510six

You post made me very happy that I purchaced my Tech Edge wideband 02 . Their is nothing like seeing my 37.00 O2 sensor cycle right along with the shops O2.Still tuning with a "fuctioning " wideband is always a eye opening learning experience.Tuning boost + N20 can be a headache making experience.

I have a turbo stroker motor.A 3 liter is a somewhat expensive motor to build,If you want big HP #`s I would just put forged pistons in an L28 then invest in a turbo or some N20 .My first junkyard parts NA 3 liter cost around 2000 to have built.My turbo N20 motor has 4000 worth of parts and machine work in it.

When I was running my NA 3.0 liter L series stroker motor on N20 on slicks a Clutch Specalties 6 puck unsprung hub with a 2100 pressure plate.I have used the stock hydraulics with the exeption of using a 720 truck slave cylinder and a 1970 Datsun 510 adjustable slave cylinder rod and throw out bearing arm.The early 510 throw out bearing arms were very stout and allow adjustability with the 720 slave.This setup has worked with my current 2600lb pressure plate and over 150 drag lauches on slicks as well as many miles of street driving.Use a stainless steel line to your slave as I have bursted the stock ones.

Actually , everyone at the track that night was running around .3 off par.I can typically run a 11.1 or an 11.0 on a well prepped track on a good night. My best that night was an 11.31, so I could see a 11.9 second pass out of that car on a well prepped track on a cooler night.

I just beat a stock Z06 with drag radials and a cold air intake.It was on a Hot Humid night at the Redding ,CA drag strip with minimal track prep.He ran a very respectable 12.4@114 while I ran a 11.4@124 with my modified L30 stroker.I think a mildly modified turbo six with a "WELL" tuned shot of N20 and slicks could beat a Z06.But, your right for a stock car Z06`s are very fast.I just hope He thinks of my 510 when He`s writing the check for the payment.

My T56 is from a 98 Camero and uses Dextron IV, I only use Redline synthetic Dextron IV and it uses almost a gallon of fluid when bone dry.

I am using a Clutch Specialties Sintered Iron disc with a 2600lb pressure plate and it is holding over 500rwh and close to 500fpt with slicks on N20 and I have never had it fail. http://www.clutchspecialties.com/ When I had my Nitrous only car I was running a 6 puck clutch from Them and was very happy with the performance and price,although it may take a bit to get a clutch from them it is worth the wait.

I pulled my T56 after around 150 or so drag launches on N20.The front input shaft bearing was very loose and 2nd gear had begun to grind.When the tranny was dissasembled by the rebuilder damage was found on 2,3rd gears.He had a Viper internal upgrade kit for my T56(out of a 98 Camero) and replaced the front input and main shafts with stronger one`s and all syncro`s with Viper style synrco`s with steel shift forks and carbon fiber blocking rings.I was told that this rebuild should handle 600rwh.He had mentioned the parts supplier ???,if you want I will ask again.

Actually, the T56 that I have works quite well with the turbo 3liter stroker.I use a Toyota CT26 turbo and it provides useable boost at about 3000 rpm and the car pulls hills with no problem in 6th, mabey it is the extra torque from the 3 liter that makes it more tractable.I agree that a NA L28 wouldn`t be happy with a T56.

Well,2nd gear syncro started going out and 4th gear was getting a bit notchy ,so I decided to pull the tranny and found the front input shaft bearing to be very loose.After the rebuilder looked it over and found more damage to 1,2,3,4 gears I decided to upgrade to the tune of $1700.Unless you absolutely need the strength of a T56 I would strongly suggest looking at a KA 5 speed upgrade.Quoting the rebuilder "You have a Viper/Corvett transmission and will pay Viper/Corvett prices any time you go to purchace parts".

http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/sss510six/album?.dir=/15c7&.src=ph&store=&prodid=&.done=http%3a//photos.yahoo.com/sss510six It is much more than just a bellhousing.BTW I am having my T56 rebuilt after about 150drag runs with a 200hp shot of N20 .I am upgrading to a 700rwh conversion.

