Thumper
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Posts posted by Thumper
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It is most likely a leak between the afm and the turbo or turbo to the tb. So I would check all the connections/clamps and all the hoses coming off the pipes.
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Other than clogging up cats and o2 sensors leaded gas won't hurt your engine. And if my memory is correct you don't have either currently so you are good to go.
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From my personal experience with my holset. I had the internal wastegate ported very very much to the max. I would have more boost creep at 12psi almost to 15psi. But when I ran it at 20psi I had no boost creep. So that tells me that the wastegate wasn't big enough at low boost but was at high boost. Any thoughts on this?
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Well today i went out and got some new tires only my 240z because the old ones on there were 10 years old....ya i had like no traction. So i get the new tires on and i drive home and im like damn those look nice on there. Well i went out to a friends house and i came home when it was dark, all the drive home i notice the car has a tendancy to pull to the right really hard. So when i get home i decide to take a look and guess what i find? A partialy flat tire.......Gonna take it back to the shop tommorow and find out what happen. A new tire shouldent go flat that quick. I guess i just needed to blow off a little steam, it just so stupid since i had it done like less then 15 hours ago.
I believe this would be better suited in the non-tech forum.
Also fill up the tires and see if they leak again. I've had kids once or twice lower my tires. Luckly they didn't slash them.
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More boost' date=' smaller wg? more boost = more exhaust?
I dont understand why...but I guess it's correct since there is a 1400 hp bmw here in Norway running one single 60mm wg.
[/quote']
Think of it this way. Lets say you have a fairly large turbo. And you are driving along and you have the boost set at 10psi. Now the exhaust gases are turning the exhaust turbine and thus turning the intake side. Since you have such a large turbo you need to spin the exhaust much slower so you have to bypass lots of air around the exhaust turbine. When you are running 20psi you need the turbine to spin alot more so the exhaust needed to spin the turbine is alot more. Although you do have alittle more exhaust gases being spent out not nearly the double amount of exhaust gases need to turn the turbine at 20psi vs 10psi. So you need to expel less exhaust gases at 20psi vs 10psi. Did I make sense? Probably not:rolleyesg
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If you can't find them in the wiring harness try electronic parts outlet. Its a local store down on fondren. Try yahoo yellow pages and give them a call and see if they have 5-6 ohm 25 watt power resistors.
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does anyone know how high the digital speedo will read on the 83 280zx turbo?
85mph same as the non-digital
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and is a turbo timer really necessary on just a stock system or is that more for one that has had a bigger turbo added?
Actually our turbos are in more of a need of a turbo timer than newer turbos. This is because ours are only cooled with oil. Newer turbos have oil and water cooling. This helps the turbo keep from cooking the bearings after a hard blast through the gears. But you don't NEED a turbo timer. All you have to do is after you have run half-way hard is idle it for about 60 seconds and then turn it off. If you run your car hard alot then this can and will get annoying so its worth getting a $90 turbo timer. Also with the apexi turbo timer you can input your wideband into and it will display your a/f ratios. So you can save on getting a gauge for your lc-1 or lm-1 or whatever brand wideband you have. Heck it even has a volt meter in it so you save yourself on another guage.
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my distributor has 4 wires, 12v +, gnd, 360 deg. trigger and 180 deg. trigger. which would i use to hook up to my megasqurit to get a firing signal from the distributor? 360 degree or 180? this should be easy because im guessing its similar to the 280zx distributors your using with the GM HEI? its for an FJ20 distributor also....not a L28
You would hook up the 360 degree one. It is green on the l28's. Good luck
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I dunno...
I think long time members such as Scottie should be able to post his GN7 times... I guess there is a fine line there on who should and shouldn't be able to post their times... Maybe a moderator should have to approve any non Z-cars based on their content contribution to the site.
just my .02
Mike
Didn't think about that. I agree there should be exceptions. But only at the moderators discrestion.
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I think you should pull timing after 100kpa. I think this in terms of absolute pressure and not boost. At 150kpa which is roughly 7.25psi for me and 10.5psi for you I will roughly have the same amount of air going in as you. So our timing tables should be able to be the same. Now if you were tuning off of boost pressure then yes you would be pulling timing at a different time then me but since we are running map no need. I hope this makes sense.
