Thumper

with a 400lb

for a Z

I don't think thats true. In the burn out box they have water so less traction. Also nitrous is an on/off 35hp-100hp difference so managing that would be harder in my opinion then just modulating the throttle.

Here is a stock wastegate flapper arm.(Holset turbo) And here is my shortened flapper arm. Noticed also that I had to modify the actuator rod so that it would not bind.

Yepo and I did have that problem. So my stock boost off the boost controller went to 5psi vs 7psi. All I did though was add a $2 spring for sears and its back to 7psi.

Ok I was having a discussion with ON3GO about if nitrous would help my car get off the line faster. We were talking about 60ft times only. The cars get full boost in first gear by 4k rpms and they will be running 235/60 r15 drag radials. My argument was that since I can launch my car hard enough that if I wanted to I could spin the tires from when the light comes on untill end of first that I do not need anymore power from nitrous. His argument was nitrous would let us launch at a lower rpm and let us get BETTER 60ft times. He also said professional drag cars and other such and such cars are faster when they launch with nitrous. I then rebutted they don't have enough power to spin the tires off the line without nitrous I do. So they need the extra power down low in order to get the most out of there tires. I am not looking so much to see who is right (although I know I am:lol: ) more along the lines of the theory behind it. Thanks

Wow looking good. Another thing I did to my wastegate to get it not to creep was cut and shorten the flapper arm that connects to the actuator arm. What this does is shorten the lever so that when the wastegate actuator opens up its in fact moving the flapper arm more because it is on a smaller pivot point/smaller circle. If this is confusing (i know i'm not using the correct terminology) I can draw some pics or take some pics.

ON3GO's sisters lovely

Once upon a

then waxed everybody's

the geo metro

jealous ON3GO because

weekend going against

riced out piece

Our goal is 2400lbs. We have set it fairly high since we really have never gutted a 280z before. We would love 2300lbs.

My girlfriend read that and said "I could so see you doing that". But who am I kidding I probably would.

Unless your hydraulic lifters are in tip top shape or have been modified you cannont run an aftermarket cam. Even if they don't make noise doesn't mean they are in tip top condition. Tom I am switching out my hydraulic head for a solid head so that I can run my VERY MILD cam. It would not run on my hydraulic head due to not enough lifter strength at idle. This was with a turbo automatic oil pump with competition springs. 15psi at idle and 55psi by 3500rpms. So oil pressure was not the problem. I also have dissembled and cleaned my lifters multiple times.

Undo the caps lock please.

Unless your hydraulic lifters are in tip top shape or have been modified you cannont run an aftermarket cam. Even if they don't make noise doesn't mean they are in tip top condition. Tom I am switching out my hydraulic head for a solid head so that I can run my VERY MILD cam. It would not run on my hydraulic head due to not enough lifter strength at idle. This was with a turbo automatic oil pump with competition springs. 15psi at idle and 55psi by 3500rpms. So oil pressure was not the problem. I also have dissembled and cleaned my lifters multiple times.

Ok lets see. I've blown 1 bottom end, 5 oil pumps, 4 t3 turbo's and 1 holset turbo (bad oil pumps), 4 trannys, 1 headgasket, and 1 halfshaft. Anything I've missed?

I don't want to say the specs of build while i'm not in the protected thread. But my question was what is the max rpm for the stock block? Thanks

Nah it should keep my rpms down at the end of the quarter mile and it lets my turbo have load longer which turbo's love.

I am about to change my rear diff from a r200 to a welded r180. I am doing this for being lighter, better gearing (3.36 compared to 3.545), and this will be welded so better traction. This will be only a drag car and will not have to worry about turns except in the staging lanes. I know the welds tend to turn on autocross type courses and on the street but what about straight line? The specs on the build are here. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=109709 Thanks

I am looking to remove the most amount of weight while spending no money. I am going to be removing the sound deadening, all electrical wires, headlights, wipers, mirrors, etc... but I was wondering where can I cut the frame to remove weight? I was thinking the rear storage compartments, gut/cut the doors, cut all uncessary brackets and tabs, and swiss cheese the front core support. Any other ideas? This is a Drag only car and will not have to worry about safety inspections. Also it will have a roll bar for added stiffness. The specs on the build are here. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=109709 Thanks

Ok I have an external wastegate and was wondering where would it be best to route the exhaust gases back into. Should it be right after the turbo or a foot or two down the downpipe. The specs of the build is here. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=109709 Thanks