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That sounds more like a problem with tuning or with the turbo than the mbc. It seems like it just doesn't have enough time/energy to spool the turbo. You might want to check your turbo (which I think is new) or work on tuning somemore. I have run three different types of mbc's and they all act differentely but have found the dawesdevice and a home depot designed mbc to work the best. I would think that if the threads were on the inside the spring would have a chance to catch so why would any one design it that way? I guess just didn't have the right parts or time. I think I have a dawesdevice mbc somewhere in my garage if you are interested? I would give it to you for cost of shipping. PM if you are interested mobythevan.

Congrats on the new car. What color is it? Vtec can work on either a sohc or dohc head. Imagine your l28 cam. It has 12 cam lobes 6 for intake 6 for exhaust. Now since the honda is a 4 cyl it should have 8 lobes, but it doesn't. What it does have is 16 lobes. 2 lobes for each lifter so 2 lobes for no.1 cyl intake valve, 2 lobes for no.1 cyl exhaust valve, etc... At a certain rpm a hydraulic solenoid pushes the cam sideways switching it to the different cam lobes. So between 0-4500rpms it has a mild good gas mileage cam, but at 4500rpms it switches to a different set of lobes so in essence it switches to a new top-end power cam. So its like having two sets of cams in the same car. On other vtec cars the vtec doesn't switch intill closer to 5krpms. My fav site. http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question229.htm

Well thanks for the input. I hate break in time it is so slow.

Yes you can mount it sideways but you won't be able to get the last bit of nitrous out. Although when it gets that low the bottle pressure will so low you won't want to spray. Any way is to mount it diagonal. Do it kindof like corzette but bring it further up so that it is almost between the seats and then angle it towards the right rear or left rear of the vehicle. Should be able to fit.

There is a junkyard with about 30+ 240z, 260z, 280z, and 280zx's off of pinemont and shepherd. Its is called pinemont auto salvage. The owner's name is Gary. Nice guy almost always has the part i'm looking for. Sometimes really great prices sometimes kindof expensive. Just don't haggle price with him and you will stay on his good side:mrgreen: He hates to haggle.

Actually nos bottles are very hard to explode. Except in fire. Even fully filled pressure inside a bottle is 1000-1300lbs even on the hottest day. The bottle limit is at 5000lbs. And most bottles have a safety valve that at 3000lbs it will release the gas. I'm not saying they can't explode just saying it would take more than an airplane flight to do it. But stupid person to ship it with nitrous. Although it saved you $20 in nitrous. My vote is to put the nozzle before the bov. Sure it will release alittle bit of nitrous and fuel out the bov but it is very little since the wot switch will turn it off. Also I wouldn't want that extra nitrous in my intake tract when you are pushing nitrous and a turbo on a stock engine. My .02 cents.

I've swapped oil pumps/change dist timing over 10 times on different z cars and never had to drain the oil. I think as long as you have the front wheels off the ground you shouldn't have a problem. You will need to remove the swaybar to get to the oil pump. Maybe not if its oem but for sure if its aftermarket. It is a 30 minute job. Also if you have a haynes manual it shows the orientation the half moon is suppose to be when it is installed correctly as seen from the distributor hole. You will know what i'm talking about when you get a turbo distributor shaft. Good luck.

Ok I have never bought a new turbo before always junkyard or used ones. So my question is there a break in schedule, certain technique, or ritual I need to preform? It is at holset hy35 that was designed to run on a diesel 5.9l v8 at 18psi stock. So running 18psi on my engine is like only running 11psi on the v8. So I am not anywhere near pushing the turbo but just want to make sure and be on the safe side. Thanks for your time.

Please read what I wrote. I in no way was complaining. Any clearer?

No I am not complaining at all about the speed I am just wondering the technical reason why we switched? Just because? More efficient? etc... I could care less if it takes 1 second or 10 seconds to load a page just as long as I get my hourly hybridz dose:mrgreen: Further more I think dan has done a great job of keeping this site up and running. It is rarely down and usually only when he is tweaking things. Thanks for your hard work Dan.

I too have heard alot of problems with the mazda3. The spec-v I have also heard of problems but not that many of 2005 and 6's so maybe they worked all the kinks out. The civic si is a new model so it hasn't had much time for people to complain but if its any where near the old model it should be very reliable. I am trying to find a good car for my sister right now and I'm also looking a the toyota corrola. Not as gutsy as the spec-v or civic si but no slouch. Great reliability and gas mileage. But in the looks department they just look a minivan in the front. On a side note I can't wait for the pontiac solstice gxp. 2900lbs, 260hp, 260lb-tq, rear wheel drive, limite-slip, convertible oh yeah. Only problem its a pontiac:evil:

I've noticed our forums now have the screen saying please wait shortly be patient blah blah blah when you click on any type of search feature. On most all other forums I visit they have this also. Just wondering if there is a specific reason that we switched to this format. I.E. faster load time, less usuage, more searches can be done at once, etc... To me it seems like the times have been delayed maybe .5 seconds nothing big but other than that can't tell a difference between before and after. Just being curious george here. Thanks

My vote goes to the spec-v. Its a great car good power, brakes, handling, and it rides soomthly. Only thing is gas mileage is not at 30mpg. Sticker is 24/29 so alittle below 30. If you want more gas mileage then the civic non si. If you want looks the mazda3. Good luck.

With a turbo car you want a lower final drive to keep your car under load longer. Try to get a 3.545 out of a turbo car or if you can find the very rare 3.36.

Need more details. Stock engine? Stock ecu? If so check the Idle control valve for being stuck open or more likely the throttle plate isn't closeing all the way. Could be from bent linkage, stuck throttle pedal, junk in the tb, misaligned tps, etc...

Umm whats home schooling?

Umm I don't get it:rolleyesg

$15 at any O'reilly store near you. Trust me if you plan to work on your car even a little it will be a good investment.

We were tuning my friends car the other day megasquirt 2.2 when I noticed his tps wasn't reading. We pulled over and checked and it had fallen off. The car felt fine while driving it so that got me thinking what does megasquirt use the tps for. I came up with the flood clear mode while starting, acceleration enrichment, and turning off the o2 sensor at full throttle. Other than that it doesn't seem to effect anything. So since his car did not have an o2 sensor connected, and I have the acceleration enrichment off because we are tuning afr's, then the tps should not effect anything. Or am I missing somethimg? And what the hell is this icon? Looks like a guy with shades and a red bandana.

Looks like a s13 240sx with a convertible kit and some fugly bumpers.

I've read you should not install nitrous before the intercooler because it will puddle up and then go into the engine suddenly and make a big boom. Plus since air travels different amount of lengths in the intercooler you could have the nitrous filled air go the short path and the fuel filled air go the long and then boom. About mounting the nozzle before or after the bov I think it should be before the bov that way after you lift off the throttle the excess nitrous and fuel in the intake tract is blown out instead of just sitting in the intake track waiting intill you open the throttle again. There would be more excess nitrous and fuel in the intake tract then say a n/a engine because even though you have turned the solenoid off by lifting the throttle you still have air pressure/turbo spinning flowing over the nitrous nozzle jet creating a scavenging effect pulling all the nitrous out of lines between the nozzle and the solenoid. But thats my .02 cents. Any other ideas?

nm

Yeah I'll be over to come over just give me a call. I was talking about getting the clutch and wastegate fixed though and by next weekend cause thats when my z should be running.