zredbaron

Thanks so much for all of your efforts, Ryan! Very excited.

T-Shirts (medium) -1x Cardinal Red -1x Heather Heavy Metal Hoodie (medium) -1x Antique Cherry Red shipping to 72764 Thanks so much, Ryan / cockerstar!

Hello all! I am pleased to announce that I didn't sell the car. I remain on disability for mental health, after selling all my retirement accounts I was able to keep the car and now I am able to get by with disability benefits. Luckily my life's work, this Z car, still exists. I don't have the money to upgrade it, but I already built it and I have old some tires and gas that need to get used up. I moved to Arkansas to help my Dad with his property and for me to be with family while I try to recover my health. I have been working hard to get the Z on track again. Recently turned it by hand and performed cold compression checks. Fired right up once I flicked the pedal enough!

Where do I begin? Missed you guys. Missed myself. **** artistic words. Here's the scoop. Videos below. Sorry I have been silent. Tons of videos celbrating the NA L6. The dragon only breathes fire while the dragon boasts health. Here we be. For now. This car will be for sale. I don't know when. Get your serious ears perked up if that's you. Videos demo power and handling below. Not now. I don't know when. Next year probably. I still have dyno aspirations but have learned to not jinx myself. I've been struggling with reinventing myself, midlife crisis, blah blah. My days with cars are numbered. This is not a drill. I have an empty race seat in Montana next month. Top Gun autocross. Come out and get a ride in the passenger seat if that's you. I have broken so much drivetrain, I think we all will be proud of this little motor that would. I'll circle back with details probably, if relevant to others. For now, here is some media. Most of these links are private, because I want to include you all before I start making better media. Motivation is good. Catch me while I'm sailing. Montana media at the bottom. https://youtu.be/YhksdgKEHL8 https://youtu.be/02bMEg3KsKY https://youtu.be/eMgp4DvaSJE https://youtu.be/02bMEg3KsK The longer, enthusiast video with 2017 content if you haven't seen it: https://youtu.be/zIhQ0_njKEw Helena, Montana, Rocky Mtn Emergency Services Airport Playpark, National Guard, et al: https://youtu.be/ApuE71ddbgs The upcoming event is 8/15-16, Saturday and Sunday. Reply here or PM me or find me on FB (Mark Haag, same username icon as here). Lots of upgrades since those videos, no idea how they will work out.

Subscribing to this so I can remember to upload the English .pdf that I have to this thread. Cool gizmo. Agreed with Tony that it will match my alternator bracket perfectly. And evidently Jeff P's as well! LOL. Anyone know where to buy one nowadays?

Glad you liked it. At the time of the video: OEM Driveshaft Datsun R180, OEM carrier and stubs Datsun 4.37 Ring and Pinion, from 1980 Datsun 720 King Cab 4x4 (front R180) Quaife ATB differential Now: Aluminum driveshaft CV stubs (and outers) are American chromoly directly into the Quaife (no adapters). Different CVs now, too. (Ermish Racing 2.0 kit)

Shooting from the hip (experienced but one should always confirm the Weber charts), I think your venturis are too small, and this will give you a ton more air (and power capability). You will likely run best with a 34mm for drivability unless you have a lot of money in your head and it flows really well (36mm if so).

The above thread has a wealth of good information (and misinformation). That said, if you read the whole thing, you will likely feel very confident in what direction you need to go.

