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First things first. My car was not at 12psi it was at 5-6psi when we raced. Second I can not find 3rd even if it was lite up with neon lights. Damn 4spd sychros are gone. Third I never used my 2-step against you only to scare people next to my muffler (it back fires alittle with a 1ft flame) Intill I miss third 73turbo240z and I are both even so think of it as you will. So when I get my better tranny this week we will line up again see who is king of h-town z-streets. What ever psi you want. OH YEAH I turned the turbo wick up to 19psi for the fun of it last night. And second gear traction is a joke I just roast the tires. Third it still spins but its managable. Its more of an accereration spin in third. And fourth doesn't last too long. Here is the funny part I have a 240z 4spd and it handled all of this plus 10+ launches last night. I love this car I just need a better tranny and speedo.

You can check the timing with a timing light. Basically it senses when the no.1 cylinder is fired and emits a light at that time. You then check where the mark on the crank pulley is lined up at when the light comes on. If you are running the stock ecu 81-82 then its 20 degrees if you are running a 83 then its 24. It could also be a miss. Check cap, rotor, wires, spark plugs, and coil. EDIT* I just read your sig looks like you are running an l20 and I don't know what the stock timing is on that. And yes dizzy timing and ignition timing is the same.

Smoking after you first put the engine together is normal. Your finger oil, cleaner, and even gaskets will smoke for the first few times your car is warmed up. It should get better each time you start it though. If you are getting a good boost reading and its going up there as quickly as should then you system is sealed. So more than likely its ignition timing, miss, or fuel problem.

Yeah 73turbo240z was working on his starts. Different tranny, new stickier tires, and a new better clutch. And this was his second attempt to try. The next run he did a better launch still not perfect and got him out of the hole by 1/2 car length instead of the other way around. So once 73turbo240z gets his new setup down nothing should be able to beat him off the line street tire vs street tire. Unless its 4wd.

LOL Nice video. Looked to be one of those I wish my Z was a convertible days.

Yeah I was video taping the run and didn't know I was so close to the wall so when I turned to video the 2nd half I smacked my head:fmad: A few more things to note on3go's car has about 200miles on it. Both cars were stripped, and both were running on the same exact tires 225 bfgoodrich sports. One more thing about 73turbo240z is he isn't sure he didn't go past 7 psi because his boost gauge is not easily seen while driving so he might have "cheated" and the boost went higher. GET THAT FIXED But they both sounded nice from where I was. This tuesday my z should be running and if the tranny holds we should see three z's line up against each other.

Its been running for awhile. It has 4 piston skirts broken off the pistons. I dropped the oil pan and cleaned it out and took a look at everything else about 6 months ago. On some of the parts its look like the two parts of the oil pump were rubbing against each other, and not metal flakes scrapeing. They have matching scratch marks. I think I might drop the oil pan again and check if there are alot of shavings down there and while i'm there i'll check the pickup tube. Also I will do an engine flush see what that does. If it eats another oil pump I might pull the engine and tear it down.

I was thinking the same thing. But i've changed my oil atleast twice since then. I'm about to do it again just to be sure though.

Ok I took apart two oil pumps. One known good one and the one that has been in the engine for maybe 5hrs of driving time. The bad one has scratches and gouges on all metal clearance parts is very hard to turn by hand. The oil pump shaft cog is in good condition and is installed the correct way. No rounded edges or scratches. I can not think of what is causing this. Both of the bad parts are on the right. Thanks

Actually I think we might have been premature. Sure 3rd and 4th gear can be hard to get into but I put a prybar between my downpipe and tranny this morning and it is better. As in it only shakes at higher rpms or under heavy load instead of any load like last night. So i'm going to get underneath her today and pry it out some. See if that helps.

I have been having an oil problem on/off for awhile. Whenever I install a new or junkyard oil pump the oil pressure is fine for about a day or two. Then after that it start to goe low. Like 15psi at 3000rpms low. But for the first day or two its up at 30psi+. The drop is not gradual it might go down 5psi or so at first but then one minute its fine and then 10minutes later its low. I have installed 4 oil pumps now and all of them have done this. I have also replaced the oil pressure springs with competition ones from courtesy, and i've replaced the oil pump shaft with no changes. When I remove the old oil pump the oil pump shaft is hard to turn and remove from the oil pump housing. But when I install a new/junkyard oil pump it slides on and off easily and turns easily. So between the two days of installing it and when I notice the pressure is low my oil presssure falls off and the clearances between the shaft and oil pump housing get smaller. I know it can't be the shaft slipping because the distributor is on the same shaft and the car runs great. Very little if any oil comes out tailpipe in the morning. And compression on the engine is ok. I do have a oil leak around the lower portion of the front cover maybe from the oil pump gasket. I have always used a factory gasket on the oil pump. I do not have a gasket on the distributor. BTW all pressure readings are done with an autometer mechanical pressure gauge. I have checked the gauge with another known good one and both read the same. Any input is greatly appreciated thanks.

Well considering I blew my tranny two days ago and 73turbo240z blew his a few weeks ago its about time we upgraded. Any updates on this? Pricing? Thanks

Thanks for your response. Any body with a usefull input please chime in.

I just blew my 5-spd and don't have the money for another tranny at the moment. I have a 4-spd out of my 260z lying on ground and was wondering what is the power these blow at. Will it take 200hp? 300hp? 400hp? Drag launches on street tires at 200hp? 300hp? etc... If need be i'll just baby this but this is my 2nd car and I have AAA so I don't mind pushing the limit on the 4spd just want to know where that limit is. Thanks.

Unplug and clean all your electrical connections. AFM, TPS, ECU, etc... Sounds like a bad afm connection though. On these old electronics sometimes if you just breath wrong on the plug they will get messed up.

Yeah I'm just so use to saying I blew my turbo that I just automatically type it. Well turbo and tranny both start with a t so close. BTW I first wrote turbo then I edited it.

Boost creep fixed. I took off the turbo housing and ported it too the max. It it no longer creeps at boost abover 12psi. At 7psi it slowly creeps to 12 psi between 5400rpms-6100rpms. I was never afraid of blowing my motor because I told my ecu to cut ignition at anything above 18psi. So if it hit it then I would basically run into a rev limiter. Because of the biger surface area and some slight leakage around the puck boost comes on a tad bit slower roughly 200rpms later. But still 12psi in 3rd gear by 3200rpms is good enough for me. On to my next problem. I just blew my tranny:fmad: . Time to fix that.

We measured the movement of the stock holset actuator and we measured the movement of the stock 280zx actuator and the 280zx had more of a movement. Plus even with the wastegate puck disconnected and all the way open it will still build too much boost in 4th and 5th gears.

440cc injectors running at 40psi base will handle roughly 370hp after that you will need to upgrade to 550'ccs or 6??cc's.

I haven't seen a flow-chart in awhile but I know that on a 5.9l diesel they can put out 28psi-32psi. On my car it spools 12psi by 3000rpms. So its no slouch either. Remember i'm looking to keep the car internal gated so I don't want to block it off and go external.

I have put compressed air into the lines and every thing moves as it should. The lines are less than 6 inches total. 4" going from manifold to boost solenoid, then 2" going from solenoid to the actuator. Both hoses are brand new do not leak. It does not spike before it starts to creep. Ngrimm, What do you mean that they cut a hole in the flange? Thanks

Even if I bypass the ebc and hook up the lines directly to my turbo it still boost creeps. So I don't think its my ebc thanks though.