Avernier

Here's a pic.

Ebay 1jz t4 mani, welded on a t3 flange, cleaned it up and braced it. Running a holset he341, adequate frame rail clearance, and it was cheap!

Thats the longest i've ever seen a 7m run without a blown headgasket or rod knock. Congrats.

He's refering to polar momentum. High polar momentum means weight at the front and back. It makes the car less nimble but allows the car to send you tons of feedback and also allows the car to slip out slowly and linearly when the tires break traction at the limit. Mid engined cars are capable of better response, but are far less forgiving due to the low polar momentum. They tend to spin very easily without much warning. When they do spin , they do so very tightly, without making big sweeping arcs. A z car will scream at you when you get close to the limit, an mr2 just lets you **** up.

Has anyone in this thread other than me built an na-t 2jz? Anyone other than me had a jz swapped z car? Alot of people posting here are building 1000hp blocks to run 350whp. To me that seems pointless. Non vvti ge's have forged internals factory btw, so aside from no oil squirters and higher compression, they're nearly as capable as gte's. it seems like a bunch of people with zero experience chiming in on a subject they arent at all familiar with. Im on my 4th jz build, and have been working with them exclusively for the past 5 years. Some of the things said in this forum are mindblowing. Where do you guys get your info?

Na2j nonvvti will take 500-600 all day bone stock with no complaint with zero issues. Its been done thousands of times. The key is in the tuning.

Theres no need to go any thicker than a stock gte gasket. On my 1.5jz, i run around 10.5:1 compression and have zero issues at 18psi and pump gas. Vvti ge blocks are the weakest, and also the highest compression, and many msny people have run 14-17 psi with 60 trims on a 100% bone stock motor and 93 octane. The extra compression helps off boost torque and spools the turbo faster. Results in an engine with great response. The combustion chamber shape and design helps combat some of the predet issues earlier engines are prone to.

I got 25ish on my non vvti 1j 280z. Totally stock. They run pig rich with factory management. An safc does wonders for fuel economy.

If your planning to go with triples, mega squirt or aem v1 is wayyyyy cheaper.

thats excellent.

Mine has been tested to be accurate within 50-75 rpm. Also, they make them from 4-16,000rpm. And you can customize it anyway you want to match existing gauges or to change the look. I loved my defi stuff when i had it in my last car. Just gets expensive when you try to get all of the gauges.

Its ok. The light bulb sockets for the back lighting are garbage, but all of the gauges work, and seem decent. The oil pressure gauge is a smidge slower to react than i'd like. For 130$ its a steal though.

I just finished my gauge cluster for my AE86 corolla. Speedhut was having an awesome sale, so I got the revolution 3 3/8 tach for 129$. quality is decent, and it somewhat matches my VDO's.

Mid nineties, dont use a cressida cable, too short. 4 cylinder camry is also too short. V6 camry, has the 3 litre in it, or a early nineties celica.

Toyota camry or cressida or celica pedal, just cut the top off and weld it to the z pedal, then use a celica or v6 camry throttle cable. That eliminates the linkage and converts it to cable.

ahhh.. my calipers have the fins, and the larger pistons. i run them with the 300zx disks, and they don't clear steelies, but do clear my enkie 92's.

factory steelies will NOT clear the caliper. i tried it about a year ago, its not the diameter, its the face clearance.

In my experience, your afr's sound pretty good. Pretty rich at idle, but that helps keep it smooth, off boost cruising sounds excellent, not lean but not so rich you run into cylinder washout problems, and on boost i always shoot for 11-11.5:1 afr's.

there. should be complete. you guys let me know if i missed anything.

Post edited to include 2jzgte, more to come.

