SleeperZ

Diesels use a mechanical injection. Fuel is metered by "gas" pedal position and rpm; as a matter of fact the pedal is connected to the injection pump in my Benz. The amount of air is relatively unimportant as diesels have no problem running lean - that's a normal condition. So it's just easier to open the intake and not throttle it.

5/16" inch hardware and hose is close enough for the stock lines.

Personally I would be concerned if my temperature rose to 210 or 215. that means your cooling system is out of control! The thermostat is supposed to regulate at it's setpoint. If the temperature goes higher, your cooling system is inadequate for the conditions. Either your radiator cannot dissipate the heat, the fan cannot move enough air, or you cannot circulate enough coolant. And of course the system must be free of air pockets.

I would think either ECU will work fine for the supercharger setup.

No reason to use the intake. You'd have to block the injector bosses. The trick is going to be getting more fuel out of the injection pump, you'll get more air with the turbo, but no more power.

Yeah, I hope you put a block guard on that Honda engine. Is that just a JRSC? From what I've heard, the most you are going to get out of that is 300whp - I could be wrong, but at 14 psi it's a serious hair dryer, especially without an intercooler. And the big big news is Bastaad525 is still up and running!!!!

My CF II was $220 from MSA. And I was totally happy with it.

It depends on your car and transmission what will work for you. ScottieGNZ made his to work on an S30 with a Nissan transmission. I had to make some modifications to use it with my BW T5. JeffP made a downpipe for the S130s, and he may still be selling them. Jersey was talking about making downpipes for a bit, and this would work on any S30 I believe, as he made it to fit around a T5. If you can't find one, and they are hard to find, I suggest finding a good welder or shop to make one for you.

You'll have no trouble with the stock head gasket, or a FelPro for that matter. I'm running mine at 16 psi, and Shane ran his at 23 psi with no problems. The headgasket is usually the weak link when you get detonation, so if the engine is tuned right, headgaskets will not normally fail.

And I agree a twin setup on a V8, especially a Z makes good sense. The point was well made that the turbos are normal sized for a V8, and cheap, where a big single would be big bucks. The plumbing seems easier to contain, but it sounds like maybe not. I am soooooo looking forward to someone completing a successful V8 turbo Z setup!!

Lots of people do this. ScottieGNZ made some nice stainless units a few years back. I am one of the fortunate ones who bought one. Most folks just fabricate them from mild steel and coat them - chances are it will last long enough to upgrade your turbo

Lol! Pretty funny - it sure does stick out...

My Centerforce II put down the numbers you are targetting, and I ran it for 4 years never wearing it out. I replaced it when it started slipping on my current setup, and it is not badly worn. I'm considering using the old CF pressure plate with a puck disc, just to see how it works.

Nice! Sounds perfect. Love to hear feedback once you get it up and running.

And the "no-lag" feature of a supercharger ONLY applies to roots-type chargers that boost off idle. The Vortech and other centrifugal chargers make full boost only at redline, and substantially LESS boost at rpm points where the turbo is at full boost.

The mods are simple. You remove some of the plastic off the top, to make room to clamp a hose. You need to remove the pintle caps, or machine the intake larger to accomodate the caps (I removed mine, just be careful not to hurt the pintles). Just measure the hose carefully if you are using a stock rail. Electrically they are the same, resistance-wise and connector-wise.

I'm running my L28ET with a factory '86 300ZX ECU and getting about 27 highway, cruising at 80-85 mph. I'm quite happy with it.

It doesn't need to know TDC. It just need to know when to fire the spark, so it doesn't matter which cylinder. It gets 6 positions from the wheel in the dizzy, so in effect it has 6 TDCs, one for each cylinder.

Wow, that really sucks.

You don't need a custom fuel rail to run the SVO injectors. You can fit them to hoses and attach them to the stock rail. That said, I made my rail out of stock from Arizona Speed and Marine - forgot the URL, but a Google search will turn it up quickly.

I like the 215/60/14 personally, and it's an easy to find size. It's not too far off stock diameter, and 60 series has a fair amount of stiffness for good street handling.

I'm getting 313rwhp on a BONE STOCK turbine. Of course my compressor is upgraded to a TO4B, and it's not the most efficient thing out there. There are better flowing options for a T3 turbine as well...you can clip a stock wheel, upgrade to a stage 3, get a 10 blade, machine the stock housing, etc...

The A/R is the ratio of the area of the turbine exhaust divided by the radius of the snail at the point you measure the area. Essentially it gives you an idea of the restrictiveness of the turbine - smaller A/R gives faster spool and limits the top end more. The factory Z turbo turbine is 0.63, and is a good one to stay with for a street Z up to 350-400 rwhp.

They are low. Diesels are very low revving engines, and make torque very low in the range. Redlines are frequently at 5000 rpm and below. A good stall rpm for a turbo will generally be 3500 and above. I'd bet the stall in my Benz is below 2000.