Also I found you can run alot more timing under vacuum then you are running. The next chance I get i'll post my timing map.
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I believe pnypwr has a 300zx with a lincoln v8 in it. So it is kindof Z related. But I agree we should keep the timeslips to a z only thing.
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Do not plug this up. If you do you will blow your oil seals and pop your oil dipstick up. You can either just leave it open which will through oil places, or you can put a filter on it but air is coming out so it won't help that much. Or you can run it to a ventilated catch can. I know someone who ran it with just a filter on it and never had any trouble.
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http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=102244 Look at the second picture/diagram. Good luck
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[dunce'] yeah so i was outta gas. [/dunce]
Oops. Well welcome to the club. Don't worry i'm a member. Glad you got it running though.
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=106774&highlight=worse
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36,177,334,150 240Zs (on average).
I got the same using a 240z spec of 162.8 inches and a distance of 92,955,820.5 miles.
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The monte looked like it was running a high 11's all motor and low 10's on the juice. The z was running mid 12's and I believe they were running all out on the 4th non-nitrous run or atleast most of the way.
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Fuel pressure at idle should be around 30psi. Under no vacuum 37psi. First I would put a screwdrive up to every injector and make sure they are all firing. If they aren't then I would check your wiring. Find the injector that isn't working and switch the injector cap with another injector cap that is working. If that injector starts working then its the wiring if it still doesn't work then its the injector. Then you should with the car in the on position get 12 volts at every injector. If you are getting that then you need to trace the other wire all the way back to the ecu and make sure it hasn't been cut or grounded out.
It could also be a clogged fuel filter, bad fuel pump, or fuel pressure regulator since you are saying you only have 20psi. So check those also.
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My guess would be overheating. If it was modified then yes detonation/pinging. Should be just take off head get it cleaned and shaved put in new head gasket and good to go.
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Doh yeah warren's right. I've used the exhaust manifold before and never had troubles but you are "suppose" to use the last intake manifold bolt. Much stronger:flamedevi It looks like the last exhaust manifold bolt got broken off in there. You will need to drill and retap the hole in order to not have any leaks if you take off the intake and exhaust manifold.
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The two best places to lift is the bolt the holds the exhaust manifold on in the rear and the bolt near the water outlet or power steering pump. As long as its alteast a 12mm bolt and you can get good thread depth with it it should be able to hold. Good luck.
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the reasoning the car was not finished with tuning is because it was built in 1 month...and the team learned they would have to race 4 hours earlier than planned which was valuable tuning time.
I think it was 2 months and they left alot of things to last minute that they could have done 2 months earlier. (Wiring ecu and car, fixing body panels, installing fuel cell, planning it better, etc...) No offense but 4hrs should not be a big difference when you have had 2 months to build a car and at first you thought you only had 3 weeks. It was poor management of the build that lost that race not the engine or circumstances.
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Thumper' date=' I thought you were more involved in this project. That whole Holset turbo was the same as your setup at SEZ...right?
What was wrong with the build of the car?[/quote']
I was part of it at the very early stages. Help get donations organized and I tore down the car and etc... Then something personnal between 73turbo240z and I came up so I forced away from the build. Now with hindsight i'm glad I wasn't near the problems that have arised from the pinks build crew.
Yes the holset was the same I was using. They waited untill the last second to do jobs they could have done 2 months earlier (no joke) and they used short cuts and no one there knew how to tune megasquirt on a l28.
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I have a ? though.
Why in the hell didn't ya'll put together a forged high compression 406ci sbc and run a 300+ shot of Nitrous and sandbag it?
No need. If this car was built properly and the engine tuned correctly the z would have been just as fast as the monte if not faster.
anyone used "asap motors" before
in Nissan L6 Forum
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I have used them and they have good product and halfway decent prices but THE WORST customer service. They told me my part would be delivered for almost 2 weeks and I only live 10 minutes away. I finally had to go and pick it up in the back of my buick. Then I get it and I find out I do not need the tranny (my fault) and now they have been promising me for 4 weeks they would come pick it up. I have talk to manager after manager and nothing has come of it. I will probaly have to take it back to them.
Also when I talked to them last they said they didn't have the engine and that the website is update monthy. I haven't seen it change in over 3 months. I bought a mazda tranny from them not the l28. I would be cautious if I were you if you want to deal with them.