Avernier

no idea, never boosted an l28 before.

thank you. i was up there to verify that the engine was straight in the bay, and i liked how all of the hoses and piping looked. its a different perspective for sure. longer piping makes more boost response lag. piping should be as small as possible for your power goal, and as short as possible given what space you're working with. anyone who doesn't run a same-sided intercooler on an l28et is doing so purely for aesthetics, and sacrificeing theoretical performance in the process. not only that, but in my personal opinion, same sided intercooler looks so much more rad to me than a million miles of piping. and to top it off, anyone who is running the intake off of the turbo and through the core support for a "cold air" effect is wasting their time, sure the air is cooler, but its going straight into a super heater, then through an intercooler and then to the engine. i would be super excited to see someones iat datalogs that show the difference between a filter in the engine bay and one in front of the core support. i bet the difference is not even enough to begin to justify the work and clutter and tubing management. /soapbox

i honestly sit in my car at idle, and get no buzzing, no moving visors, maybe a very faint buss feeling, but i've never had anyone say man, this must be solid mounted. people are generally very surprised how smooth it is. inline sixes are naturally smooth running, but the jz is exceptional. the crossmember i make bolts about 4-6inches back from the factory crossmember. angle iron and dom tubing is all it is. super simple to make.

My crossmembers are for solid mounts only btw, i never found a reason to soft mount a jz, theres no vibration

In that case, the crossmember style mount is super easy to make. I've done 3 so far. If you can measure bolt hole center to center, i could throw one together for you.

Seriously?

beta motorsports makes some.

I went for the cleanest setup i could manage. I had to cut the inlet/outlet off of my intercooler to move the bends closer together, and i only use 5 couplers/ the coldside piping will get welded someday and then it will only be 4 couplers. The piping is short and boost response rules.

i've wired a few rb's with stock wiring harness, i see zero reason to have someone else build you a wiring harness. nissan efi is super simple. read any 240sx rb swap wiring guide and that will tell you the functions of the wires you need to supply power to. theres tons of 280z pinouts too. it seriously shouldn't take more than a couple hours of research, and 1 hour of soldering. you'll have a better understanding for future diagnostics as well.

I used the factory banjo bolt. Just rotate it towards the brake booster instead of straight up. It has a locating pin, but it doesnt really matter. Make sure you add a one way valve in the vacuum line

Mine is just over 300 at the wheels, and its stupid, but i run tiny tires.

my personal belief is that if you plan to run 450+ hp, a super single or multidisk clutch is the only way to go. but be realistic with yourself. an ACT stage 3 will hold like 460 ft lbs or something, and cost like 4-500$ a super single will be around 1500$, a multidisk setup will be even more than that. how soon do you expect to make 600? you can run 300hp on stock clutch. dont misunderstand me, im not doubting you, but the likelyhood of you making 600hp in the next three years is slim and none. if you do, upgrade the clutch then.

beta's kit is not bad, nor is it exorbitantly priced. i build my own crossmembers, i've done 3 now, not bad if you have a miter saw, a welder and patience.

bmw guys claim 500 at the wheels. i know they shift like buttahhhhhhhhhh.

I disagree with the above^ at least in my case. my car is very quiet when cruising, in fact, i'd say a majority of the v8 cars around with mufflers are louder than my car when cruising. once the wastegate opens up, thats a whole other story, but at least when you keep it out of boost its very low key. its very difficult to capture exhaust sound in video, but i have tried, at least idling. i'll get a drive by video when I have someone to hold the camera. also, excuse the mess, i've been driving this thing for two days. have not wrapped the loom or cleaned up much. my down pipe leaves much to be desired, but it gets the job done until i decide to buy that very expensive mandrel bent stainless tubing. no idle air control valve, its been sitting over 24 hours, high today was around 40, so the motor was very cold, and thus idling around 550-600. that causes my hood to make a bunch of noise. sorry for that. also, that hole in the fender is covered by an aluminum soot shield that makes it look substantially better. not currently installed because im about to trim the exhaust flush with the fender.

i have a 1.5 jz with a holset sing turbo, and a 4 inch down pipe that exits from the fender. its super quiet even with no muffler until the wastegate opens, but that also dumps straight out of the fender. its nice, because cruising around is pretty quiet and you can easily have a conversation in the car, but when you get on it, its loud, like you'd expect.

How tall are you. Im 6'1" and sit in a bride low max all the way back, i have a mkiii r154 and its way too far forward for me. In a z you want an r154 with the tripod shifter or a saturn sky/pontiac solstice tranny. They're about 6 inches longer than a mkiii trans. The truck trans all have transfercases built into the tail section, you can swap the tail section for an r154 tail but its really not awesome because the gearing is pretty short. Im currently working on an e30 trans adapter. Should be an awesome affordable option.

On these cars, with stock rear arms, toe and camber is a night mare, especially if you are lowered. Due to the nature of the design, it toes in drastically under compression which causes instability in the rear end. It makes it feel like the rear is trying to come around or lead the front. I battle it daily. Cant wait to finish my rlca's

PMOI is polar moment of inertia for any who arent aware.

"Technically" a short, square wheelbase car will be more capable no matter what, provided the driver has the capabilities to drive that car.

They arent measured like that. Holsets use an area formula. For instance, my turbo has a 9 or maybe 12 cm housing. It makes comparing holsets to other turbo's a pain in the ass. I should see 450-MAYBE 500hp on my cammed 3.0 litre. I 'll probably max it out at 18psi, butttttttt, i'll see 18 psi at 2700rpm. So it spools mega fast.

I run 100% solid mounts, jz's are incredibly balanced engines. You would never think it was solid mounting. Also means zero movement. Even with rubber or poly mounts, i would still have no clearance issues.

Basically the same turbo, 12cm exh housing? 3 5/8" vband out the back?

Firstly, yes i did confuse you. I apologize. Secondly, i've owned 2 1jzgte. Im not condemning anyone who has a 2jzgte, im frowning upon anyone who tells someone who wants <550whp that a gte is needed, or more affordable. It isnt.

Is300 na-t, cressida 1jz, 280z 1jz, different 280z 1.5jz. All sold except the 1.5jz build. May i ask why you feel the need to chime in on jz threads when you're building a 7m? Anyone with experience knows better than that. The sad thing is that is not an insult to you, your work is well thought out, and well executed. Im about to attempt pie cuts tonight and i hope they look 1/10th as good as yours. But all of your effort is wasted on that engine. It WILL blow the headgasket, and you will fix it, and then it will rod knock. Theres never been a 7m that didnt. Even the factory race team in jgtc had these issues. Thats why the jz was developed.