Avernier
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Everything posted by Avernier
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Stock ecu, 440's, safc/fcd will net you almost 400 at the wheels. Ebay manifold works fine. Use it. Stock toyota gte headgasket for life. Arp studs are nice too. Thats all you need.
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No. I already posted which cars work and which dont.
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Ha! Haha...dying over here.
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Mega price drop to 800$
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Who's your buddy? Im pretty involved in the cressida world. 2vvti swapped cressidas is a rarity.
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Duh!!! You're running 15% larger injectors with no tune! Quit! You're washing your cylinder walls.
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Craigslist motor 500$, craigslist r154, came with stock clutch 300$, 200$ bellhousing on a forum, 35$ slave cylinder. 7$ clutch line advance auto, stock fuel pump (already on the car, 280z) made my driveshaft, made my mounts, 30$ drop from metal supplier, 150$ aem uego ,150$ ebay intercooler kit. Drove awesome. Dude who bought it drove it 15hr's home to florida. No issues. Very fun, very cheap. My welder is a hobart handler 140. 350$ brand new. My angle grinder is a dewalt from home depot. 50-70$. Theres nothing wrong about doing it the way i did. This forum is super hung up on over building. My car ran awesome. My current does too. And cost only a little more.
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I did my 1j swap for like 2k all in. Easy peasy. Started on a wednsday. Was racing idiots on saturday night.
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I know exactly what he's saying, and your way off. Why do people post so much on this forum when they have no clue what they're talking about?
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Im posting this in here since its a really specific deal. If its a problem please move it. Non vvti stainless manifold-no leaks-braced- t3 flange welded to t4 flange. Could use a decent port job, still worked awesome for me just the way it sits. Holset he341-killer turbo, minimal shaft play, i ran 10-14psi, spooled fast, hit like a freight train. Tial mvr 44mm wastegate, vband spec, short screamer pipe. All springs go with kit. 4" down pipe. Pie cuts. I mig'd it so its ugly but it still rules. I'll include an extra 4" vband flange so you can build your own if you want. -10 ss braided drain line, and banjo bolt for the feed. I ran a rubber hose and never had issues. But i understand people wanting stainless lines too. 1300$+shipping.
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10.5 afr's? Thats just about not possible. That makes me instantly not give a crap about anything else you say.
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Correct on return line sizing. Think about it, x amount of fuel goes down a line y dismeter, under pressure, and some fuel is consumed by the engine, that means less than x amount of fuel remains to be returned to the tank. No way in hell you EVER need a larger return than feed.
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Stock jzx100's (vvti1jz) make 600whp, on e85 on stock fuel lines. -6 will definately flow enough for 600whp on pump, and e85 too.
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Well, reading is stupid. How about you measure every feed and return on every efi car in the junkyard and report back with how many have larger returns than feeds?
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One number difference, or same size feed/return is the standard. 3/8ths line supports 600whp and e85 without issue, so running a -10 feed seems like a foolish waste of money to me.
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The ecu is smarter than you. It wont let you hurt the motor until you throw a piggy back on it.
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I ran 3" on stock twins. Fuel cut doesnt kick in until 14.7 psi, you can expect the boost to go from 10psi to 12-13 psi. Its fine. You're overthinking it.
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Why would you run a larger return than feed?
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I mean, there are lots of work arounds for the stock setup. Billet mustache bar ??$ Rt front diff mount 50$ Wolf creek axles 900$ 280zx/maxima disks 200$ But i still have the non adjustable rlca's and i still have the pita spindle pin and stub axle. I canweld, have access to a tubing bender and possess adequate knowledge and intellegence to successfully swap the s13/14 rear subframe in where i'll gain: Rear disk brakes, easily upgradeable to z32 Short nose r200 Cv axles Fully adjustable multi link Geometry correction due to mounting And parts availability unrivaled by most production cars. All for ~200$ all in.
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I mean, there are lots of work arounds for the stock setup. Billet mustache bar ??$ Rt front diff mount 50$ Wolf creek axles 900$ 280zx/maxima disks 200$ But i still have the non adjustable rlca's and i still have the pita spindle pin and stub axle. I canweld, have access to a tubing bender and possess adequate knowledge and intellegence to successfully swap the s13/14 rear subframe in where i'll gain: Rear disk brakes, easily upgradeable to z32 Short nose r200 Cv axles Fully adjustable multi link Geometry correction due to mounting And parts availability unrivaled by most production cars. All for ~200$ all in.
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Im lowered around 6 inches in the back if i had to guess, not 100% sure exactly how much lower than stock it is. Thats a huge contributing factor to the axles. I also drift this car pretty regularly, so clutch kicking is taking out the mustache bars. I guess its not made to deal with that sort of shock load.
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I dont believe it ran that much.
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Solid mounted mustache bar, reinforced front diff mount, longnose r200, welded
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Its honestly not that loud.
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I'll try and get some for you. Broke another mustache bar about 10 minutes after that. S13 rear subframe this week hopefully.