preith

http://www.race-cars.com/carsales/other/1090041972/1090041972ss.htm

You do not need a 10 ton press. I bought a kit from Harbor Freight about 6 months ago and am very pleased with it: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=38335 BTW, Summit had the exact same kit listed at something like $150.

Wow, 370 is impressive. I thought 340 was pretty much the peak, and even then I wonder if any of them are running a wetsump no DIS. EDIT: It's still a good looking car.

Try more like 275 hp off. I have a very hard time beleiving it's putting out anything over 325hp.

I couldn't agree more, they were a cut above the rest back then. I recently sent them an email specifically asking were I could get a 74.5-78 BRE style spoiler, and the reply had part #'s for the 70-74 version. I couldn't belive it. I replied and reiterated what I was looking for, and never recieved another responce. It was quite shocking to see that dip in service from them. With that said, there has been a proactive effort in the recent past to help me out, but it was more of an irratation for me. I'd call with the part numbers, and then they'd start asking questions about what year the car was, etc. I'd get a little peeved and say "lets not go there, just give me the parts!".

I'm still a big fan of Gran Prix Legends, but you MUST get all of the graphic update files. With them, the graphics are just about up to par with any current sims. GPLEA, http://gplea.rscsites.org/ , has all the car files, but they're rather large and definetly not dial-up friendly. The GPL track database is a fantastic site with links to all the current add-on tacks: http://trackdb.d2g.com/ Lately I've been playing Nascar2003, also by Papyrus/Sierra, on the road courses. That's alot of fun too. There's a track convertor sold by Noonan, or something similar to which can convert N2003 and GPL games to each other, as well as tracks from the old Papyrus Indycar Racing II game. The link is on the GPL database.

Unless I'm missing something, Tim240Z already answered this question in your original thread. Here's the link he left: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=100101

Maybe it was just luck, but I had ZERO experience when I installed my triples, and I have to say it wasn't nearly as hard as some made it out to be. But like John says, maybe that's because I had a large cam and good exhaust already too. For jetting, I used the formula in Honsowetz's book, and it was really close to start with. Same here, my motor has just about 12:1, and I couldn't beleive how much more torque it put out over the 9:1 one.

Thanks sooo much for the link John, this helps tremendously. I've watched over guy's shoulders, but no hands on experience. I'm changing bearings, but not gears. Although, I may have to swap out the carrier if that matters. The diff overheated pretty good, and I have a bad feeling the Quaife is toast. The pinion bearing was a bit tight before I put it in the car, which I beleive led to the the problems. I was concerned about this, but put in the car anyways, stupid me. At any rate, if the Quaife is bad, I'm seriously thinking about swaping it out with welded unit because I can't afford another one right now.... EDIT: would you happen to have the specs like on the last page? Pinion bearing preload, torque settings, etc.

Looking for some good literature on rebuilding differentials, particularly the Nissan stuff of course.

I was a Windy City Z Club member about 7 years ago. My memory is a bit hazy, but there was a guy in the Shy-town area named Tony who had a nice v8 GTO Z. Maybe he's a member of this board? Anyways, I beleive he had most of the work done at a Chicagoland Z-cars, which I don't even now if it's around anymore.

http://zdriver.com/gallery/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=3088 I've seen better, but the union block was simply a solid 1.5" sq piece of aluminum which was drilled length wise and all holes drilled through and pipe threaded. It's actually pretty heavy, and would have benifited from some additional material removal in certain spots, but oh well.

It may quite the intake a little but personally, I'd never know. On my car, there's no interior, no sound deadening or those tar mats, and an open exhaust, so it's VERY loud and pretty much drowns out everything else.

They're Mikuni's. A dead give away is the jet cover. The Weber ones are commonly refered to as "Micky Mouse Hats" because they're round and have a ear shaped wing nut. As far as I know, Mikuni 40's have the same body so....

He has to be from Wisconsin!

Roller rockers for the L6 is pipe dream. Dave Weber (the owner of Malvern) passed about a year ago, lost a battle with cancer. He did try to develop a roller set up, but was unsuccessfull. They wouldn't last for more than one race weekend. His words were something like "a terribly expensive failure". I think they went for about $200 a rocker too. I'd like to hear more about the Sunbelt cams. What lift/duration(s), and prices?

A little off subject, but interesting. A friend of mine used to fly prisoners for the state of Iowa. He had a lot of good stories, but one that stands out in my mind was about a homeless guy. Every fall he would deliberately walk up to a cop crack him one just so he had a warm place to sleep in for a few months.

Here's that thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=98059 I'm in the dark ages with no digital camera, so I tried my best to describe it. I did weld the "t-tabs" on the top and bottom of the backing plate which served both to keep the box from sliding off, as well as for the latches on the other side. I also had to weld the inlet, which was a round 4" piece of aluminum just flattened a bit. I had a hard time making a good looking weld with my Lincoln Mig setup (aluminum mig kit) so I decided to pop rivit the air box to the end caps. Just another project where I kept saying to myself "if I only had a TIG..." The air filter is another can of worms. I wanted the radiator boxed in, and built the air intake off of that almost as an after thought, but one could build the box without anything else. It's basically just another box with a 4" stub throught it, welded as well. I tried to show it in this pic: I have run the car without it, and performance does not seem any different, but then again the air's not filtered either. As I stated before, I had a hard time welding with .040 with a MIG, maybe others had more success. One problem was the weld started extrememely cold, but then very rapidly heated up to the point of blow through. This could be compensated for if some kind of voltage control was on the handle. I found that if I preheated the piece a bit with my Oxy torch first, and welded for short periods of time, but in quick succession, that I had decent results.

We did have a discussion on this not too long ago. This is the best pic of mine that I could come up with. It probably cost me about $40 in materials, and did take a long time to make. It is not 100% air tight, but some weatherstriping or something could be added to make it so. EDIT: please no flak about the POS Fram filters, have different ones now.

There are a lot of "what ifs", but in regards to the O2 sensor fiasco, what if you have a pre-75 car and you tell them that your engine is not and OBDII even thought it is? If it's anything like around here, most aren't exactly technically proficient. Is a CHP officer really going to have the knowledge of an ASE certified mechanic? How would they know? How can they enforce something like that?

Hey guys, I actually directed Mat towards this auction. Before Mat corresponded with him, I sent the guy an ebay question, here's the email cut and pasted: "The 3.36 r200's are very rare. What year/model did it come out of?" listen, i am going to honest i have had these rear for years. i know it fits all z's bolt on no parts needed. i have seen them put 240's 280's. Talk about not answering the question!

hmmm, both in Utah....

I have to reinforce my recent reputation for posting weird cars on Ebay. I don't even know how to describe this one.... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=7251&item=4542699611&rd=1