While reading the forums here looking for info on swapping my 1.5jz into my 280Z, I noticed a substantial amount of misinformation. So basically, I just wanted to lay down some FACTS about the Toyota family of inline 6's. Before we start, I want to let it be known that I give absolutely Zero credit to Toyota's M series of engines. Most notably, the 7M-GE, and 7M-GTE. Due to a great number of engineering/assembly mistakes, these motors tend to blow head gaskets, develop rod knock, and suffer from numerous oiling inefficiencies. I will still cover these engines, but if its brief, I apologize, and absolutely DO NOT recommend anybody swap them into anything. In fact, in order to avoid conflict, and also to appear less biased, i won't cover them. This can be a JZ thread. First the art of Toyota engine code. Example: 1JZ-GTE 1: Indicates generation. JZ: Block code G: In early Toyota motors it indicates a sport tuned head, or Dual over head cam. T: Indicates the presence of turbo/s NOTE: there is only one T, redagdless of how many turbo's are present. Z: would indicate a supercharger. E: Electronic fuel injection The engines your most likely to want, and or have contact with are: 1JZ-GTE 1JZ-GTE VVTi 2JZ-GTE 2JZ-GTE VVTi 2JZ-GE 2JZ-GE VVTi 1JZ-GTE 1JZ-GTE is a 2.5 litre inline 6 making 280hp and 268 ft/lbs. These motors have forged internals, and its not uncommon to make in excess of 500hp on stock block, and stock head/cams/valve train. the shortcomings of this motor are literally limited to the factory equipped twin turbo's. Toyota used a low rotational mass ceramic turbine wheel in the ct12a turbo's. Although this decreased spool time and increased responsiveness, the ceramic blades tend to delaminate with prolonged use above 15psi. People have managed up to 22 PSI with them, although not recommended. The key to making the stock turbo's last is all in heat management. The factory Y pipe is extremely inefficient. This both limits the turbo's boost response, but also traps heat around the fragile ceramic turbines. there are aftermarket y pipe/downpipe combo's for around 200$ these are a godsend. They're cheap, they work, and they extend the life of the twins. there are also some very nice Japanese divorced y pipes which are even better, but are quite costly. 1JZ-GTE were offered in two different oil pan layouts. the first is front sump, these were offered in X chassis (Chasers, Cressida, Cresta, Mark II), and rear sump, which was offered in JZA70 Supras and Soarers. For the Z, you'll need a rear sump oil pan, but that can be found in many many USDM vehicles due to the shared block of 1JZ and 2JZ. It should be noted that early 1JZ from 92 or previous have flawed ecu that has capacitors prone to leaking. this is reparable by anybody who can solder, or by driftmotion.com 1JZ-GTE VVTi These are alot like the non VVTi 1JZ Â in that the basic format is the same. Same block, internals minus pistons, and displacement. The difference is all in the pistons, head and ECU. The VVTi stands for variable valve timing intellegence. On the intake cam, an oil pressure solenoid advances and retards timing as the ECU tells it to using information gathered like TPS, RPM, LOAD, and airflow. This helps to bump up lower end torque, and spool the turbo faster. This engine uses a single CT15b turbo but produces more torque. The compression ratio is bumped up to 9.0:1 and the air flow sensor is now MAF instead of MAP. Â The engine is still available in front and rear sump format in x chassis and soarer. the latest models available have drive by wire. This is horrible, avoid if possible. Its not harder to wire in, but throttle response isn't as good, and your throttle body options are limited. 2JZ-GTE The 2JZ-GTE is a 3 litre inline 6 making between 280-320 hp and 320 ft/lbs. they can be divided into two groups, JDM, and USDM. There are several differences between the two. JDM 2JZ recieved ceramic CT20 twin turbo's, less aggressive cams, and 440cc injectors. Because of this the japanese version produce only 280 hp. The USDM version recieved twin stainless CT20B turbo's, 550cc injectors, and a mildly more aggressive cam, bumping power to 320hp, and 320ft/lbs. these motors are nearly indestructable. Its common practice to run 800hp stock block/cams/ valvetrain. With a bottom end designed by cosworth, and a head designed and tuned by yamaha, you'd be hard pressed to find a more foolproof design. 2JZ were available in both front and rear sump configurations. Front sumps come from Aristo, and rear sump come from supra. 