Several individuals on the forum have put 370cc injectors in a Z by modifing the stock AFM.If you do a search the info is readily avalable.Do you want to beat the Z06 on the drag strip?On a freeway roll on? road course?.,My receipe for a drag stip kill would be a upgraded clutch,LSD and a set of M&H 24X15X7.5 Slicks.I would run a mild turbo cam on the motor and at least upgrade the head gasket.I would have a 3" exhaust made from the turbo down pipe to an exhaust cutout, from there you can go cheap if you want.Assuming you have gone with 370cc injectors, a 80hp N20 shot running a port nitrous system http://www.dynotune.org ( the solinoids and jets are more reasonable) and Nos has some really trick soft line kits that simplify installation.A smart buyer on Ebay could setup a system with all the saftey system for about a grand.Done right and tuned with a wideband on a dyno should put the hurts on a Z06 on the drag stip.

I actually had a run in on the freeway, with the N20 bottle on .I was tuning with my wideband.When I got behind a Brand new yellow Z06 and it still had soft plates on it .To make a short story even shorter, I let off when I pulled about 20 cars on Him.N20 is my drug of choice.A couple of days before I was in a friend of mines turbo VW and He put a serious hurt on a Carrera 4 .He got to be the passenger when I burnt the Z06,Hey I felt obligated to return the favor.

I have used N20 on a couple of L series motors both being 3 liter strokers.If you are really interested in seting up a nitrous system properly(It might not be as cheap as you think) PM me. http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/sss510six/album?.dir=/15c7&.src=ph&store=&prodid=&.done=http%3a//f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/sss510six/my_photos BTW , the first motor ran a 12.5@110mph on a 120hp shot and the second ran a 10.96@127 with a turbo motor and a 200 shot.There are more options on how to plumb and tune a nitrous system than were avalable to me when I first started.

My turbo is a bone stock CT 26 off of an 89 Supra.My plan was to make a streetable car with the turbo and sick HP with the N20.The intercooler was a fabrication of a couple of friends of mine and it drops intake temps around 20* below ambient at idle on a hot day.It was a spacial limitation.

My plan was to build a 510 that would have decent streetable HP on boost and run low 11`s high 10`s on the NOS.With 275whp and 315fpt in a 2500lb car it ran a 12.6@106 and it easily puts the hurt on most high -po cars with that power level.Turning on the nitrous on the street isn`t really practical in my car unless you plan on doing some hyper legal speeds on the freeway, or humiliating a Z06.(it`s great fun, trust me)

For the very first run ever at the track a 12.9@108 is great, Talk to the Honda guys about how long it took to get into the 12`s.As for myself I had an intake hose blow off causing a lean backfire ,causing the air temp sensor to be destroyed then my car went dead rich, fouled the plugs as well.The car ran a 12.2@106 stumbling at the top end.I agree that with the 1.7 60` 240zprace's z should have run low 12's.I will have to try to talk him into putting an exhaust cutout on his car and tuning the FMU(as much as possible) at WOT with the WB02.

I was doing a little tuning on hwy 198 when I had a little run in with a Z06.Hey I figured, the bottle is on race gas is in the car the Tech Edge WB02 (which by the way is awesome) helped myself and a friend dial the car in on the N20, their is ice in the IC and a Z06 without hard plates on it.The least I can do is to ruin this guys night.All I managed to do was make his headlights really really small.I think the car is ready for the track.

If not a Powerglide?What auto are you going to be running?Who is making your tranny adaptor.Those are awesome #`s I can`t wait to see your #`s at 9000 plus rpm.

Actually, I do know how it goes in California.As I live about 45 min south of you. I don`t know if the bore spacing between the L series and the RB is the same, I do know that the RB series uses a similar crank driven oil pump as the VG30dett motors and that it would be pretty expensive to have all of the machine work done to convert an L series crank to RB oil pump or to convert to an external oil pump.my.2

How much is a RB20det going for these days.I would imagine it would end up being cheaper just to put a 3rd-4th Gen Supra drivetrain in a z.

http://www.maddat.com.au/ http://www.vg30.com http://www.datsuns.com http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/sss510six/album?.dir=/Unfiled+Photos&.src=ph&store=&prodid=&.done=http%3a//f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/sss510six/my_photos I have owned several 510`s over the years, be carefull they are very addictive.

18psi in your car , I would like to see that on slicks on the track.

So are you going to the track on the 7th????240zprace?Mabey you can talk your buddy from Fresno into running my 510?

Actually, i am in Tulare and 240prace is in Lemore.Their are a few fairly high hp z`s in the area.If your looking to do a six cyl Vern at Raver Motorsports has a 3 liter race prepped block that could be built to your specs. Give Him a call if interested at 7334711.We might be heading to Famoso Raceway outside Bakersfield on the 7th of May .PM me if you would like more info.