SleeperZ

What a riot! Hehehe

What I am suggesting is to get the stock turbo EFI running on your engine before you make mods to tune the fuel. Unfortunately the ECU will not plug into the stock harness. You will need to swap the harness, ECU, AFM and distributor from a turbo, in addition to running the turbo injectors.

Considering a stock tb will not hold you back much until the 11s, 60mm is just fine. I use a 60mm Weber, and it is more than enough. Any bigger you may have too much throttle response on tip-in, unless you go with progressive linkage.

You may be too rich. If you are running higher than stock fuel pressure, 40% more fuel flow with the turbo injectors AND raising fuel pressure under boost, you must be rich rich rich. If you are jumping to the conclusion you are running lean because of your a/f meter, the meter will read lean under extremely rich conditions as there is tons of O2 in the exhaust from misfiring. Check your plugs to verify the mixture, but it sounds like your fuel system need to be rethought. You are running a stock turbo at near stock boost. Install the stock turbo ECU and chuck the "FMU" in the trash, and you should be fine.

Yes

Looking good! Good luck at Reynolds!

I am so relieved you have repaired it, and nothing major was broken. Enjoy the ride!

Wow, blowing out CVs with less trap speed than I. I feel lucky I've not wrecked my stock u-jointed half-shafts! I always carry spares, but I was starting to think I was still safe at my power level. Nice trap speed though, good luck!

I did mean "resist" heat. Plastic and rubber tubing will soften and swell, and eventually blow out. Usually volume of the intake is a second order effect on lag, meaning you won't notice. The intercooler itself is a large volume of air, and I noticed zero increase in lag when I installed my IC. So the size of the pipes will not play much a role in "increasing lag"; but flow velocity is important in maintaining throttle response. 4" pipe into the turbo will be fine - my turbo has a 2-3/4" inlet, and I modified my MAF with a 3-1/2" housing, so I just ran an air filter with a 3-1/2" ID to the maf, then gently necked it down to fit my turbo inlet.

I spent the big bucks and got an AEM universal. It has 3 different return orifices to tailor your regulator to the pump flow. I went with it because it will regulate over a wider range of pressure, starting low at 20 psi. I used lower than stock pressure when I'd just installed larger injectors but hadn't leaned out the ECU yet - adjusted fuel mixture by lowering fuel pressure (interim setup, no advantage to larger injectors yet). I found a cheap on-line source, and got it for $170.

Personally I'd not go larger than 3" anywhere, provided you have a throttle body with a 3" opening. I run 2" into my intercooler, and open it to 3" to match my tb. Anything in between will work fine. The heat resistance and cost of steel exhaust piping is why I went with it. The ideal would be aluminum if you can weld it, but the main reason for metal is it won't expand on you under boost. It also is durable and handles the heat.

Stock turbo - 300rwhp MAX! Dump it. The rest of your setup can support 400rwhp.

Looks like a killer setup, good luck with it. New installs always have little bugs and miscellaneous stuff that needs doing. And with 200 miles, I'd imagine the rings are seated. If everything else is good, step on it!

All excellent thoughts and points, including grameryjam's. I know my Z isn't particularly safe structurally. I do not intend to increase power by much more, if any, but what I've got now is dangerous enough. The brakes are good, but brakes are limited by reaction times and tires, which is why I seldom speed in the car faster than my trap speed. And I limit how much driving I do, reserving it for track events and the occasional weekend cruise. And I have no bumpers, but I agree, they were installed by the insurance companies wanting to limit their costs in low speed bumps. They are not a structural or major energy absorbing element in the car, and they are ugly. I'm welding impaired, so just welding in a cage or supports is beyond my abilities - I guess my take on the safety element is to limit my exposure in the car, and to be defensive as all-hell when driving. Sort of like speeding through stop signs to minimize the time in the intersection??

I'm betting it's a Z32 R200. What year diff? You are right about shipping - to Hawaii would probably cost more even if the diff was free...

You can save a buck if you want to use a DSM oil cooler. I was going to use it until I found a factory ZXT unit. The inlets look to be about 5/8", plenty big, similar to the ZXT. I got some spare parts if you need them.

Perhaps it's a mirrored image? Maybe the turbo is under the drivers seat, doubles as a seat warmer???

I'm using the factory hard lines - 5/16" feed and return. I used a 12mm feed to my pump, and -6AN lines after my fuel filter and before my FPR.

Realize the piping will have to change on ANY IC upgrade. It may be cheaper to do the piping only once with the right IC; the price of the IC rarely dominates the whole cost of installation and piping. And that 1st gen DSM IC is very restrictive with inlet/outlet smaller than 2", and a very small core that heat soaks quickly.

I realize it is risky, but I may have had the same issue when I bought brand new turbo injectors... Mine would not fire, and it seemed as though the pintles were stuck in the seats. Using a toothpick, I gently pushed up on the pintles and they snapped off the seats, and started working. I ran the injectors 2 years without any further issues.

Carbs are fine for high hp. But they have less tolerance for load variations; as a consequence they will not behave as nicely or efficiently at part-throttle. And don't do a 4 barrel - the L series intake manifold is notorious for poor fuel distribution, and that will hurt high hp applications.

It should work just fine. The coil controls come from the ECU, so distributor type is irrelevant.