SleeperZ

It is far easier to swap a whole motor, than just some parts, assuming you are starting from nothing. I'd make sure the oil isn't stinky, and the valvetrain is clean, with no badly worn lobes or rockers. If the car is running, do a compression test and wiggle the turbo impeller. My current engine (bone stock, replaced head gasket) I found in a U-pull-it for $150. After finding a bad turbo on it and pulling the head, I discovered it was a brand new '83 factory remanufacture. Compression tested within a psi across all 6.

Yeah, me too. I have too much invested in my solid. LJ is right, the hydraulics will compress some, as the check valve is undoubtedly somewhat springy and leaky on a flow reversal.

Check out this thread. http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?p=220631&highlight=#220631

I agree that the speed of the charge air and the small surface area of the pipe insides will have a minimal effect on the air temperature. I had my pipes chromate coated (black), just because that's what was available, and it prevents the corrosion of steel. But I do not have a nice looking engine compartment.

EXACTLY. And they don't want to lose money on it, hence the high price hoping it's worth it to someone.

You'd definitely get more selling the individual parts. I'd check out eBay to price some of the easy to ship go-fast items and maybe you can find a local buyer for the engine and tranny.

I'm thinking, "that's pretty cool"... Then I see what the bid is.

Well you got me there. It looks like a good turbo, although I've heard here at HybridZ that the stage III ten blade is preferred.

The stock turbine has 11 blades, and some upgraded turbines have 11 and 10. I've never heard of a 12 blade unit - not sure I'd recommend that as the more blades it has, the more likely it is to be heavier (more lag).

Yeap' date=' tried it this afternoon and you are right, it makes not difference on polarity. Strange though, it just seems like it would? On a side note, finally found some injector clips that actually fit my injectors and wired them up. As soon as I get the silicone removed from the plug on the injector, I should be ready to go![/quote'] Actually, because injectors do not contain magnetic elements (underhood temperatures), the pintle (moving part) is simply fabricated out of steel and driven by an electrically powered coil. The pintle moves out of attraction to the magnetic field - it cares not for polarity.

I suppose it can make a small difference running the IC outlet as short as possible to the throttle body. But with the large volume of air moving, and the marginal amount of surface area of the short pipe, there is not much heat lost or gained in the piping relative to the heat lost in the IC. But I agree it's the best way to run it, and that is a very nice "set of pipes"!

My turbo outlet and my IC are 2". My throttle body is 3-1/8". So I run 2" through the IC, then expand it out - first to 2-1/4", then 2-1/2", then 3", and had a custom piece expanded and welded to the end to match the 3-1/8". I had the whole tube set chemically coated to prevent corrosion, and yes, it's all mandrel bent pieces 18 gauge except for the 3" stuff.

You picked up boost?!!? That implies more restriction.

My pipes are 18 gauge, but they are 2" and 2-1/4". When I expanded it to 3" for my throttle body, the steel size jumps to 16 gauge. I've not seen 3" and larger available in 18 gauge - I was shocked how heavy my new exhaust is!

Wow, cool idea and good find! You mean the Skyline stub axle may fit in place of the 280Z stub!?! Makes for a nice CV joint connection...

Make sure to search the 6 cylinder tech forum, and the turbo forum. Oh, it's been done.

Thanks, that's looks like a useful piece for those of us who are welding impaired (me). I assume that's a standard T3 adapter? Have you priced it yet? Maybe it would fit the Audi wastegate...

Got a link?

The slight modifications include reversing the slope on the voltage input to the ECU, and calibrating the base value. Not trivial. A microcontroller with a good A/D and D/A could be programmed to do it, or if you are good at analog amplifier electronics, equally simple.