2JZ-GTE VVTi Exactly the same in all respects as the normal 2JZ-GTE except with the addition of variable valve timing. This is the most boring of my explanations, I guess it should be noted that the power and torque curves were bumped up slightly, and again, like the 1JZ-GTE VVTi, BEWARE the Drive by wire!!! 2JZ-GE 3 litres, 10.5:1 compression, forged internals, distributor ignition with external coil. 220 hp, 209 ft/lbs doesn't do much with bolt-ons, but does well as an NA-T setup. found in lots of cars stateside and in Japanese cars too. front sump is in x chassis, gs300, and crown. rear sump is found in sc300, supra, and soarer. 2JZ-GE VVTi Again 3 litres, 10.5:1 compression, non forged internals in most, earlier versions got leftover forged internals. does well in NA-T format, although power is limited by the ring lands and head studs. luckily, GTE internals are readily available and are compatible with all GE's without modification. Power actually went down to 212hp, and torque is substantially better in the lower rpm's, though peak numbers didn't change. These are available in 98 and up GS300, SC300, and IS300. 1.5JZ Alright, this is not a factory motor, this is a Frankenstein of sorts. It happens when you put a 1JZ-GTE head on the 2JZ Block, whether that be GE or GTE. basically, the 1JZ has 2.5 litres of displacement vs the 2JZ's 3 litres. The 2JZ internals are stronger(VVTi not included), and since the factory 1JZ ecu allows 7400 rpm, vs 2jz's stock (and very conservative) 6500, you get a higher revving bigger displacement engine with stronger internals and the ability to spool the turbo faster. If you build one with an early GE bottom end, you also get a huge bump in compression, which makes for a beastly motor on the cheap. you might be asking "but why not just buy a 2J?" Well, everyone makes mistakes, and sometimes engines blow up, and sometimes you really want to find a cheap replacement block. well' blocks are cheaper than full motors, and 2JZ are more common here in the states. also, back in the day, 1JZ were more common and had a much larger aftermarket. It was appealing to use the ECU and head that had all the aftermarket support and the block that gave it grunt. So, if you find yourself in that predicament, it's an idea worth entertaining. Last point of attention. TRANSMISSIONS. I won't cover auto's. Last I checked, we aren't sissies. The only six speed options are Getrag V160, and V161's, the differences are in the gear ratio. If you run one of these, you need a rear end in the 3.11 to 3.27 range. Any higher than that, and you'll hate life. 1st gear will be so short you can't use it. These trans are VERY expensive, but Indestructible. We're talking 1200 hp drag launches won't kill it. great option if you have the $$$$. Five speeds are: W55: found factory in IS300's. Made of glass. 250hp max. People have had trouble with them on stock GE power. factory IS300 flywheels are dual mass POS. they weigh in the 40 lb range, and aren't resurface able. Don't waste the time on anything from an IS Aside from the motor. Trust me, My IS300 is my track car. W58: Essentially the same as the W55, but without being made of glass. still, max power is about 350hp. in a really light car. These are found in SC300, MKIII supra NA and MKIV supra NA. flywheels and bell housing will come from MKIV supra NA, and its generally a very nice shifting trans, and extremely reliable within reasonable power. R154: The boss hoss of Toyota 5 speeds. Good to 800hp on a good rebuild or in generally good condition. Clutch can come from JDM 1JZ cars, or from the MKIII Supra Turbo(yes with the 7M). Flywheel is a JDM special. has to come from a 1JZ equipped car. Lots of aftermarket support for this trans. Bell housing must always come from a JDM 1JZ equipped cars. These transmissions shift horribly. Marlin Crawler makes lots of upgrades to make it bearable. Any parts you need I recommend Driftmotion.com They have the best customer service ever, and they KNOW Toyota's. Aaron is the guy to talk to. He's very helpful, and can answer any questions you might have. If anything here is incomplete, or there are still more questions, Ask them. I'm happy to answer and edit this post to make it right.

Deep returns means it goes deep into the pods, rather than just having a half inch or so lip. Makes for a cleaner look, but really i prefer to avoid dash caps altogether because i can nearly always tell they're there. Have you tried fiberglassing the dash and recovering it with undercoating or similar? Looks much better imo.

The speed hut gauges are programmable, so they can be used with the factory sender with little issue. Im planning to get their fuel, coolant temp, tach, and speedo for my is300 track car. If i run into issue ill be sure to post.

there is a cardboard panel that goes over the entire trunk area. my suggestion is to make a template out of a cardboard box, and then cut that out of 1/8" plywood or masonite...

I believe any s30 dash will fit, also the s13 240sx dash has been made to fit along with the z32 dash.