For those that aren't big on reading, I'll put this first! I'm not big on social media, so the following invite to this YouTube premiere has not been advertised anywhere online. This thread is the first online announcement. I invite you all to join me in watching my racing film (2017 memoir) this Saturday, July 13, 2019 @ 0930am PST (GST -8) on YouTube. 125++ hours editing (24 minute film). 19+ years of dedication (21 years now in 2019) 3"+ of receipts Seriously-satisfying images and sounds I don't care much if the video goes viral, but I would enjoy watching it live with those who are available. It's a major life event for me.... Cheers! I hope you can make it, and if not, I know you will enjoy it whenever you have the time. Ok. For those who like updates.... sorry it's been so long! I have delayed mostly because I'm a perfectionist and lately that results in inaction more often than activity. So it goes. I ordinarily would post pictures but I'm just not organized enough right now. Better to at least check in... Ok, so... belated update... but 2018 was a dope ass racing season! (I didn't share. I don't really do social media much. I'm starting to crawl out of my turtle shell again. Thanks for the canvas to express.) It was a wild success, even though I didn't really experience it as pleasant at the time. (Depression? Blood, sweat and tears? Same same?) I didn't win anything other than a couple man-fridge magnets in classes too small... attendance prizes in truth. I beat only one of my targeted peer benchmarks (a B Prepared 80s Corvette), but I felt like I had a few wins on several other non-timed categories. LOL Most eye appeal (usually tech inspectors missed things because of shiny vintage) Best sound (too loud for many but still top notes to a surprising high % of people that just had to say so) (credit to the legendary L6, John Coffey's R&D, and of course Joe Harlan the builder!) Most fun ("crisp horsepower," "smooth skating" (end of season), "what just happened," "now my adrenaline is up (faster driver+car)" Purist / vintage award Racecar upgrades included (photos one day when I organize offline stuff from last year): Welded frame rails Custom front frame swaybar mounting [system?] Photos one day when I organize my offline photos 2 Plates welded to both top and bottom of frame rails 2 additional plates for clamping: One plate had a long hollow finger that passes through the frame rail and conically fits into other side Long stud through all of it and holding pillow blocks at the bottom Front Brake rotors Custom aluminum driveshaft (third party vendor via MSA... anyone know? nice product.) 350/300# springs and later 400/350# springs (and a lot of rear rebound adjustments!) Racecar problems included Drivetrain ripped apart Wolf Creek CV kit: Excessive play Adapter plate loose. Retightened. Happened again. Found walleyed adapter. rebored Larger bolt, higher torque safety wire interior adapter (yes! impossible labor) safety wire exterior adapter (again, new custom bolts) safety wire driveshaft safety wire inboard adapter (diff side, still) Halfshalfts restored, CV axles are trash Axles literally developed play between the shaft and the splines (not a solid piece!?) - unacceptable! 300bhp through a 4.37 Quaiffe on 245mm Hoosiers U-joints Survived even with ATB (!) R180 rebuild #1 Play can be felt between OEM stub axle splines and Quaiffe After the rebuild, it behaved like a welded diff - spinouts caught me off guard but powersliding was way easier - I'm used to ATB! Moustache bar snapped Straight up sheared in half (!) got torque? stock halfshafts with spicer u-joints still intact (NOTE FOR BUDGET RACERS!!!) Holy R180, batman! R180 rebuild #2 New donor ring and pinion (4.37, 1982 Datsun 720 King Cab 4x4) There's a reason the Quaife is warrantied for lifetime under racing conditions! Evidently too much Loctite was the cause of the ATB behaving like a welded diff Blew my mind, and that of the AAMCO staff Quaife wins this round! Slicks died - twice Brake bias a major issue Aggressive driver a more major issue 2 bias proportioning valves installed (1 removed) Tachometer died Can only blame my younger, amateur self since I was the one whoinstalled it Season end I miss a "very high speed" autocross event in Montana (Top Gun) I literally hauled 10 hours and fly my father from out of state to attend I miss a "high speed" autocross event in Spokane, WA (Octocross) What's Next? I haven't driven my car in 2019 yet Will focus on seat time for remainder of summer Intake R&D (air horns, venturis, etc.) is still pending -- for this upcoming winter (no foreseeable overhauls for once) Fabrication nearly complete: Ermish Racing CV axle conversion (chromoly stubs and outers, no adapter plates anymore) Custom Woodward steering column upgrade Throttle cable upgrade, including a fine-idle speed adjustment cable implemented via OEM interior choke handle Rear brake line and e-brake cable repairs Rear sway bar installed for first time since 2009 Will perform hot leakdown test to confirm engine health First ever time-trial / HPDE for the car (and driver) on 8/3/19 (engine builder Joe Harlan will be an instructor on his home course, Portland Int. Raceway)

