iaconsultants

Well Bill, Sorry to see you and your Z leave Texas, but sounds like you are going to do very well up there. If you have time to get together before you leave drop me a line and I'll head down your direction again. In any case lots of luck. Robert

To respond to this for fun and hope that the person gets what is due him. First there is a Las Cruces County in the very tip of Texas just north of El Paso, so there is a sight bit a validity to location, at least that is how some county lines show up and most is in New Mexico. There are so many Scam sellers on Ebay it is not even funny - just look under any 60's and 70 muscle cars. I have been looking for a Camaro and I would say more than 30% are fake sellers. One thing I did notice is that there are many that have some price listed and the letters bin posted behind it. When you try to respond to those with an email it jumps to the screen to log you into ebay even if you have been logged in before (this is a bs log in to get your account, which I verified with a bs test account I made to find out) The funny part is they do not change your password or where the email responses go to in this case. I was hoping they would reroute to their email because I have a very nice program to deal with that. To get around re-logging back in to email this you simply refresh the ebay window which allows you to email them directly without re-loggin back in and they don't obtain your info. What they are doing is creating an intermediate link between a real ebay screen and the one they splash to you. Basically once you select an action they try to get your info and when you refresh the screen you actually get to the real ebay page you want to view. These scammers are getting better and better with getting info and taking money from honest and trusting people. Just be careful, do not use the same password for ebay and any important accounts like paypal or your bank accounts. Generally try to use different case letters in different places and slip in a number or two in the mix. For your own computers that are connected to the interenet make sure you do not just leave your computers connected up and running over night or long periods of time were you are not behind it, because it is very easy for someone on the outside to get in and quickly. Best thing is just remember if it sounds like a too good to be true deal it probably is.

Check your grounds, it is possible you did not ground it well. You can use some allegator clips to make a temporary ground to see if that helps or resolves the issue. Good luck

Very interesting, can it also be sprayed more smooth so that it does not collect oils, dirt an road grime?

I asked a Texas State Troop friend of mine if it is legal to paint the car Chrome. He said you can paint the car any color you want, but if an officer feels that the paint color can be a risk for accidents for any reason they have the right to impound the car and not allow it on the road again in which case they can file a report with the DMV declaring the car un road worthy. Now this is simply up to the Officer to decide if they wish to do this or not. I asked my friend and he said that he would tell the driver they need to reduce the shine and reflection of the paint and limit their driving until that time. He also stated that if they gave him an attitude he would impound their car and they would not get it back. So at least you guys know in Texas it is up to the person that pulls you over and that you should be respectful to better your chances of keping your car. Oh before I forget, if the car was in an accident there is a good chance that this might be cause for being at fault for the accident. He stated a Pick-up with a big chrome bumper was rear ended in an accident and the car that rear ended the truck claimed they were blinded by the reflection of the sun. The pick-up guy's insurance paid the repair costs on the other car.

Do you have more information also? Does it stay running? Idle rpm and roughness?, does it take off like it is crawling or normal and just falls on its face at 3500? simple check might be to make sure nothing got sucked into the air filter or a lot of dirt. A few months ago, while my wife was driving she ended up getting a shop rag sucked in there, which was my fault, that is what happens when you are working on the car at 2 am to stay cool enough and being too sleepy.

If it is a relay problem, many times you can grab a screwdriver or wrench and give a hard tap on the relay and it will switch, which might get you home. You also might want to check your fuse, because it might have popped. How do you know if it is the switch, the fuse or the relay. If it is the relay the headlights will not turn on but the dash lights will turn on. If it is the switch or the fuse neither the headlights nor the dash will turn on. It is easy to tell if it is the fuse by looking at the fuse. Always before doing any wrenching or cutting wires know what is not working and then do the wrenching. Also if you are planning to cut and splice wires, I have a better suggestion. Just use some alligator cliped wires, pinch the clips through the insultation of the wire you want to make contact with (you can tape around that to ensure the connection in your drive), after you get it home you can do one of a few different things to close of the slight teeth marks in the wire - electrical tape, some glue, a lighter slightly melting it, shrink tubing and a hair drier, liquid electrical tape you buy at like a HomeDepot. Good luck.

I noticed your car on Ebay (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-Z-Series-DATSUN-240Z-Datsun-240ZR-BRE-RACE-CAR-LOOK-W-IMSA-WIDE-BODY_W0QQitemZ230029840187QQihZ013QQcategoryZ6187QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem) for 30K. Let us all now what it ends up selling for because I believe a there are several of us that would be interested in what our cars should be valued at and arround for a variety of reasons including insurance purposes. Mine is still a work in progress but will be there.

I posted this to another post also with similar issues - thing that could cause an issue with the tach is a part in the distributor, we used to call the stator. It looks like a ring with a star on it. Check the teeth on this and make sure the gap is correct and use a brass feeler gauge not the ones containing metal. If it can be magnitized then it should not be used to check the gap.

Actually when a piston land fractures, well enough of them, it actually causes not only blow by but in extreme cases will try and stop the motion of the pistons by allowing the explosion to expand past the pistons and into the crank case. This could and in my case did cause extreme bucking. Granted I fractured 5 piston lands out of the 6 and was running over 30lbs of boost to turbo pistons. The tach did jump all over the placeduring bucking. I limped the car to a place to work on it which still bucked whenever I tried to put a load on the car more than a real old granny drive. Another thing that could cause an issue with the tach is a part in the distributor, we used to call the stator. It looks like a ring with a star on it. Check the teeth on this and make sure the gap is correct and use a brass feeler gauge not the ones containing metal. If it can be magnitized then it should not be used to check the gap. Hope this helps.

