Avernier

No exhaust in cabin EVER. And i have the shittiest seals in existence. Slightly noisy, but not so bad when theres carpet in the car.

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk242/97dimedrop/DFE92F1A-0BEC-4F7E-8108-E95497E62B22-6302-00000532CCBB6917_zps47fc8415.mp4 Quickie

My battery is in the back as well, though not in those wedge shaped compartments. I ran 8 gauge wire and have had zero issues. I used to run a braille 21lb race battery, but have since moved to a 25 series optima since im adding stereo ac and heat.

R200 even if its longnose shouldnt break unless you put down massive power and actually hook. Z32/rb25 gearbox is a waste of time, its not as strong as an r154 and it has tons of synchro issues.

Oh and r154 gearbox, buti've been through 4 of them in my history with jz's and im working on jumping to a cd09 or bmw gear box.

It only gets loud when the wastegate cracks, which is all the time i guess. I've snapped the mustache bar twice, broken a driveshaft u joint, broke the front diff mount and strap, and snapped both axles twice in the 2-3 months its been driving. Im only on 10psi too. Im switching to s13 rear subframe in the next month. Cant wait.

Fan works fine, im going to switch to a 15 inch can when i change to the aluminum radistor, but i have yet to over heat so far. Yes, down pipe is fender exit. If i ever make the jump to gt35r, i'll run a 3 inch out the back.

Auto is smooth, good for sipping coffee and passing vettes, but not much fun imho. You'd have to convert to a 280z tach, theres a right up somewhere. I have no idea about speedo since auto's use a speed sensor instead of a cable.

You can swap in stock oil and temp sensors easily, then they work. If you have a 280, the tach works, the factory speedo cable will go right on an r154, speed difference depends on tire size. With 225/50/15 its about 5mph off at 70.

Not if you factor in the rb25 trans. Thats expensive. Unless you run a ka trans behind it, which you can do as long as you arent pushing more than 350ish hp. Those are 50$

Jz swaps are easy. Wiring and all. And it looks better IMO.

Yup. Solid mount rules.

As long as you arent cutting notches in the tubing, its not going anywhere. Im rocking 340 ish whp daily, and by daily, i mean boosting through every gear every time i take off while driving to and from wherever im going, tons of clutch kicking and drifting, lots of burnouts and soft launches. No issues, im about to jump to 18psi and see the dyno to see what it puts down. Its already scary. I dont like doing 3rd gear pulls.

I prefer 1x3 tubing, cut at a 30* angle to make the crossmember. Either end welded to angle iron that hangs from the frame rail. Two uprights, one on each side for the motor mounts to sit on. Boom. 1 hour tops, finished. \__/ like that, but with two uprights right where the slashes meet the underscore.

Easier. Building off the frame rails means the engine is too high, building off the stock mounts means the engine is too far forward or the mounts are weak. Crossmember allows you to clear the steering shaft and get the motor low and far back.

Wire the starter solenoid wire throughthe horn button. No thief is going to honk the horn when he's trying to steal the car.

^^thats good info for sure!!!

if those people had accidents, its thr fault of the organization at some level, either wrong run group, pressure from other drivers, no instruction when there should have been, something. people don't wreck on track without somebody lapsing. come to a PCA event for a nearly crash free event. or pboc, or chin, or rezoom, or anything other than scca or nasa really.

Thats because nasa runs their events like idiots. They regged 400 people for that event. We typically reg 150 and its much safer.

im also in Birmingham and build cages. We use dom, and I just did a rollbar in my z. my roll bar would not be something im interested in replicating due to the fact that I sacrificed some safety in order to be able to fit in the car with a roll bar. however, i can certainly fab one up for you if you're interested. just send me a pm and i can send you some photo's of my work, or feel free to stop by and have a look. i currently have two fully caged race 944's here you're welcome to look at.

probably similar to the blue that my last one was, or maybe toyota desert sage metallic.

My blue car had the perfect patina, this one looks too junky. Going to paint it and have it look decent. As for mounts, i think im going to just make a how too thread. Way too many people are over thinking this.

So i've owned 3 77 z's so far, the second one had a 1jz swap, toyota bbk, decent paint, stance coilovers, and nice black interior. It looked like this. I sold it for profit, and regretted it as soon as he put the money in my hand. After going through a few cars, i decided to pick up another z, and make this one nice and never sell it. So i bought this: Wheels were loaners. No engine or trans. White interior. Paint that looked and felt like sand paper. Wiring that looked like someone got happy with the dikes. 400$. So i did what i always do. Suspension first! S13 coilovers with weds racing euro mesh wheels. Then i put a 1.5jz and r154 i've been building for awhile in it. Then a bride rep bucket seat and a nardi swept spoke steering wheel and a buddy club shift knob. Then i got sick of the awful wiring problems and the leaking rusty gas tank, and did an ez wiring harness and a fuel cell with surge tank. Now that it ran well and everything functioned ok, i built a rollbar for it and ran harnesses. I've also been swapping good parts and black interior out of a parts car i have into the decent shell.

vq has some pretty terrible oiling inefficiencies. costs you rod bearings and the timing chain setup is known to have breakages.

good point, my plan was to fill the mount with jbweld then sand smooth and paint black.