camerashy

I'm using illuminas. Because I've gone with the MR2/280Z strut combo for the 280z, the ones that came with the MR2 struts are too small in diameter to fit the outer strut housing. Apologies John, wasn't aware they were that different, I presume you mean the inside step that seats the strut tube?

Urgently after a pair of gland nuts that will fit the wider diameter 280Z strut tubes. Not interested in 240 or 260Z as they will be too small. Let me know what you have! Cheers James

PM'd you.

Beast! It's a mini Delica!

I have one. I also have some RB26 ITBs for sale. See my for sale thread and send me a PM. Can work out something on the pair. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/115723-garage-clearout-assorted-z-parts-oem-and-aftermarket/

After an N42 intake to ship to Senza Pari in USA for modification. Anyone got one they'd like to sell me (preferably non-EGR?)? Cheers James

To give a bit of background... CYLINDER HEAD - I am keeping the L28 in my 280Z, so far I've had the N47 head ultrasonically cleaned, and the great local shop milled the most minimal amount they could off to deck it flat. The chambers seem to be in great condition, no cracks anywhere. They also milled the manifold side for me. BLOCK - The block is a standard bore (STD pistons, STD bearings etc) N42 block which I had magnafluxed, decked, steel shot paddled and the paint burnt off in the oven. I've vacuumed and washed it out thoroughly. I've since painted the block and replaced the core plugs with some nice new brass ones from Summit with a bit of Permatex just to be sure they stay sealed I've amassed a great number of 'shiny bits' over the past couple of years, some nice trumpets, standard length runner Cannon manifold, MS3 EFI (soldered it myself, tested it, quite proud ), the Tomei adjustable cam gear, Tomei oil pump, LD28 water pump, Kameari Timing Gear set. I've also got a spanky new timing chain, new rod bearings and new crank bearings all ready to fit. Retrospectively, some of this may not be necessary but I have the attitude of 'well I have it, AND if it works together, I should make use of it' attitude. EXHAUST - I have a TRUST exhaust manifold that I am considering getting jet-hot coated or some equivalent, as well as a Fujitsubo Legalis exhaust. I would like to make a bulletproof, reliable engine, ideally using the parts I already own that I could drive across Canada in a heart beat, at a moments notice, that I could still take to the track and have A LOT of fun with. That would be comfortable running on 87-89 octane fuel if it had to (rural Northern Canada can be a little...starved of higher rated fuels). I drove the car before I stripped it down and I loved it then, the L28 roar, the way the back end would get squirrelly in the wet. Before someone says 'pay Rebello lots of money' I have so far loved the building process, the learning process and really feeling like I've put blood, sweat and tears into my cars build. So while I realise I can't port/polish myself and that boring the cylinders is best left to professionals (I certainly don't have the machine shop for it!), I would love to be able to do as much myself (within reason) as possible and really get to 'learn' my engine, take the time, documenting everything, tolerances, and really learning every nuance of it that I can. I mean, it's fun! The engine is being backed up by the proper support systems (Koyorad, new stainless fuel lines, coilovers with usable spring rates, CV axles etc etc). I should state, that I walk/cycle to work, and this is my only car (I have a work truck if I need to get places that public transport can't get me) so while it isn't a 'money no object build' I may have more flexibility than others might do to build it As I understand it, I'm doing the obvious things so far 1. EFI 2. Good exhaust header/exhaust 3. Lightened flywheel 4. Timing - getting it right 5. Reliable spark - I'm going to be using the EDIS system that BRAAP has so kindly documented in such detail. I was thinking that the OER ITBs would make a great (sounding ) addition (as well as allowing me to use the stock injectors), and that the rocker arms that ZCCJDM stock would help lighten (thus improve reliability) the valvetrain a little being that it's suggested to replace them and the lashpads anyway. Possibly an overbore with Datsunspirit piston/rod combo to lighten up the rotating mass (but with reduced valve recesses). And sending the head to Brian? Does any of that make sense? Any thoughts would be welcome. You guys have imparted a great deal of knowledge though this forum, much of which that I feel I've absorbed over the past few years, but when it comes to an engine build, no matter how many times I read the Honsowetz book, I end up feeling more 'I dont know where to begin' than when I started! I found MONZTERS build especially inspiring, the attention to detail and ruthless matching of parts certainly stopped me in my tracks to say 'stop buying shiny things, start investing thought' #The long and the short of it#: I have shiny parts, time, higher budget than many, want super reliable drivetrain system that I won't outgrow or feel 'limited' by in 5 years time for weekend trackdays but that I can also take on thousand mile roadtrips. How should I invest my time, money and thought? And principally, should I stick with my N47 head? Cheers James p.s. mybuild thread (with many more details) is here - http://www.retrorides.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=readersrides&action=display&thread=86608