Fat fingered the reply. There are a ton of variables that will play into bogging or regressive performance. If you open up one aspect of a breathing motor, another aspect will become restrictive. Each category of restriction has completely different behavior sets both in and outside the performance envelope. A manufacturer builds a balanced system but only until every other upgrade possible is equally or complementarily upgraded does the system behave like a fully capable and balanced system again. A lopsided system will perform in a lopsided manner, even if an upgrade is present, just like with suspension. The best answer to early inquiries usually sounds a lot like "how much performance do you want to spend?"

I doubt anyone has ever regretted an aggressive cam. I sure haven't. Interesting that I sign on for the first time in too long and see Jon and Ben. Hello! LMAO

Yes I have dynoed exhaust before and after. I don't feel it is apples to apples, though. I have 13:1 compression, .565" lift cam with 324/316 duration (Sunbelts Race Cam #2), and 45mm DCOEs. I have compared 2.5" to 3" with the same cam and block, but the DCOEs were 40mm at the time. My 2.5" exhaust were MSA 6-2-1 headers and non-mandrel bends with lots of wrinkles. My 3" exhaust is from Stahl with 1 5/8" primaries (not 1 3/4"), with header collectors (3 primaries) measuring 2.5" each. I have a 20 degree merge collector that cones these two down to a single 2.5" and then flares out to 3". I have custom 3" mandrel stainless steel all the way back. This setup, including headers, merge collector, header coatings, mufflers, vband clamps and Tig welding labor cost about $5k... it's a huge investment relative to the street setup. What did this absurd investment buy me? A shit-eating grin and compliments of best sounding car at all autocross races, for starters (even 300 car fields!). "What kind of V8 ya got, bud?" I love that question, despite that I can't figure out why people think it sounds like a V8. Significantly more torque down low for sure, horsepower increase marginal. The tone now has a higher pitch when the cam has kicked in, and the idle sounds more like a popcorn machine (lopey cam) rather than a less choppy hum (smoother). Even with a radical cam, I launch my 245mm Hoosiers at about 2,000rpm and minimal pedal. I'm able to spin these tires very easily with torque. Credit to the stroker and many other details, but this was not possible with my street exhaust -- previous launches were at 3k+ rpm and significant pedal. I can't praise the impact of a merge collector enough and the mandrel bends downstream... the engine is much cleaner at changing RPMs and throttle positions. Torque is now a major asset during a race. In terms of drivability, having tuned headers (Stahl) and a merge collector really helps this car change throttle positions smoothly and therefore deliver changes in torque more smoothly. (Intake velocity stacks, venturis, etc. must also be tuned to get it to *really* sing.)

Bah! My apologies good sir. I burnt myself out trying to keep the car in working order and finishing the racing season. Tell you what... PM me and we can coordinate offline / phone call that way you aren't waiting for my presentation! No one wants that. I haven't forgotten and still plan on at least one dyno session this year with some of the data that I didn't collect last time. Evidently L6 intake data remains high on my list to contribute to the S30 community!

Nice! I've been eyeing those mods. Those are next...

Prior to my velocity stack hacks, I would have advised the 40mm venturis exclusively for drag/road racing (38mm for all else). If you are ok with the coin required to upgrade and possibly partially/fully mod your intake parts (three options), you will not be disappointed by 40mm venturis fitted with 47-49mm ID stacks. I apologize for being vague. (I want to make sure I have my notes in front of me.) My dyno date was rescheduled, not due to my schedule. So it goes. I'm not sure when the reattempt will be. I'm racing almost every weekend until October, so it might have to wait until fall. I don't remotely lack for torque or power, so it won't impact my racing as much as a throttle cable upgrade might. I've been carrying around a folder with pages of my jet settings. I need to organize it and figure out how to best present the highlighted data. I'll deliver.