SleeperZ

I'm somewhat unaffected as my Z is not daily driven; I drive a vegetable oil powered diesel Benz to work, so my fuel is close to free. And I agree with John, that "boycott" of one day obviously will do nothing. If you don't reduce demand, you will not reduce the price of fuel.

The difference in power made at the same boost level will be due to the density of the air, meaning how much cooler the air is after being compressed. At 7 psi, any stock Z EFI can fuel the increased density - it will just act like the ambient air is 30 degrees lower.

The turbo will work just fine without an intercooler. Obviously you won't be able to run as much boost as with the IC, but it will be more efficient than the stock unit, so your risk of detonation is less.

That sounds really great all told. Wow, 7000 miles already - I think I've driven 3-4k in the same amount of time (not in my Z though).

I think the main problem is the pipe from the exit of the DSM valve is too small, so you are creating pressure in the crankcase. My intake pipe between my MAF and the turbo is large enough to dump the boost without a rise in pressure, so even though my crankcase vent is tied in to the same place, there is no flow back into the crankcase on a boost dump. In other words, don't "T" it in, plumb it to the intake by itself.

Ooooooo, that's scary! I'm bringing out my Z from it's winter nap this Friday - now I'm thinking I'll replace the fuel filter, just because!

1st gen 300ZX with the V6 is the Z31 chassis. The mounting attachments for the "entire rear end" are completely different than the S30, or the S130 for that matter. The differentials will swap without much work, but that's all.

One issue that might rise with using the MAF between the "CBV" and the throttle is the sensor is calibrated to operate in ambient and colder conditions. Intake air, even when intercooled, is quite a bit hotter than ambient, and the sensor may have linearity problems (measurement error). Just a thought, don't know if that's the case.

I've hit 6500 before, and the ECU slammed on the fuel cut. Don't think you have much to worry about unless you went much further past 6500.

You never know what people consider obvious. It's just that the low flowing version of the SVO injector was a green top as well, but a different shade. And you never can tell with aftermarket OEM replacements - either research the part number, or flow test it.

Nice going! Any chance you are coming up to Bandimere? I am going Friday evening for the Club Clash, but if you can hit a Wednesday Test and Tune sometime, I need to try out my slicks.

Good luck tuning a stock N/A EFI with injectors rated 2x flow or more. Stock was 170cc/min.

It could be the right one, but the top's not brown. I'd try to get independant verification that is the correct part. If you can't do that, get it flow tested alongside the brown top to verify the same flow.

Sean's right. You could use stock parts and a hybrid turbo, getting the same performance for at least $1k less. Don't do it if you are on a budget. Check out James Thagard's twin turbo Z - he is using twin Mitsu turbos as well, and I know he's not on a budget - you can't be and run in the low low low 11's like he is.

So how are your plugs? What gap/type are you running? How is your cap and rotor? Do you have a weak coil?

I just wanted to say something regarding electrical causes for the boost issue. When I was running a factory 280ZX EFI, I had an issue come where the car would run fine under vacuum, but as soon as the manifold went positive pressure, it would bog out and not make boost. But if I slowly crept up on boost, not pressing the accelerator very much, I eventually could make a bit of boost. The problem I eventually discovered, after swapping my whole EFI with the Z31 not solving the problem, was bad plug wires. The engine would fire fine until load was applied, then the weak wires would not fire through the mixture, and voila! No boost possible. That's one scenario where an electrical problem will not allow boost, more or less.

If your fuel mixture is well controlled, and your intake temps stay down, a stock engine won't have any trouble at 18psi.

Oh, that's nice. There is something so elegant about the V, with the exhaust contained on the outsides, and the central intake.

My turbo conversion has been rock solid since I solved my ignition problems and swapped in the Z31 stuff. The car can be a daily driver, nothing I've fixed once has failed again. Of course I haven't used it as a daily driver for 2 years now, but that's the thing with older cars - expect to repair it and keep up with the maintenance. Several advantages I notice with not using my Z as a daily driver: Less tickets, less wear and tear, and the most interesting - the boost addiction isn't so strong. I drive the slowest car on the road every day. When I do get in the Z it could still have stock boost, and it would feel dangerously fast!!

Yes, and the Mustangs were 4 x 4-1/4".