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Man, I really need a digital camera. I guess I should have stated from the get go that I have the AZcar LCA's. The H-bracket was to adapt the sway bar mount to the nut that he has welded on othe front of the LCA, and turn the rod end 90 degrees. Actually my swaybar mount was offset from the LCA as well. With a rod end both on the top and bottom this was not an issue. I guess the hole furthest forward is directly above, but right now it's in the last one out, and is on an angle. You can still do the u-shaped bracket capturing the rod end, on the bar end and have this same set up. If you have stock LCA's, you can still do the same thing with a U-bracket both on the top and bottom. This way you get rid of those terrible bushings, and get a more accurate feel for how well the sway bar is actually working. The sway bar is from Saner performance. He has really good prices and is very flexible with what you want.

That's a piece of cake, but not "on the car adjustable", I don't think there's enough room. My bar already had a 3-hole setup with a rod end, so I simply bought one end male, the other female. I did have to make a small adapter so the rod end was perpendicular to the LCA, and not parralel. You could also do this with a bushing style bar, using a u-shaped bracket bolted in place of the bushing.

You're correct. It will have a label/note on it stating "for off road use only". Which I (and I'm assuming others) interpret that as, "we're covering our asses, and we don't really care what you do with it". When's the last time you heard about someone getting harrased by the law for driving with race gas on public roads? EDIT: just another thought, driving with Av gas is not legal either.

I did some searching online about Av gas vs Race gas, and found that even though they are very similar, Av gas should NOT be used in any land stricken vehicle. I wish I could find the link, but it took me more than a few hours to find it last time. It has to do with the molecule chain, and how they react to different altitudes. If at all possible, find a local gas station that has 110 leaded at the pump. At least by me, in the Milwaukee metro area, there are some, but they are few and far between. Also I've heard that 100 LL (low lead), actually has quite a bit more lead than even race gas. Many aircraft owners will use an additive to combat lead fouling.

You might want to try searching but anyways, as far as I know, only the 6-2-1 that MSA (and now maybe Nismo?) will work on the 280ZX. The 6-1 equal length, or the 6-2 Nissan Motorsports equal length will not work. Wether it's a square or round port is not relevant.

I'm a little confused by this statement, I hope you're talking about duration, and if so that's not entirely correct. Almost all full race N/A motors use a 300 duration or more (slightly). The lift is usually .560 or .620. It's not that uncommon for an all out race L28 to get around 320 hp.

That's interesting because I was seriously consdering buying the IMSA g-nose molds and he only wanted to sell the whole collection, something like 25 grand. The Drive's not too bad for me either: Total Est. Time: 7 hours, 17 minutes Total Est. Distance: 456.89 miles

Did a google search and found a pretty interesting pdf file. In 1998, shortly after a new employee joined, he found an L18 based one in storage, and got it up and running in a 510 bluebird. http://www.datrats.com.au/OS%20TWIN%20CAMS.pdf My thoughts were I'd seriously consider it if could be had for $2000 or less, and I had a place to race it. I doubt it would be allowed in a production based class. Also, it could probably be developed further, with different cams and what not, but who would make those, or regrind the originals? It would take a lot of R&D with nothing in return for the cam manufacturer.

Hey Mat. Sorry to hear about your dilema. I guess when ever I start to feel sorry for myself with past injuries, like my knee, I just have to talk to you! The only thing I can come up with that I didn't see mentioned anywhere was shoulder harness pads. I have seen them come in different thicknesses, or you could maybe put two on on strap? Here's one that I could find: http://www.racerwholesale.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=177

jmortensen, thanks for your patience. About the crank. My source tells me that the harmonics come into play at 7500 and end at 7800. If you can run through this range quickly you can probably get away with it, but as far as I know not with a stock damper.

Thedieselstop.com was my first thought too, but they only cover Ford/Internationals.

Nice car, but that trophy is obscene.

As far as I know, or what I've come across, most custom domed forged L28 pistons out there, are made for the L24 rod. I have JE's which use this configuration. It does help with higher rpms with less piston side load, however the compression ratio should not be affected. Theoretically, one could try to use the L28 pistons and have them extend above the deck, and therefore increase compression, but I've never heard of this done, and not sure what kind of clearance issues there would be, or machining required. The crank being the weak link is probably open for debate, but it does need special attention.

I did a little searching, and found the maximum CFM for 40mm Weber rated at 181 per venturi (1086 total). There wasn't a minimum listed, but I did find this for the 45's: 30 -142 cfm (per venturi) 32 -164 cfm 34 -186 cfm 36 -207 cfm 38 -218 cfm 40+ 222 cfm Using that as a baseline, the minimum for a 40mm would be about 115 CFM. I may be way off, but just an educated guess. Phil

LOL, I was waiting for someone to make some kind of comment. To be honest, It seems like I've just been stumbling across these, and it's not like I'm going out of my way to find odd items.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6398&item=4537007413&rd=1

As both jmortenson and I suggested, a snell 2000 will work fine, but if he holds off until the '05's come out, a new helmet won't be needed for 10 years.

You'd save some money for sure if it could be done, but I'm of the opinion you're better off going with an Electromotive unit. The only downside is this will cost you about $600. It is fairly easy to hook up, and I cannot tell you how nice it is behing able to adjust the curve with a few simple dials on the unit. I beleive they have a newer, more adjustable laptop adjustable unit out now too.

Like I said, a 10 year old helmet is not recommended, but IMHO it's ok if it sees only occasional use, and is stored in a climate controlled environment. For my own sake, I hope the 2005's don't come out this June, because then I'll have to buy a new helmet next year! This is kind of sucks since it was purchased in '98.

I believe M rated helmets are acceptable for solo 2 autocross, but that's about it. Just so you can get the most use out of it as possible, my first thought is hold off as long as you can because the Snell '05 should be due, but I heard the Snell '00 rating didn't come out until something like 2002, so that kind of goes out the window. As a rule of thumb, most sanctioning bodies go back two snell ratings, so when the '05 comes out, the '95 will not be allowed, This doesn't apply to you of course buying an '00, but just an FYI. Most places do however give a year's time to replace as well. My guess would be a '95 will be legal for the next 3 years yet. On the other hand, a 10 year old helmet is not recommended either, since the adhesives and what not degrade compromising the integrity and safety of it.

Too bad, we'll miss him. Directv had a channel called Trio, which unfortunately isn't on anymore. They aired a lot of really different and obscure programming which I liked, but this is probably the same reason why it's gone. Anyways, this included a neat behing the scenes documentary on the DMC-12, during the initial planning and construction, and before the whole thing was a failure. They really touted it as the next up and comming sensation. The only way I'd ever a DMC-12 is if it was a hybrid. Those things were totally lacking in straight line speed, but not sure how it was handling wise. I guess it was originally intended to have a turbo motor, but that never panned out.

I don't even think about touching the old studs until I've heated them good with the acetylene torch. They then come out like butter. I know some of you don't have access to one, but I'm not sure how well a propane torch or MAP gas would work. Also, I've never had any problems with AZC's timelyness.