Glad you tracked it down

Correct forum you want is http://www.zclub.net chap. There are been numerous threads of horror stories (my first UK car an example before I emigrated) if you have your heart set on a Z, DON'T rush into it. Trust me on that, they are more common that you think especially if you're happy with a good, near mint import. For goodness sake be patient and see if you can get one of those guys to go with you.

Sorted now, have found one. Yahoo JP comes through again!

bump.

After a secondhand intake for triples, preferably FET (missed one on ebay!) or Tomei, what have you got? If it's an oddity with a common vacuum rail, all the better. Condition not super duper important. PM or reply on here. Thanks again

Canadian dealer price as of 4 days ago was $268 CAD per side.

Without trying to sound like an ass, why would you *want* non-greasable ones?

Bought a TTT moustache bar, but the studs in my old R200 cover appear to have fused, no amount of heat/liquid nitrogen/vice and breaker bar wants to get them out, infact the vice snapped in two :! If anyone has a Finned R200 Diff Cover they're willing to let go, please let me know. Cheers James

Project Hugo? It was one of the reasons I ended up with a Z in the first place...was an incredibly involved thread, and then...silence. Conspiracy theories welcome, but really, I'm wondering if somewhere on the bowels of the internet someone has found out what happened to the build?

As above. After a pair, preferably no cracks, but I'll consider them all the same. Need shipping to Ontario, Canada ($33 by USPS flat rate) Reply or send me a PM. Cheers James

PM'd you Apolly

Nice! Just checked out the photos on the Toyota L6 thread, very nice indeed. Are they just stock 'zg' flares from MSA in fibreglass? Or something else?

Really nice piston. Do I spy a Skyline lurking in the garage or do my eyes deceive me with that headlamp bowl?

What are the air tubes like front under the front wings? Nice to see some other Ontario Z'rs on here!

the backing board is fibreboard epbz see here - http://www.retrorides.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=readersrides&action=display&thread=86608&page=8 (may or may not help) if i was doing it again...i'd just buy some thin fibreboard and steam it in the shower for half an hour and press it to shape.

+1, if you don't find a buyer for the busted CF ones, I'd like a price, think we talked about this some months back. Cheers James

Any thoughts on these 'ebay jobbies'? They are machined like the arizonaz car ones but no word as to what grade alu 6061 grade, and looking at the arm itself, it appears it just threads straight into the aluminium. But puzzled as to what looks like a weld on the 'U' plate here.. Full link here - http://www.ebay.com/itm/230691393573?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

So I am slowly assembling parts for my build, and have gotten a bit stuck on the subject of fender flares. Theres no doubt the Watanabes I've ordered from Kiyo necessitate their use...however..I can't for the life of me find the ones I want. So I decided an informative topic may help others and hopefully let me track down the ones I want. I have noticed occasionally, either due to poor fitment or possibly due to a not-so-perfect mold, flares can appear slightly distorted, and not 'round' around the wheel itself, I am very keen to avoid this happening! The flares I'd like to replicate on my Z are like these, with the quite significant pointed taper at either end of the flare....something like this. or this.. There are seemingly infinite different shapes of flares...: The Z Store - The seem to be slightly wider at the back, with the traditional rivet hole locations and a 'rounded' end to the flare extending quite far down the arch. ----------------------------------------------------------------- Z Force Productions - 'BAMF' Flares, very wide at the rear, 3 1/4 inches or something, but unlike the Z store they are squared off at the ends, atleast on the rear flares, the fronts seemingly a little more rounded, similar to the Z stores. ----------------------------------------------------------------- Classic Datsun - Similar to the Z store flares , shown here in urethane, again, considerably wider at the rear, although I haven't found measurements of actual width as yet. Rounded ends. ----------------------------------------------------------------- ZCCJDM - Again similar to some of the others mentioned already, rounded ends, rears wider. ----------------------------------------------------------------- But I have so far been unable to find the ones from the Maroon ZG 240Z (or have I misidentified them as being something other than what is widely available??) or like the ones that feature on alot of Hakosuka Skylines...any help...gladly received! Any suggestions?