preith

I always thought that 1/8" thickness was pretty much the limit. Anything more and you'll risk it cracking, etc.

Around here any yards with older Z's are few and far between. It's all late-model stuff to begin with and the salt gods took care of any real zcar market a long time ago. When ever I need a stock part, it's usually found on either ebay or zcar.com. One word of advice on ebay searching, my last R200 purshased from an auction on Ebay was titled "280ZX differential".

I can't bite my lip any longer. Beatiful car, but I'm sorry, the guys on the Corvette board can not refer to it as a Z! Seriously though, as a comparison, there's a guy in our club who wheel to wheel races his C5 Z06 (touring 1). I just can't get over the performance right out of the box. It's bone stock except for oil and trans coolers and he's setting lap times faster than many other well prepared, purpose built, V8 race cars.

C'mon guys. How hard would it be to come by another set of struts and control arms?

If it's "parts alone" I'd think you'd be able to find what you need on the various boards, such as control arms, for a 1/10th of that price.

The core support hangs lower on 280's.

No complaints. I've ordered parts only from them, and have never had any problems. My last order was also pistons, and I found there teck guy extremely helpfull.

I was running Royal Purple synthetic in my box and thought I lost the 3rd gear synchro as well. It was starting to grind when I tried to downshift too quick. But since then I've changed it with Mobil1 synthetic in and it seems to have subsided.

Does this mean we have to get rid of the Chicks section of the gallery now too?

I can see your point, but looking at my domed JE's I wonder how easy this would be. The valve pockets would have to be pretty substantial. With the flat portion of the piston corresponding with an N42 it acheives the same thing. Plus the "N's" have about the same chamber volume, and of course already have the steel seats and larger valves. ...see, can of worms!

This is probably opening up a "can of worms" and probably has been discussed before but I'd like to throw my $.02 in. I had an E88 off a L26, and was not all too happy with the chamber design and promptly sold it. Don't feel bad iskone, it went for about $25 on ebay. I'm not sure if the earlier L24 ones were a little different, other than the smaller exhaust valve of course. The N42 and N47 have a flatter area on the side opposite of the spark plug which in my mind forces the fuel/air over to the spark plug side and in the process makes it less prone to detonation. The P90 is of course one up on them, but lets not go there.

I went to Carquest.com and found out all their hoses and belts are Gates. Then went to Gates.com and searched that part number. It then comes up with Gates' product ID# of 42612373 and the same part #. From the picture, it looks like the right one.

I have the Ron Davis (Arizona Zcar) unit as well on my road racer. I do have to run it with a fan, but that's with a underdrived crank pulley and a BIG cam. But I can say it never gets above 180 deg durning a session. Anyways, this topic with hoses and aluminum radiators has come up before. If Dave has a part # for a hose that fits, it's news to me. Check out this thread for my solution: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=102562&highlight=radiator

This is just an inquiry. I'm contemplating purchasing an old car of mine back. The new owner swapped out the FI for triple Weber 40's, but has no jets and it is not tuned in correctly. I have a large collection of Mikuni jets and prefer these carbs anyways, as I'm sure many others do. Anybody willing to make a trade? I'd be willing to contribute a little more financially as part of the trade.

First thing I thought of was an old Alpha, something like this one:

You problably saw some kind of kit. There's so many of them out there. I beleive because the Caterham is a complete car it can't pass the safety requirements. Grassroots motorsports built a Locust 7 kit with a miata-based drivetrain not too long ago. That seems to be the best bang for the buck, and legal on the highways. There's still quite a few Caterham's in SCCA racing. I just saw one at the track last weekend. This particular one has a polished aluminum body with red and yellow fenders, really cool.

Unfortunately I don't have any pic's readily available, but I modified mine as well. I kept the OE nuts on the bottom, and ran high strength threaded rod up through the frame rail. I also welded a .125" plate on the top for reinforcement. It seems to be holding up well under road race conditions.

There was a pretty good thread on this a while back: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=100104&highlight=os+giken

In the "how to hotrod..." book the Sharp team took this a step further, ran it through the wiper box and connected it to the front cross bar of the roll cage. A saw a few vintage CP cars with 1" sq. .083 tubing joined from the TC mount to the front corner of the rocker panel in the wheel well area and I did the same on mine. I honestly don't know if it helps but one racer said it made a big difference on his Z.

Just a thought, and it can get a bit pricey, but one nice thing about the EGT sensor is the flexibility with sensors. You can install multiple ones on each port with a multi-position switch, or a dual dual gauge with two sensors, etc.

From the reading I've done, and EGT sensor is only good if you know the optimum temperature range for your engine. IMO a wideband unit is better.