 5 speeds but held on like glue in the turns. lots more was done to this car also.

Just to let you guys know this has been discussed a few times in different threads. But the way I have done this is go to Home Depot and get a small push button toggle switch that toggles each time you push it. I mounted it under the carpet along the seat somewhere (you can pick where to mount yours). If you mount it under the carpet it feels like a slight head of a bolt is under there and you can still push it to toggle it on and off. You could make it almost a fluid motion when you put your seat belt on. This works very well and has been done in many cars. If the car is fuel injected it does not do much. A carburated car will only go a very short distance before it runs out of gas (maybe out of your drive way and one or two drive ways away on a normal street, I have tested this a few times). I car thief actually tried to take one of my Z's like 15 years ago and they got out of the parking space and about 100 feet further and left the car with the door open and an old worn out Z key they used to start it. The old Z keys are one of the most common ways they take these cars.

Tire sizes is always an interesting subject. In the past I talked with BFG and GoodYear and asked them how this works and they both seemed to have about the same answer which actually makes sense. The senerio is two tires made of the same compound and tread style but one is a skinny tire and the other is a wide tire. Also the side wall are the same compound and flex the same way. What was explained to me is that if you assume the car weight is the same for either tire then the only thing that changes is contact distance. So a skinny tire will have a longer contact distance and a small width distance, which would mean it would have better traction front to back. A wide tire will have a short front to back contact distance and a wide side to side contact distance, which is better for side to side traction. If you really think about this it makes sense because the contact area of the same exact tires, just different widths, will have the same contact area on the ground. Since it is the same contact area the wider one has to have a wider contact distance and a shorter front to back distance. There are points that must be recognized which is that if you have a skinny tire with very little side wall verses a wide tire with a lot of side wall, the contact area can change because there will be a convex or concave portion that can make differences to the contact patch (just like under inflating and over inflating the tire). I hope all this makes sense to you guys and if not I would recommend just calling one of the tire manufacturers and they seem to be willing to discuss it fairly easily at least when I called that time they were. One thing about wide tires on the streets with grooves that are in a some what parallel direction to the direction you drive. The wide tires will tend to catch and track along a groove or edge much more than a skinnier tire does.

I remember a 350 chevy in mid 70's Celica, but I don't remember what they had to do to it. It did have a really small air cleaner and a cowl hood scoop on it. It sounded great and lit the tires up like mad. This car was in College Station Bryan about 20 years ago at a hot rod meet.

The movie was interesting but the more interesting part was watching the tickets being given the the punks soing really idiotic things in the parking lot and leaving the parking lot of the theater. Now that was funny because they where being pulled over right and left and they had to see the police lights while others were getting tickets and the police would point at them and direct them to the curb to await their ticket like they were waiting for entrance to an amusment park.

Real loaded question. I would say if I am at the customer site it would be between 50 and 65 hours, and the times I go to the sand covered bases in a couple of other countries it would be probably like 14 hours or so of field work and testing and then back to the base, but the travel to the base takes a few days. I have done those trips to many times and they are no fun at all.

It was really horrible for the people that lost the places to live, family, friends, etc. but the bad seeds (a lot of them) seemed to end up going to these big shelters. I was classified as a paramedic at these places also because for a while I did drive an ambulance and was registered. I have a lot of respect for the people that do these jobs and deal with the things they do. I am guessing I must have miss understood what 73turbo240z was saying or he miss understood what I was saying, because the statement still makes no sense. I also guess I must have met you at the center at some time because I was there a lot and actually to much according to my wife and friends, I was by far the tallest white guy walking around there. Just wonder did you see the two older black fellows with the very white crusty flaking skin and open wounds. They contracted leprosy (very advanced stages) by eating armadillos and the one had lost several fingers on one hand and all his toes on one foot. That was the first time I came across that before and everyone in the medical area was trying to keep them a bit apart from the rest and handling with care. Oh well I think I shall stop here since I don't want to get into any of the really stomach wrenching things that happened and I just sometimes felt like venting a little about what I saw working that stuff everyday of the week while it was there. Sorry about the venting guys.

I don't get the negative attitude toward the effort statement and the use of bad language, which their is no need for. I am saying that the people that came from New Orleans and surrounding areas displayed a less than wanting help that was given from the kindness of peoples hearts and emotions and was portrayed by many as we should do whatever they ask and excuse what they do wrong while we where trying to help them. One other person that I know that donated his time had a knife pulled on him while he was at the domb and his money was taken along with his watch and wedding band. This incident along with the ones I mentioned earlier where a common occurance and even when a few where caught they where just let go because they came from the flooded areas. There are a lot of things that are not known to the general public that have somehow found their way onto websites out there that actually explain how the people have taken this as a reason to do things that no decent person would even think about doing. My main statement is that many people helped in so many ways and gave from their hearts and where miss treated for helping people by the people they where helping. I actually took the raped helper to a hospital after I fouind out what happened. If you had not gone to help at the temporary housing they put up in Houston then you really have no clue how bad things where and how horrible people where treated that were trying to help in whatever way they could.