You could also get the same symptoms if you have broken piston lands, which is the sapce between the two compression rings and the oil rings. To check this do a compression check to be sure. You should also see puffing from the oil fill cap when its removed.

Are you running an MSD? I had the same issue with a MSD6A years ago. It collected to much humidity and shorted out. Bought a new one used silicone to seal it up and the problems went away. Good luck

Very nice, so are you going to make more to sell?

I would go even to a finer grit sand paper. 800 would be lowest but more like 1000 0r 1500 black sandpaper for wet sanding. Get the base coats as smooth as possible and when you shoot the clear or possibly pearl mixed in then you can just buff lightly. The key is to get the paint very smooth by sanding (really just working the paint). The sanding will dull the paint and once you spray the clear the shine comes back in. It is very difficult to see orange peel in clear but easy with pigments. Just letting you guys know from my experiences. Good luck

I understand what you are saying about the blue and white one at the bottom but the red one just above is also very nice. I guess it has to do with that I saw some of the first Scarab kits, when they came out, with the full body kit including the G-nose on them and that look always stayed with me. If you are looking for a Z, I might see one that fits your need, since I tend to come across them on a regular basis, in all kinds of conditions, mostly because I am all over the place during the week and only home on the weekends. Also I have a feeling I will need the extra room in the G-nose since I am going LS twin turbo and it might just allow for some much needed space. I hope there will be at least one person doing the kit sooner, just because I want to know what the final product looks like so I can make the call at that time.

So Oldestzguy are you still ordering the kit and are any others also doing the same. I am just hoping that the guys kits are going to be good quality and fit. If they are I am in and I can only imagine others will be also. It would be even better if it comes with the G-nose as shown in your thumbnails. I wish the people lots of luck that are buying the kits and thank you guys for being the test group.

That is very very nice and that is the type of kit I would like to buy.

I have done several body kits, custom flares, and a variety of other car body modifications and I still have never needed to use bondo. In my opinion I would not use that stuff at all. Rust repair I would say replace with new sheetmetal or use fiberglass with gelcote and thicker primer. Anyone that has ever worked close or with body shop guys can spot bondo on a car really quickly. Yes I know bondo is quicker, cheaper, and less effort, but you get what you pay for. If you try to mold in the headlight extensions on the Z with bondo they will end up cracking apart. This is just a recommendation to you guys about not using Bondo because I have seen lots of those results and I have done some very nice cars with a few that ended up being show cars.

How about getting together with the fellow doing the IMSA Wide Body 5 piece kit. The link to the posting is below. I have a feeling that if you two get together and create the IMSA G-Nose kit it will be the best looking kit out there. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=113300

I would suggest with that kit that you fill in the 2 openings on the front side of each rear fender if you do not do an inner fender on them. All kinds of road dirt and rocks will come through there, I know from experience. I actually filled them in because I did not set it up for brake cooling ducting before installing the fenders. I only wanted the rears because I did not care for the front fenders and the rectangular headlights and the back brake in the body flow lines. If you want to add some strength to those fenders along with improving sound, then fill the panels with foam in a can. For this it works well. About swapping engines. The cheapest, easiest way will be going with a small block (350 chevy) You will need a low profile air cleaner and it keep the intake manifold low also and you should be fine with closing the hood afterwards. Good luck and that car should end up being a lot of fun.

I would like to know what rearend and ratio you are using and where did you get that body kit? Very very nice.

Oh man, how about what would the price be on a LS2 engine and a twin turbo set up that fits in front of the engine. I have been planning on stages of doing this but if his price is good, I am done.

Excellent job Cozy Z Cole.

I think your idea of covering the dash in leather is a good one. I am considering doing a similar thing but I am going to find out if I can get someone to cover a full dash cap with a slight bit of padding and then the leather on top of that. My original dash is not cracked but very heavy and with a leather padded dash cap as the replacement for the dash would be so much lighter and allow easy work when needing to work under the dash. I hope you do the leather dash because it seems like it should look great in the end.

The only thing I see about the truck being taken back the next day is that if I am not mistaken that either party can say they decided not to go through with the deal within the first 72 hours. There is some kind of impulse buy or sell law now. It is supposed to protect people so when they buy something like a new car, based upon the very clever sales tactics, then the buyer figures out they really did not want to buy the car before 72 hours, well legally they can return the car and the dealer has to take it back and they will be forced to take it back. Dealers try to get around this a lot of times by allowing people to keep the car and try it out over the weekend and when they come back in on Tuesday they only have one choice to finish the paper work since they own the car now. So remember to try out a car you have to fill out all the paper work with the intent to buy the car, which means you are buying the car that day and you will come back and finish the paper work when you get back. The sales people are becoming more and more a snake in the grass and you really have to watch out for that. Also, don't give them any information about you when you are looking at cars to see what you want. They will enter in your info in the computer, along with whatever you migh have said that they can use against you in negotiations including locking you into the salesman that was the one that just walked over and introduced himself to you. This locks you out of trying to find the hungry salesman that needs to make the sale to keep his job or make his quota. I have bought several cars and salesman do not like the way I do things because I don't negotiate at all, price is set, payments are set, end of story. A fun thing to really through a salesman on the defense is to say to them, very loudly so other's can hear, is "Why don't you want to sell me this car, the price is right for both sides, so why don't you want to sell it to me?" They get the gitters and start to freak out and tend to negotiat down some more. It is almost as good as when you go to France and eat in a resturant and say waht kind of crappy bread is this, it seems like old frozen bread you pulled out and heated it in the oven. Just watch how fast you get the most fresh bread they can get you and they will be kissing your butt the rest of the evening making sure the rest of your meal is better than they have ever served.