SleeperZ

If you are going to get water cooling, that's not an upgrade, that's a new turbo housing.

As far as I know, the 240/260 carb stuff will bolt up and work on a L28E head. There are port notches and extra threads on the N42 head, but bolting up the early carb manifolds shouldn't be a problem. I can't say for sure, so someone who does needs to pipe up.

Along those same lines of thinking, don't bother with the stock turbo. Install the hybrid right off - there is nothing magical about a hybrid turbo, just runs cooler intake air is all - with a stock wastegate it'll run just fine. Turbos can be a PITA to remove with the engine in the car.

From what I hear, the early GM V8 diesels were converted from gassers. The VW 1.6 diesel was a converted gasser as well. This is not usually feasable. Vodkaboy is talking about a complete engine swap; the LD28 diesel is a complete engine - different rods, pistons, head, front cover, chain, pan, very few common parts, athough the short block can be made into a gasser, stroked and all, with a gasser head. I don't think it would be worth converting a gasser to a diesel.

The N47 head from the L24E may be swapped over, boosting compression. I'm not too familiar with the 810 diesels, but I'd be willing to be there is no in-tank pump. My Benz 300D has a gravity feed to the lift pump, mounted right on the injection pump. You may have to wire up the glow plug circuit as the gasser certainly doesn't have that. You need to wire your ignition signal to the fuel cut-off. I obviously haven't done that swap before; I'm only dreaming of converting my Toyota 4x4 pickup to diesel right now, and those are the questions I'm asking myself. But I'm driving on B50 biodiesel in my Benz right now, and will be converting to WVO in the next few weeks.

I've not found any testing data yet. I flow tested my Bosch pump at home using a pressure regulator and a Mity-Vac. The 979 pump (used in Porsches) I tested flowed 150 liters/hour at 50 psi (that was the most pressure I could put on the regulator). The pump should be able to flow at least this amount through 60 or 70 psi.

Personally I wish I'd known about this site before I started, but I was just dreaming about making my stock Z faster, and what about a L28 turbo? I'm old enough to remember Nissan's marketing campaign in '80 (Awesome!!!!) and I also remember hearing the engine was the same, so it must just drop in. I bought myself a donor, swapped it all in, drove it to Arizona and back, and then discovered zcar.com, followed by hybridz. I was amazed at the popularity of engine swaps into the first gen. Zs. Anyway, I like cheap and fast, so my car is not a show car. It's not so cheap as to be unreliable though, just ugly.

Very impressive numbers indeed! It's also interesting information on how critical it is the way the air flows into the MAF. I modified the MAF on my Z31 ECU setup by cutting the original element out and re-installing it in a larger ID pipe. I didn't retain the screens, and was worried the airflow was not going to behave properly. I dyno'd it and the a/f seemed to behave, so maybe I got lucky.

If it still used the AFM flapper, I wouldn't go there. For just a little bit more $, you can get a good EFI.

Just because it has fueling issues "from the factory" doesn't mean it's a reliable platform for selectively targeting a nitrous system. Personally I would not mess with nitrous unless I had the full range of safeguards in place. Bastaad, did you read what James (240Z twin turbo) did with his nitrous? He is one of the most experienced around with nitrous, and he flamed his intake pretty good. Seriously, don't tailor a nitrous sytem to take advantage of a poorly performing fuel computer, 'cause that's what it will do. BOOM!

Without knowing more details about the issue, all I can say is to check for stuck injectors or an ignition problem. Bad plug wires or other problems on the high voltage side of the ignition will cause flooding in addition to bad injector drivers inside the ECU or stuck injectors. You might check fuel pressure too, as a bad pressure regulator will cause a very rich mixture.

The only things that might be different or more difficult would be steering shaft issues or the firewall on the ZX is different - there is less room for a downpipe on the S130.

I only insured my Z for $2500, as it's just a budget racer. I suppose I could up the value to $5000 or so, just for all the driveline work and time into, but I pay $130 a year. Not too bad, when my family policy wanted $700 per year, liability only. The only drawback is it's a collector car policy, as as such, I cannot daily drive - it's for weekend driving and driving to track events. Probably a good thing too, last thing I need is another speeding ticket

Lockjaw and JeffP know more about the JWT than I, but it is a Z31 ECU that has been reprogrammed and rewired internally so external rewiring is unneccesary. I imagine it can still be quite the job to install and make work (De Schmadee had some trouble), but in theory should be easier than swapping a factory Z31.

Alex, your advice is going to cost someone their engine. I am not going to explain (once again) how the Z fuel injection works by measuring the airflow. Unless you can gain an understanding of Nissan EFI, please refrain from these sorts of uninformed comments.

The way the injectors are controlled by the ECU is by running +12V (battery) to one side, common to all injectors. The injector is energized by running the other connection to a "ground" (chassis). Current will not flow unless the ECU pulls the side not connected to +12 to ground. It sounds to me like your problem is elsewhere, and not in the injector wiring. I hope you are asking about a Z injection system

Certainly can't complain about the prices. What a good turbo for you depends on your hp level and intended use for the car. I do a little drag racing and road racing, but my car is mostly a street vehicle. The stock turbine with the 0.63 a/r works well but is flow limited, so maximum power is certainly not realized. You need to figure out what compromises you can live with before you can know what turbois good for you.

I mean I'm running a TO4B V-trim and a stock Nissan T3 turbine. Yes, I'm quite happy with the turbo.

I'd rather have the whole car I've seen the picture out on the web - sad accident. I'm not exactly sure what's for sale though - just the right to buy it from the insurance company? And you pay the broker 250k for just a finding fee? Ouch.

I don't think it was a typo... Yeah, 2500hp

Sounds like my turbo.

If it's eBay, try an escrow service, that should ensure you get the engine. They could verify the casting number too, I would think. Not sure if they could determine if it's not hot though....

I've never used one, my Bosch sounds the same as the factory unit. Shane tried the MSD pumps and had bad luck - they burned out on him, two of them. I'm thinking it was just where he mounted the pump, not completely below the sump pickup. The stock location on a Z should be ok, at least a 280; I don't know where you mounted yours on your 240.

Looks alright, but keep in mind the turbo you linked is not suitable for a Z - the a/r of the turbine is too restrictive (0.48), you need at least 0.63. And the turbine will not bolt up to a Nissan wastegate/downpipe.