Thumper

I did not have a place were I can upload my settings but my aim name is sirthumpselot. I would like for everyone to take a look my settings and see if they are correct. Thanks

Well I got it to squirt now too it somehow was a bad load. When I reloaded the firmware when I did easytherm it start to squirt as well as spark. Now I need to redo my maps because I am using a different version then my old maps. We will see in about half-an hour if it starts. Thanks for your help.

When I gnd either the dark or the light green wire the injectors fire so I know my wiring is still good. I have the ecu led set to activate when it sends a squirt and the light never lights up. Megatune never shows the squirt gauge to move from the pink no active state. I also put a volt meter on the green wires and neither of them are being gnded when the ecu is being turned over. Any suggestions? Thanks

Might be then again it might be that in all the switching of the boxs last night 3 in total I pulled the blue wire out of the butt connect to the resistor. Hmm yeah I think that is it. Its sparking now and reading the rpms like a pro. Now I just have to find out why my injectors aren't firing. On the injectors I have supra 440cc injectors. When I measure the resistance it is 3ohms. I have a 25 watt, 5.1ohm resistors is this ok? I have the resistors in on the 12volt line from my relay. And then I have the gnd of 1,2,3 hooked up to the dark green wire and injectors 4,5,6 to the light green wire. When I turn the car on I get 12volts at both sides of the injector clip. Sounds right? Thanks Almost there sheesh!

Ok the box is running msns-extra 25v2. I have loaded my maps in based off of moby's with minor tuning to the spark and fuel table. When I try to start the car the rpm signal goes to 10000 rpms or sometimes 13000 rpms. The timing will go to 10degrees. While the car is not trying to be started timing is at 5 degrees. Also after 2 seconds of cranking the rpms will go back to 0 and the timing back to 5 degrees. Any thoughts? Thanks

Yeah it has been but all is well. I've upgraded the new box to extra now so both are running extra. This one is running version 24. The version 25 downloader doesn't work right so I will have to do it manually. Ok when i try to start the car the rpm's go up 11000rpms and the spark angle goes to 38 degrees. What does this mean?

Everything on the labtop works except the rpm. The spark advance is pink intill I try to start the car then it goes to 5. This 2.2 is running with msns non-extra. Basically I am wondering if my wiring is correct. Thanks

I don't have the fuel pump hooked up to the ms box right now. I have it running through the engien wiring harness. I can however check to see if that wire is getting a ground. And with this box I CAN get the labtop connected. This is a difference box with non-extra loaded into it. I can communicate perfectly with it. Thanks

Yes it was a straight-thru. And I installed my friends 2.2 board and everything works perfectly so it was my box. Thanks

Ok I found out my other problem was a bad box so I am using my friends. I am still having trouble with getting it to spark though. All my sensors work and read perfectly but yet the led doesn't flash for injection and I don't get spark or fuel. I have put a volt meter on the tach line and rotated the distributor and it does receive a 12volt signal. I have the white distributor wire hooked up to the blue ms wire, the red dizzy wire to a 12volt wire, and the black wire to a ground. I also have a 1k ohm 1/4 watt resistor between the 12volt wire and the tach wire. Does everything seem alright?

Well after much fun I have found out somethiing IS wrong with the ms box. I am sending it back tomorrow and he is going to repair it. My friend is going to let me use his ms 2.2 Only thing is I need to upgrade it from msns to msns-extra. Should be oh so much fun. ThanksI do have a problem with my input though but thats for another thread.

Well I have tried with two different labtops and two different types of connectors one db9 to db9 and one db9 to usb and non of these work. So I think it is ms. One of the reasons I bought a preassembled unit is so that I wouldn't have to buy a stim. I know that the blue/tach wire is receiveing a 12v signal from the distributor. I know that pin 19 is not grounded. I know that the led closest to the db9 lights up a for a split second when the car is turned on, then no lights, I know that I cannot connect to the ms box via megatune. What does this mean bad MS box or some wire I messed up? Thanks

Sorry forget to tell you what i'm running. Megasquirt 2.2, with msns-extra 25v2. With megatune b656.

One other thing I just found out that pin 19 is not grounded. The builder said this is not necessary? I am not running a relay board I have all my sensors grounding to chassis at the same location of the megasquirt. Is this a problem? Thanks

Update: It gets power and ground. It sends out power to all the sensors. D17 led flashes for a split second when car is turned on. No other lights light up. My new question is will the led d17 flash during cranking if I haven't load a map yet? Because I have not been able to connect my labtop to the ecu yet. It might be the labtop though that is causing the problem in communication. Also why would tapping the tps make the led light up? Thanks

Well I don't even get the warmup light. I just get a .3 seconds flash

I have all my sensors connected to megasquirt. I know it is getting 12volts and ground. When I turn the car on all the sensors get the appropiate voltage, TPS 5v, IAT 3v, exc... The problem is when I turn the car on the led next to the db9 connection flashes for a split second. After that nothing. No light during trying to start and no solid lights. I also cannot connect to the ecu via my labtop using megatune. Any suggestions? Thanks

Well i'm going check the compression again just to see if its low and then she run till she puts a rod through the block. Funny thing is I think this happened when I first got this running. I think it happened when I had my volvo intercooler on.

Dang didn't even think detonation could cause something like this but it makes sense. I found all four pieces in my oil pan as well as some metal shavings. I throughly clean it out. I am planning to build up another engine I just didn't want to do it so quickly. For now though I have to run my engine like this so what problems will this cause?

I removed my oil pan and found four of my pistons with the exact same damage. They were all broken on one side only and only on the passenger side of the engine. This is picture of a stock like piston and I have shaded the part that is broken off. Last time I checked the engine had good compression and it had no rattling noises from the bottom end. I can still see the cross-hatching on the cylinder walls. So what caused this? And how will it effect the engine? Only thing I can thing of it effecting is the balance of the piston and maybe oiling of the piston in someway. Thanks P.S. I borrowed this picture from the members gallery if it is yours and want it removed please let me know.

Thanks figured as much but just wanted to be sure. Just waiting on my resistors and then I can fire this baby up.

Does it matter where I install the pullup resistor on the white line? Can I install it right before it goes into the ms box or does it need to be close to the distributor. Thanks