Avernier

Indeed.

Im going to purchase one of these: http://www.griproyal.com/shop/product/mirror_kit_red/ I think it looks better than factory, and hopefully quality is decent. Pretty cheap for a big upgrade in asthetics.

Spinning dorito's are rotaries, wasnt taking a shot, its my one sided opinion. I have a sbc swapped 48 coupe desoto. I just hate the way v8'ssound. And how they feel, and how they sound, and how they sound. I also feel that they're for the most part a less impressive design. Not enough mains, excessive displacement, no real focus on VE. They just bum me out. I agree with the guy above that wants to swap in a jz, and then you tell him to spend way more money on a turbo v8. Its just meh. And they sound bad

Spinning dorito's> I6> everything else>v8

Its easy, and you can do it. If mark does it, and hes charging 5-600, he's probably relooming it with something nice and gutting it of all the unneeded bs. It will also start first try and look awesome.

as far as pnp units are concerned, i *THINK apexi pfc and aem are the only two options. however, any standalone should be usable if you wire their connectors in place of your own. for instance, im using an aem ems2 from a honda on one of my jz's, and i used a stock jz harness and wired honda ecu connectors on in place of the factory toyota ecu connectors. loaded a jz basemap and ran with it.

Who has a banhammer around here?

Its not a seperate harness. Its one harness thatgoes from the ecu to every component on the engine, including alt and starter. All self contained.

its gonna be close. but i doubt there will be clearance.

the wiring between the ECU and engine are different, however, you need not touch any of that to make the engine run. you only need the above listed terminals to make it run, and those terminals are the same between all jz's. its how toyota wires most of its engines from that era. sorry for being unclear. without knowing exactly which ford engine and ecu you used, its not possible for me to list all the reasons the jz electronics are better than fords. the ecu is not limited in the sense that its a very precise and accurate system for running the engine, its VERY adaptive, and excellent for making the engine run reliably under stock or basic bolt on conditions. i don't really see a reflashable ecu as a good thing. The jz ecu works well in conjunction with an safc and fcd. i personally would not try to make 1000whp on a reflashed stock ecu. i've seen 550-600 on a stock jz ecu with the safc setup i mentioned earlier. your jz uses two intake cam sensors and a 36-2 crank trigger wheel which by stock standards is pretty damn good. and its already there. you don't have to add anything to make as much power as you need. there are tons of options for you to choose from. you can use an emanage ultimate and tune your car as if it was a standalone basically. tons of options.

Btw, vvti wiring is IDENTICAL to non vvti. These engines use a self contained efi harness. No matter what the ecu is doing to the engine, your still only providing 12v to +b, +b1, batt and igsw. And 12v again to injectors, coils, and o2/iacv

http://jzxproject.com/bbs/index.php?showtopic=9461&page=1 Thats the link to mark panics wiring thread. Its the only place with his contact info. Quit comparing the way the japanese do things to the way american companies do things. Its insulting. You can build a ford with a hammer. Jz's are a bit more precise, and the tuning that accompanies that is as well. Accept it snd love it.

Noise isnt an issue, i can attest to that. However, theres really no reason to do it unless you cant fit the tubing under the car, and yes, a turbo motor WILL soot up the windshield regardless of tune.

Standalones use stock harness. How much power are you wanting? Why stand alone? Its about 6-7 wires to make the jz run on stock wiring/ecu. And with an safc you can make upwards of 450whp with the stock ecu. Over 600hp with ane manage ultimate. You could also go power fc which will plug into the factory harness like stock, and run the engine with no harness mods. Also. 1000$ for a stock swap harness? Have you even priced one? Thats not even a real number. Dr. Tweak is more expensive than most, and the work is absolute garbage, and he doesnt even cost that much. Panic wiring is about the best you can get and is more affordable than any i've seen. Wiring specialties is not impressive and certainly doesnt warrant the prices they ask. But to be honest, any idiot in the world can wire one of these engines in an afternoon. Its very very simple.

On l28 its basically not possible. Mine is fender exit on my 1.5jz only because a 4" down pipe wont fit under the car. Hood exit will soot up the windshield. Both look stupid. Just dont do it.

Mine are gone as well.

Im freakin with you. I bought a 15 gallon drag cell with sump for 150$, and a 70$ surge tank. They make fittings for the fuel rail to convert to -6, or -8. -6 will definitely handle 600whp on e85, or pump. Heres what i did yesterday. Fairly easy. Took a couple of hours. Made a skeleton out of 3/4" angle iron, and used 1x1 square bar welded between the frame rails to hang it from. Should be sweet, and maintenance free. The stock lines wont flow enough to make 600 i think. Gotta do something.

Or a mkiv gte pan.

Jesse o'buzz can fab you some mounts. He owns j9 fab. Website is j9fab.com really awesome dude. Btw, you dont have to clearance the transat all.

There are only two jz oil pans. Front sump, and rear sump. Front sump is on: IS300, GS300, JZX80-JZX110, crowns, corona Rear sump is on Jza70, jza80, soarer, sc300 They are all the same. You will have to drill and tap for non turbo models. Really simple. You need rear sump for an s30/130

I have the exact same kit and im hoping to work on it this weekend. We shall see. I'd be curious to see your ign switch pinout, also my harness only has a wire for third brake light, doesnt have wires to the tail light for brake lights.

The hose I would use is ptfe lined and e85 compatible. I can run AN fittings straight to the fuel rail. The fuel cell is a drag style cell woth a very small rear sump. It would not provide much protection in a sustained high g turn or sloshing as experienced in the transition of a drift. the surge tank would simply add stability to the fuel pick up. Sounds like I've decided to run -8 to the surge tank, and -6 to the rail from the surge tank. Contemplating running a c6 corvette fuel pressure regulator so that i can run a return less system. That would cut down on the amount of ss hose I would have to buy and route. Need to research that setup more and find out how capable it is in regards to flowing enough e85.

Actually, chromoly does crack over time. To stay legal chromoly cages have to be replaced every 3 years, and they cant be mig welded if you expect it to pass tech. Tig only.

Let me start with: i've never had anything with a fuel cell before, or an fuel lines. First question: Can i run stainless braided from the surge tank to the fuel rail, which is around 10 feet or something? I've heard that you should run hard lines over long distances, but wasnt sure if stainless braided ptfe lined hose would swell enough to make it shitty. The reason i want to do full ss braided is because the factory feed and return are only 8mm, and im not sure that they can flow enough e85 to make 400 squirrels. My fuel cell has -8 feed and return, so i was going to take advantage of that. Next question, i'm running one of those aluminum drag cells with the little sump in the back. Im going from that, to a walbro 255 inline, to the surge tank, which has a 255 in tank inside. Hoping to avoid a shit storm on the road course or at a drift event. Sound pretty solid? Suggestions?

You cant use the stock holset wastegate. It cannot vent enough exhaust to prevent crazy high boost levels. So you need to add an external wastegate. That means modding the factory manifold or going aftermarket.